Questions for the maker

Some pictures of my previous work with W2 and Hamon, I don't know enough to sound like an expert, but my approach with my chosen materials is on a more organic level. I try and establish a relationship as silly as that sounds. I like to understand the metals from a working relationship, because in the end. Book knowledge is useless without practical application.

Technical knowledge is extremely important, but my style of learning is to get a basic understanding, figure things out on my own. If I have questions or I run into problems I either work through them on my own or seek a reference. I usually bounce back and forth between these two learning styles but the spatial/Tactile learning is always the main mode.


Quenching the W2 Blades, Photo courtesy of @prom52


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W2 with Hamon!!



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Hi Chris,

Preferring the lanyard hole centered top-to-bottom vs up in the corner is a personal thing that I may have mentioned a time or six in side conversation but I don't think I ever asked why. The pics below are borrowed from one of your threads and the older knives seem to have centered lanyard holes and the newer ones have the lanyard hole up in the corner. Is there a functional benefit a user would get or does this make the knife making process easier .. why did they migrate? :D

Also curious if other OKT fans have preferences one way or the other.

Thanks
Jerry

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Warrior108 said:
Hi Chris,

Preferring the lanyard hole centered top-to-bottom vs up in the corner is a personal thing that I may have mentioned a time or six in side conversation but I don't think I ever asked why. The pics below are borrowed from one of your threads and the older knives seem to have centered lanyard holes and the newer ones have the lanyard hole up in the corner. Is there a functional benefit a user would get or does this make the knife making process easier .. why did they migrate? :D

Also curious if other OKT fans have preferences one way or the other.

Thanks
Jerry

CCXNxtzl.jpg


OlEANRkl.jpg


DSC00065_zps7obotkaz.jpg~original


34203209322_c6c856c9a2_k-jpg.702977


CFCommandoApachePost2-vi.jpg


DSC00334_zpsrgnooyxs.jpg~original
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Jerry,

It was a combination of functionality and asthetics, I personaly do not see the point of a lanyard tube on most knives except for the ones that you are going to be swinging I.E. choppers, machetes etc. When it was explained to me by someone the purpose other than retention in the hand when swinging a blade and used mostly as an extension of the handle to draw from the sheath or grab from the pinky, it made more sense to me to place it at the top half of the handle where your pinky would come to rest in a closed grip, also I feel it places it more out of the way when not using it for this purpose if one did still have a lanyard through the hole.


Astheticly speaking it was a decsision to steer more away from the Fiddleback layout of things to distinguish my style more.


I hope this gives you the answer you where seeking and explains my thought process behind it more.
 
Personally, I never use lanyards. I've tried 3-4 times on a handful of different knives. They just get in my way, no matter what size of knife. I ended up giving up on them. These days, I prefer lanyard holes centered like Jerry does, but even though I don't use them I do appreciate the aesthetic they offer, especially some of those carbon fiber/ micarta/ g10 ones. I find that even the highly placed ones on Chris' knives look damn good, despite my normal preference.
 
I am the same way, and the only knife I really like a lanyard on is a Swiss army knife. Choppers for security only if other people are nearby, otherwise be smart and take a break if you can hold on to the tool. No added value for me on smaller fixed blades.

I do like the lanyard tube being present on a knife though oddly enough. Centered or offset does not really matter to me, but aesthetically I think Chris has them in a good spot on his current knives with the types of tubes he uses and style if handles. Tied lanyards should hang pretty similar either way
 
You know how it doesn't serve any function to hold the lock open on a Griptilian and mindlessly swing the blade back and forth .. just playing around? Well, I don't like or use lanyards either (maybeee once in a great while, depending on the knife) but I do like to get a pinch grip on a fixed blade by a centered lanyard hole and swing it back and forth.

In some cases you could use that centered lanyard hole to change grips on the knife. But if it's up in the corner then you can't get a good grip on it and you'd probably slip off and drop the knife.
 
Warrior108 said:
You know how it doesn't serve any function to hold the lock open on a Griptilian and mindlessly swing the blade back and forth .. just playing around? Well, I don't like or use lanyards either (maybeee once in a great while, depending on the knife) but I do like to get a pinch grip on a fixed blade by a centered lanyard hole and swing it back and forth.

In some cases you could use that centered lanyard hole to change grips on the knife. But if it's up in the corner then you can't get a good grip on it and you'd probably slip off and drop the knife.
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Sorry Jerry I have to admit you lost me on this one.
 
Chris, a simple question, perhaps, and possibly one that’s been discussed already elsewhere, but I am curious what drew you to CPM 154 as it seems to be the steel you primarily use. Obviously it is an excellent steel, but then again so are a number of other powdered supersteels and non-stainless tool steels.
 
Apocryphiliac said:
Chris, a simple question, perhaps, and possibly one that’s been discussed already elsewhere, but I am curious what drew you to CPM 154 as it seems to be the steel you primarily use. Obviously it is an excellent steel, but then again so are a number of other powdered supersteels and non-stainless tool steels.
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I chose CPM154 for the quality, performance, durabilty and the traits it has for I the maker to bring a quality, affordable, and user friendly product to you.
It is also an American Made Steel!

I have become the most familiar and comfortable with this steel, but I have and will continue branch out more as I am always open to exploring and learning.

You are correct there are other great steels offered by Crucible, I like the qualities of 3v and S35vn but it they cost more are not as widley available. It is more expensive to machine those two steels. I have played with both these steels and plan on getting more aquainted with the 3v in the future. I am confident in my S35vn heat treat, I like 1095, W2, all the and am confident with those two as well but the demand is on stainless steels in the size range and purpose of knife I currently make and offer.
IMO CPM154 and S35vn are the best stainless steels on the market...

When I start to branch outside my current size or purpose range, like choppers, large bowies, or other niche specialty knives will see some other steels besides CPM154 being utilized.
 
CPM154 also takes a nicer finish/polish than S35VN (while being only marginally less tough/wear resistant) - and let’s face it, OKTs aren’t only aiming to be functional (cutting! not prying) tools but visually stunning as well... :oops:
It’s also easier to strop/sharpen. It’s a very nicely balanced stainless that also has a lot of visual appeal.
 
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Oyster said:
CPM154 also takes a nicer finish/polish than S35VN (while being only marginally less tough/wear resistant) - and let’s face it, OKTs aren’t only aiming to be functional tools but visually stunning as well... :oops:
It’s also easier to strop/sharpen. It’s a very nicely balanced stainless that also has a lot of visual appeal.
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Those are all very true statements, thank you for adding!:D:thumbsup:
 
Osprey Knife & Tool said:
I chose CPM154 for the quality, performance, durabilty and the traits it has for I the maker to bring a quality, affordable, and user friendly product to you.
It is also an American Made Steel!

I have become the most familiar and comfortable with this steel, but I have and will continue branch out more as I am always open to exploring and learning.

You are correct there are other great steels offered by Crucible, I like the qualities of 3v and S35vn but it they cost more are not as widley available. It is more expensive to machine those two steels. I have played with both these steels and plan on getting more aquainted with the 3v in the future. I am confident in my S35vn heat treat, I like 1095, W2, all the and am confident with those two as well but the demand is on stainless steels in the size range and purpose of knife I currently make and offer.
IMO CPM154 and S35vn are the best stainless steels on the market...

When I start to branch outside my current size or purpose range, like choppers, large bowies, or other niche specialty knives will see some other steels besides CPM154 being utilized.
Click to expand...
That’s interesting, I did not realize the benefits of availability and cost that CPM 154 has. I will be honest, I have a hard time telling CPM 154, S35VN and others like M390 and Elmax apart in actual use. They are all great. I think that perhaps I have been able to get a keener edge with S35, but I am not an expert sharpener by any means, so it’s more likely a fluke or luck in that particular case than anything scientific.

I will say that I have never used W2, but seeing your results with hamons I would love to own a ranger or something larger (or even a smaller blade, tbh) in W2 from you.
 
Oyster said:
CPM154 also takes a nicer finish/polish than S35VN (while being only marginally less tough/wear resistant) - and let’s face it, OKTs aren’t only aiming to be functional (cutting! not prying) tools but visually stunning as well... :oops:
It’s also easier to strop/sharpen. It’s a very nicely balanced stainless that also has a lot of visual appeal.
Click to expand...
Nice! That is true about the visual appeal and very interesting, thanks for chiming in.
 
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