Questions regarding strop and cork belts

KnuckleDownKnives

KnuckleDownKnives

Time to make the doughnuts..
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Feb 12, 2015
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So I just got my very first shipment of belts in and a few things occurred to me as I now have them in my possession. These are 2x72 belts

One, which side of a leather strop do you use?

Two, I bought one each of the Hermes 400, 800, and 1000 cork belts. Are they supposed to look like a 20 grit belt? They look coarser than the bluefire 36 grit Norton's I just got.
 
So how does these cork belts compare to a 400,800,1000 grit aluminum oxide belt?


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Use the smooth side of the leather.

IMO the cork belts cut alot slower than a similar grit AO belt. They more polish than cut. Yes, break them in well according to instructions.
 
For everyone that suggests "breaking in" the cork belts, what is the reason behind this? I use cork belts on every single knife I make and have never found the need to break them in. Getting a uniform scratch pattern is much easier with a fresh as opposed to a broken in cork belt in my opinion. Just wondering if I'm missing something here.
Blessings,
Joshua
 
I use a lot of cork belts and I like the 400 and 600 grit the best. I now break them in with a piece of polished round bar which I hold against them for only two or three minutes and am careful not to take the edges off. This works best for me. I do not use compound on them anymore and get a better scratch pattern in my opinion. You guys can try it both ways because if you don't like my method you can break them in some more. I also use an ultra fine Scotchbrite belt after. Larry
 
i think the break in is to make the grits the same height, so none are taller than the others.they would leave deeper scratches. regular belts do cut faster than cork, but the cork belt will last for years. i have been using mine for over a year. on regular sandpaper, the grit is held to the belt with the red colored adhesive. on a cork belt, the grits you see are just bits of cork, the grit is in the adhesive.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Cork belts are for polishing and finishing. You need to break them in well for 5-10 minutes to get the best finish from them. They should leave no "scratch pattern" at all once broken in.

On the strop - http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/640503-Make-a-leather-strop
Click to expand...

I was under the impression they left a fine scratch pattern. Maybe it just polished my previous scotch-brite finish, but the last two blades I used it on has very fine lines. I broke mine in for at least 10 minutes.
 
Steve Johson pioneered the use of cork belts, he breaks them in with a flat stock and loads them with green chrome.

I started promoting using a round bar for break in and it is much less messy and really levels out the grit. You can use the belts with or without compound.


It all depends on what you want to do.
 
Thank you all very much for the comments, and Stacy for the link for the strop.

I'm feeling much better now about the corks. I decided to get them after reading a bunch of post recommending them for finishing, and as you can imagine if you have seen them for the first time and saw how coarse they look and wondering how a 1000 grit finish was going to come from something coarser looking than broom finished concrete.....
 
i had the same reaction first time i got one in the mail. " they sent 36 grit by accident !!" they will leave a scratch pattern, but it looks different than regular belts. you will notice a 400 grit cork finish shows a much clearer reflection than a 400 aluminum oxide.
 
I just wanted to point out that Steven R. Johnson in his video about making a sub-hilt fighter advises to break in a cork belt really well and loads his with compound...but please look at his knives. Most are very highly polished and he uses a cork belt that is loaded with compound and might as well have never had any abrasive on it. If you are going for a satin finish then you might want to use a belt without compound (but broken in ) and finish with a fine Scotchbrite. Just my opinion again. Larry
 
woodster said:
i had the same reaction first time i got one in the mail. " they sent 36 grit by accident !!" they will leave a scratch pattern, but it looks different than regular belts. you will notice a 400 grit cork finish shows a much clearer reflection than a 400 aluminum oxide.
Click to expand...

John, I looked at your website and love your knives. The guard fit on them is outstanding. Are you a machinist by trade? I'm sorry to go off topic but just had to compliment you. Larry
 
I may be way far out on this but I believe Steve Johnson used only a fine grit cork belt that he worked down and then used the green compound to help get a polished finish on his blades. I don't believe he recommended scalping other cork belts and then using them . BUT there was a bunch of conversation way back and what I believe can out of the forum at that time was that scalping the cork belts did help in their use and the application with the belt moving of polishing compound was certainly needed unless you went to belt grease. You will find that without the compound or belt grease the belts will seal off and not cut. whereas with they seem to go on forever. Boy they can be terrible messy and that usually doesn't bother me. Scalping a course belt like 220 won't polish a blade but may help you get there. Bythe way I don't believe Steve is now available for comments.
Frank
Frank
 
Try grit sells cork belts with no grit and they are inexpensive. ( I think under $8). Anyone try using one of those with compound instead of breaking in one of the abrasive cork belts and loading It with compound?
 
LARRYZ10 said:
John, I looked at your website and love your knives. The guard fit on them is outstanding. Are you a machinist by trade? I'm sorry to go off topic but just had to compliment you. Larry
Click to expand...
wow, thanks larry ! not a machinist, but i have the small grizzly mill. it works good for the guard slots and finger curves.
 
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