Questions? - Axe Handle Length & Style

First, thank you for doing trail work. We need more like you.

For bucking work I like a 32"-34" curved haft. For trail work I like a pulaski. If I plan to use the poll much I'll choose a straight haft. If I plan to support a crosscut saw then I'll choose an axe with a long flexible handle and bring along a pocket underbucking tool.
 
Just gotta say that you don’t have to use scare quotes when referring to the author of “An Axe to Grind” as an expert. Bernie is every bit what I’d consider an expert. Lots of ideas float around about the right or better ways of doing things, but if you stick with what @Old Axeman says things will work out just fine.

I like the advice about the right tool for the job. I tend to prefer axes, they are easier to sharpen, but a good cross cut saw I’m sure is very effective.

as to the handle style, you could go with either and I’m sure your axe will work just fine for your needs. I think straight vs. curved haft isn’t as big of a difference as saw vs. axe.

glad to hear you’re clearing trails! Keep it up!
 
Thanks for everyone's input. I think I am going to go with a 32" straight handle.

The only ones that I have found with the correct eye profile and I think length are Tennessee Hickory (but can't find a reseller) or House Handle. Apparently all this stuff has gotten scarce during Covid.

It looks like I have run into another snag. House doesn't offer a straight 32" handle (at least it is not on their web page).

I also can't find anyone who carries Tennessee Hickory. JNS Tool used to but they seem to have switched to Seymour/Link which doesn't have the right eye cross section. Bailey's only carries a few Tennessee handles, none of which are on my list. Beaver-Tooth used to carry Tennessee but now they are sold out of just about everything and, like Whiskey River Trading, no phone contact. Anyone know where to get Tennessee Hickory handles?
 
The slippery slope beckons, Steve. You probably got hickory growing in your back yard. The learning curve isn’t that steep, plus you get to tool up for a new skill.

Parker
 
It looks like I have run into another snag. House doesn't offer a straight 32" handle (at least it is not on their web page).

I also can't find anyone who carries Tennessee Hickory. JNS Tool used to but they seem to have switched to Seymour/Link which doesn't have the right eye cross section. Bailey's only carries a few Tennessee handles, none of which are on my list. Beaver-Tooth used to carry Tennessee but now they are sold out of just about everything and, like Whiskey River Trading, no phone contact. Anyone know where to get Tennessee Hickory handles?

oh yes, JNS - that's who I ordered tennessee handles from before.

I don't think I've ever actually seen a 32" straight single bit axe handle. They are usually 28" or 36" which is annoying - so I've always gone with the 28" handles and they've been fine.

However, what you could do - since its a straight handle - is get a 36" handle and cut it down to the lenght you want. You could then either not have a swell OR you can add a swell. If you get a house or tennessee handle, they tend to be SUPER FAT, so you might have enough material to remove from everywhere except to the end which will leave a bit of a swell. I've done this before with a sledge handle. If you want to add a swell, there are two ways to do this. the way I've done it is cut the swell off the bottom of the handle - then remove the number of inches out of the handle that you want - then joined the swell back on with a wooden dowel and glue. I shortened a couple double bit axe handles from 36" to 28" - 30" this way. One of them worked out really well and the other was a little cocked but still fine. The better way to do it is the way that Yankee Josh has done it. Cut the handle to the length you want - then create two opposite flats to the end of the handle and add pre cut material to create the swell. He glued them on and then shaped. I don't thin he added a pin, but as far as I know it works fine. There is very little stress to the swell at the end so the connection doesn't have to be awesome. In my experience, link handles have the nicest swells - both on double bit and single bit handles. house and tennessee tend to be fat with minimal swell.
 
I don't think I've ever actually seen a 32" straight single bit axe handle. They are usually 28" or 36" which is annoying - so I've always gone with the 28" handles and they've been fine.

I actually called Tennessee today to try to find a place to get the 32" handles only to be told that these are not standard replacement handle products. However, they would be more than happy to make me 500 if needed!

The person that I spoke with mentioned Agri-supply and they appear to have the 36" curved and straight in stock locally. I suspect that these are lower grade but at least I'll get to look them over before I buy.

If Agri-Supply doesn't pan out I'll probably go with House although shipping will cost almost as much as the handle! $9-10 for 1 handle $12-13 for two.

oh yes, JNS - that's who I ordered tennessee handles from before.
BTW, JNs no longer carries Tennessee Hickory products... Has switched to Link/Seymour.

Beaver-Tooth does NOT resell for Tennessee. They haven't bought from Tennessee in 5 years.

oh yes, JNS - that's who I ordered tennessee handles from before.
However, what you could do - since its a straight handle - is get a 36" handle and cut it down to the lenght you want. You could then either not have a swell OR you can add a swell. If you get a house or tennessee handle, they tend to be SUPER FAT, so you might have enough material to remove from everywhere except to the end which will leave a bit of a swell. I've done this before with a sledge handle. If you want to add a swell, there are two ways to do this. the way I've done it is cut the swell off the bottom of the handle - then remove the number of inches out of the handle that you want - then joined the swell back on with a wooden dowel and glue. I shortened a couple double bit axe handles from 36" to 28" - 30" this way. One of them worked out really well and the other was a little cocked but still fine. The better way to do it is the way that Yankee Josh has done it. Cut the handle to the length you want - then create two opposite flats to the end of the handle and add pre cut material to create the swell. He glued them on and then shaped. I don't thin he added a pin, but as far as I know it works fine. There is very little stress to the swell at the end so the connection doesn't have to be awesome. In my experience, link handles have the nicest swells - both on double bit and single bit handles. house and tennessee tend to be fat with minimal swell.

I like the idea of cutting a section out of the end of the straight handle and then doweling the swell back on.
 
here is a double bit that I did that way. I started with a 36" full sized handle and I think this one ended up close to 28" overall. I got this one pretty straight and true and it feels good. I drilled a hole in each mating surface and then glued it all up with a dowel. I filed lengthwise grooves into the dowel so I could get a really tight fit but still allow glue to fill all surfaces. I'm sure there are much better ways to accomplish this but this seems to have worked.






also, here's my 4lb Jersey on a 28" straight link handle that I use for trail work. Love it.

 
Similarly rather than doweling the original knob back on, you can glue pieces to either side to build up a thicker swell. Also consider the possibility of making your own handle from scratch. House doesn't list them but they do sell 36" hickory boards. They're heavy as heck, though, so it works out best to buy a bunch at once to save on per-unit shipping.
 
Be aware that like a lot of their handles they do often have checked ends. With checking cut off I'm typically able to get 32"-34" handles out of them.
 
Be aware that like a lot of their handles they do often have checked ends. With checking cut off I'm typically able to get 32"-34" handles out of them.

I would "like" this, except that I don't like it. Honestly I've never had a checked handle yet, but that's good to know. I've often wondered where people with no hickory trees get hickory blanks.
 
Back
Top