Quick question...

Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
66
Okay, so I drill holes in my tang and my scales. They're nice and straight from the pillar drill. All is aligned. The scales, the pins, the tang, and the stars in the sky.

Wonderful yeah?

So why the hell is it that I have to go rounding down my pinstock on the grinder EVERY SINGLE TIME?!

Why if I drill a 1/4" hole do the 1/4" brass/stainless/copper pins not fit natively into the goddamn holes I drilled? It seems as though when I buy 1/4" pinstock, I'm not actually buying it in 1/4". It seems larger.

Is it just me or does this piss anyone else the hell off? Is there a way around this or do I just keep pounding my head in frustration against the wall?
 
Wait, let me amend that... I just realized something...

So the pinstock fits perfectly through the holes in the tang... but never the handle material... even though I'm using the same damn drill bit. In order to make it fit through the handle material I have to round the pinstock down. So why the hell does my drill make a hole in the steel that fits the pins perfectly... but not on the handles? This is the same in my experience with all types of wood, micarta, g10, liner material, etc. I just don't get it and it pisses me off to no end. I threw a hammer. I needed that hammer. And now it's lost in the woods.

Can you tell I'm frustrated? I mean, I've always gotten the handles to attach without fail... but the process through which I do it is extremely time consuming and even more annoying.
 
When you drill a hole in wood or micarta the material will push away from the bit instead of cut and when you withdraw the bit the hole closes slightly.
 
As you drill the tang you have to apply a lot of downward pressure, which causes the drill bit to wobble, and the hole that gets drilled is larger than the drill bit. I push hard enough for my tang holes that the shape is almost like a triangle and quite a bit larger than the drill bit.

But when you drill through the handle material, you aren't using nearly as much downward pressure, and are able to make a more precise that is closer to the size of the drill bit.

With that explained, a 1/4" pin will not fit into a 1/4" hole. Unless specified as precision ground, pin stock is very rarely exactly what it claims to be. You may be drilling a .250" hole and using a .252" pin and that little bit of extra width makes a big difference. To fix this, start using a number F drill bit for your 1/4" holes and you won't ever have that problem again. Or you could just wallow out the handle material a bit with the drill bit to make it wider and let the epoxy fill in the tiny gaps. And with this, you should be roughing up your pins on a 60 grit belt anyways so epoxy will adhere. I do this to all pins when I get them. Just chuck them in a drill and run it on a slack belt to rough it up. It also makes them a hair smaller.
 
This is a family-friendly part of the forum. The mods would probably appreciate it if you could ask your questions without cursing :)
 
Is it just me or does this frustrate anyone else ?


Actually no, we know better :)
This must be one of the most common questions and answers in this forum.




Even if you have a perfect precision sized round hole and shaft of the same size at .250" they will be a press fit.

As mentioned wood will close up again even tighter behind the drill


Look at a decimal equivalent chart and go to a drill slightly larger - probably a # series drill or dowel pin sizes will do it for you.

.002" or .003" is the thickness of a hair, but even .001" will give that clearance in steel.


The search terms are clearance fit, press fit, driving fit.
 
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Years ago it frustrated me too. I learned the hard way, even split some handle material. Size F for 1/4" pin and #30 for a 1/8". This will ease your frustration. Single malt also recommended.
 
Years ago it frustrated me too. I learned the hard way, even split some handle material. Size F for 1/4" pin and #30 for a 1/8". This will ease your frustration. Single malt also recommended.

A double Please.
 
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