Quick question on scandi sharpening

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Mar 22, 2006
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Was sharoening up my 1 of my mora 510's today as it came with the bottom half of the blade fairly dull sharpend it up in about a minute on a 400 than 600 grit diamond plate finished on a strop...Shaving sharp no prob...but from laying the bevel flat on the stones they get pretty scratched up..out of the gate I think I might have been giving too much pressure but than eased up..but it seems giving the dynamic of the grind that scratching up the bevel is just going to be a part of sharpening..is this correct thinking?
 
Did you start drinking this early in the morning? The first half of your post is barely comprehendable. Then again, It could just be too early for me, and my brain don't work yet.
You -->
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Me -->
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LOL!

Anyways, to answer your question, yes, that is just the dynamic of the grind. It shouldn't be a problem if it is a user. However, if it does bother you, you can put a very slight second bevel on there, and I mean very slight, by lifting your blade like half a degree. This won't hardly change the edge geometry much, but it will keep your bevel looking "pretty".

I did the latter for a knife I just got done making because my dad complains about it when I show him my knives. But, once it starts getting used, the bevel will get scratched up, but no worries because it is supposed to be a user for my wife. Plus once you get a patina going, it usually masks the scratches pretty well.
 
Sorry..guess I got to start proof reading these things...Have a 2 year old who happens to be very interested in typing whenever I'm on the computer...always makes it interesting....also I'm drunk...JK LOL
 
Follow that up with a water stone or some 1500 grit or greater sandpaper set on a very flat surface and it will polish it out unless it's really scratched up. I usually have my bevels fairly polished out:thumbup:

I have one of the 4000 grit pocket waterstones from Lee Valley that removes most of the scratches and then follow that up with a strop with the chrome compound on it.:thumbup:
 
Yup...the bevel gets scratched up and it looks like crap.:grumpy:
But, remember, it's about the "go" and not the "show".
 
I strop my moras laying the bevel on chrome loaded leather and the scratches polish out pretty good. Mac
 
Follow that up with a water stone or some 1500 grit or greater sandpaper set on a very flat surface and it will polish it out unless it's really scratched up. I usually have my bevels fairly polished out:thumbup:

+1 on a higher grit sandpaper and a strop loaded with polishing compound. I've been diligently working on a BRKT Woodland Special and I've got it nearly to a mirror polish with just 1000 grit sandpaper and a strop from kniveplus:
http://www.knivesplus.com/KP-STROP8-STROPBLOCK.html
 
I like to polish those big bevels too. I would rather them have a patina but sharpening romoves it.
Large extra fine stone and even larger strop with aggressive dressing makes it pretty quick.
 
I strop my moras laying the bevel on chrome loaded leather and the scratches polish out pretty good. Mac

Same here, whether I use sandpaper, finishing with 600-800 grit or a or diamond plate, a couple minutes on a loaded strop takes out most of the scratches. And normally I keep my edge touched up on the strop so after awhile I have a mirror finish with out even trying.
 
Yeah, that's what happens with Scandi grinds, unless you want to spend time on polishing out the scratches every time. But who cares if a Mora has scratches on it - they're just about the ugliest usable knives in the entire universe, so it's not like the scratches make it any uglier than it already is. :p
 
I don't really care that the scratches are there all my knives are users.... just wanted to make sure it wasn't the result of bad technique.
 
Thats how scandi grinds work. You can polish the bevels when you`re done sharpening, But that gets old real quick. The scratches don`t hurt anything.
 
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