Questions for some of the experienced folks (file jigs)

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I have just recently started trying to forge blades. I started with just playing with hot steel on an anvil to learn how it moves and reacts to me as I work it into shapes about 6 months ago. Now, making a knife shaped object is easy as pie, but my shoddy hammer control is really messing up my bevels. Until I get proficient at hammering in the bevels, I have set up a file jig to do a little stock removal when I get to that point. Heres my question: How do you deal with the curvy bits? When I start filing, it looks like the belly of the blade will change my angles because it sticks out further. Is there a way to overcome this, or does this technique only really work or straighter knives. The knife blank that I made the other day is pretty curvy, and I really want to finish it!!

Pics of my current predicament will follow. Thanks for helping!!
 
If keeping the grind line straight, then yes the bevel will change angles. If a consistant ange is desired then the grind line will follow the edge.


-Xander
 
Forgive me for sounding dumb here. The consistent angle is elusive. The basic file jig I built doesn't seam to allow me to make my grind line follow the edge on this one. I will fire up the forge and make a blank that is less curvy just so I can get a good first knife. I am putting the finishing touches on the jig right now, and pics will be here soon. I would really like to know if there is anything I could do to improve my set up.
 
jig.jpg


This is what Im working with. Made of salvaged everything. total cost, $8!!
 
Well I think you have found one of the more difficult areas of knife making. If you have a distal taper it can be very difficult to get your bevels even. Jigs work best of blades that are straight and the same thickness all the way down the spine. Even then the belly can be difficult to get an even flow. I have seen a jig then Dan Westland makes that will accomplish this but only on non tapered blades. Also you have found that recurve blades are tough on a good day. Maybe try a straighter blade first and save this one for a couple down the road. But then if you never challenge yourself you will become stagnant.

I wish there was an easy answer to your question but there really is not. At least I have not found an "easy" fix. It takes practice. Using the file you can remove material at a slower and more controlled rate. This way you can make slight adjustments to to your bevels. If I am in doubt I will coat my blade with a sharpy to see where I am contacting the bevels. This way I can see when I make a true flat pass and where I need press a little harder or let up a bit. It just takes practice, I know it is hard to her but it really does. I used to take me several hours to draw file even a smallish blade. I can now do it in less than 30 minutes for most blades. But I can do a lot more on the grinder too. So just keep working on it and it will come in time.

Yea I know it took an awful lot if type to say that huh.
 
This is one of the reasons I don't recomend jigs for filing. Your eyes are a better guide.
 
That's what I was worried about! I saw these things on line and I was like "I need this!!" Then I spent the time to build it and finally stopped to think about it... It seams really impractical. Thank you guys for the info. Maybe I will use it for something one day. I will stick to forging the bevels. It so much quicker if I can do it right!!
 
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