Questions from a Noob 1st Knife, Belt Sander- Thanks!

B

bnole

Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
28
Hi all
I have just become interested in knifemaking and I want to try my first project. I am thinking of trying a design along the lines of a fixed blade drop point design maybe 9" or so in length. Maybe similar to a RAT design, in 1095?

I don't have any experience in knifemaking, but I am willing to take my time and rely on the experience of those here and other resources to guide me through the process.

My questions are:
  1. Does this sound like a good first project idea?
  2. How about 1095 as far as workability and heat treating ease?
  3. I don't have a belt sander and since I am not sure if I will really take to this hobby long term, I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on one. Would the one below from Harbor Freight be adequate for the occasional project? Sorry, can't get the pic to post, it is model 34951-9VGA.

1" Belt and 5" Disc Combination Sander

Perfect for Custom Work
Remove the back plate on the belt sander and finish all types of curves and nonstandard shapes. With the back plate in place, you can apply pressure for fast stock removal.


Powerful 1/3 horsepower motor
5'' x 5'' table tilts to 45º

110 volts; Belt speed: 3450 FPM; Disc speed: 3450 RPM; Sanding belt size: 1'' x 30''



ITEM 34951-9VGA

$69.99


I really appreciate any input. This seems like a very rewarding and fun hobby, I look forward to getting into it.

Thanks
BNole
 
I'm just starting out too and went with a similar sander from HF. Mine was only the 1x30" belt and cost $40. Print this coupon out and go to one of their stores and get 20% off your sander. That's what I did.

coupon.jpg
 
A lot of knifemakers got their start shaping their blades entirely with a file. That's how I got my start. So if you end up with just about any kind of grinder, you're already ahead of the curve.

The grinder I've got right now is something I cobbled together in the early '80's. I used a double shaft motor off a tool and cutter grinder. One shaft drives a common shaft running a 2x72 over a 9" contact wheel on the left end and a satin finish wheel on the right end. The other motor shaft drives a 1x42 over a 1" contact wheel. My total outlay for the parts ran $110, and I think now I could have done it cheaper. The parts came from LEA Abrasive, but I'm reasonably certain they don't have it anymore. The next grinder I build will use a mold-on neoprene castor wheel for a contact wheel. Considerably cheaper than a wheel from Cosmos (hey, I can't help it- I'm Scottish).

One guy at work has just turned out a matching set of three knives. He has for years just assembled knives, but finally took the jump into making the knives from scratch. He did all the work on a little $49 Chinese 1x30 grinder. The quality is top notch, and he showed me some things I haven't tried on my knives.

Personally, I would start with O1. It's cheap, very forgiving, and very easy to work. Especially if you file your blade to shape. You can get it from just about anybody. I know that Travers Tool has it on sale right now. They have it in precision ground flat stock, so that should make it easy to get started.

Here's their web address:
www.travers.com


****
My questions are:

[*]Does this sound like a good first project idea?
[*]How about 1095 as far as workability and heat treating ease?
[*]I don't have a belt sander and since I am not sure if I will really take to this hobby long term, I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on one. Would the one below from Harbor Freight be adequate for the occasional project? Sorry, can't get the pic to post, it is model 34951-9VGA.
 
If you are going to perform your own heat treating; you would be better served by using 1080 steel. It is much less complicated to treat and is no less a good blade steel.

Fred
 
Thanks everyone for the replies so far!:D I found another belt/disk sander from HF. It is 3/4 hp & has a 4" belt an a 6" disk for $79 ITEM 93981-1VGA. With the 20% coupon (thanks SYVMN!) less than $60! Has anyone used a similar sander?

I appreciate the advice on the steels, I have been doing more reading on threads here and was beginning to think that either 1080 or O1 would be a better choice than 1095. I want to go the full route, including heat treating, and need forgiveness.;)

What do y'all think about the choice of design for a first knife. I really want a tough outdoor knife & this seems like it would be comparitively less difficult with the flat grind on the blade.

Anyway, thanks again, I appreciate the input.
 
Last edited:
As far as blade designs go, I think a drop point hunter with a front finger groove instead of a fabricated and fitted finger guard would be a good first. Especially if you make it a full tang (slab sides, metal showing all around the grips).
At the risk of being accused of showmanship, take a look at my primitive effort at a website. Maybe it will give some ideas.

www.countryroadscreations.blogspot.com
 
Hey I have the 4in bel/disk combo from harbor freight. It works well, But soon I will replace the moster cause its not very powerfull, I can bog it down with moderate pressure.
 
The guys are right on about the 1080/1084. I suggest the Craftsman 2x42 grinder over any from Harbor Freight. They run about 139, sometimes less on sale, but are much better machines for what we do than the 1" grinders. Trugrit has the 2x42 belts.
 
I've been looking around at grinders (KMG specifically), and can't seem to determine what HP motor would be appropriate. The 1.5 HP would be nice since it runs off 110V, but I'm not sure if that is enough power. Any suggestions on what HP motor to choose?
 
I started out with a 1x30 and a 4x24. You can use them and files, then work your way up to a 2x72. But stay away from 1095. Start with 1075-80 or O-1. A whole lot easier to heat treat than 1095. I know from past experience, I learned the hard way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top