- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
Many thanks for great help and plenty of it.
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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Quick question
- Thread starter Skeletor
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2000
- Messages
- 1,522
Firkin, if youre looking for old time, non-poisinous varnishes try http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/ supposedly they are using old fashioned methods of making thier stuff, and are processing thier own flax to make thier own linseed oil.
I wonder what real 100% tung oil is like. From the article it sounds like it is similar to raw linseed oil in effect, and the hard finish we're used to is actually coming from the resins in the oil/varnish blends. But I have to say, part of me is real tempted to try blending up some home-made varnish, cooking it and all that, but then I dont think I could make enough junk to test it out on, and even then all the permutations are infinite. In one of the articles on violinvarnish.com they talked about this mythical violin varnish formula, and how in reality there was no real one varnish by the name and the amazing results associated with it could come from a million different factors (short cuts being one of them). It really helped to illustrate the impossibility of finding that perfect blend.
Though, on another note, I hear that Minwax owns Formby's (now hows that for skewing performance results). Anyways, I figure I like what Im using right now, but I suppose in the next couple of years, theyll change formulas, and Ill have to search around again.
So whats this youre saying about teak oil.
I wonder what real 100% tung oil is like. From the article it sounds like it is similar to raw linseed oil in effect, and the hard finish we're used to is actually coming from the resins in the oil/varnish blends. But I have to say, part of me is real tempted to try blending up some home-made varnish, cooking it and all that, but then I dont think I could make enough junk to test it out on, and even then all the permutations are infinite. In one of the articles on violinvarnish.com they talked about this mythical violin varnish formula, and how in reality there was no real one varnish by the name and the amazing results associated with it could come from a million different factors (short cuts being one of them). It really helped to illustrate the impossibility of finding that perfect blend.
Though, on another note, I hear that Minwax owns Formby's (now hows that for skewing performance results). Anyways, I figure I like what Im using right now, but I suppose in the next couple of years, theyll change formulas, and Ill have to search around again.
So whats this youre saying about teak oil.
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2002
- Messages
- 2,737
Thanks for link Fed.
Must admit I'm curious about the pure stuff too.
One thing is the raw stuff is about like salad oil, so there's no problem with shipping.
My impression is that raw and polymerized tung oil get harder than raw linseed oil. I'm sure that added varnish helps it get even harder, but it may be more important that varnish allows a thicker hard layer to build up on the surface.
As far as tung oil goes, it could contain most anything, the good stuff seems to be thinned linseed or tung oil. Big surprise
If I had something valuable or important I wouldn't apply a product that the manufacturer wasn't willing to reveal the ingredients. Apparently "teak oil finish" is a classic scam employed by shady contracters making decks and the like to skim a little extra.
Must admit I'm curious about the pure stuff too.
One thing is the raw stuff is about like salad oil, so there's no problem with shipping.
My impression is that raw and polymerized tung oil get harder than raw linseed oil. I'm sure that added varnish helps it get even harder, but it may be more important that varnish allows a thicker hard layer to build up on the surface.
As far as tung oil goes, it could contain most anything, the good stuff seems to be thinned linseed or tung oil. Big surprise
If I had something valuable or important I wouldn't apply a product that the manufacturer wasn't willing to reveal the ingredients. Apparently "teak oil finish" is a classic scam employed by shady contracters making decks and the like to skim a little extra.
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2003
- Messages
- 135
Thanks for all your knowledge guys. After all my research I went with the following: (somewhat old fasion and I have some time on my hands right now)
(was used on a Tomahawk handle and a khuk handle)
50% Boiled Linseed Oil / 50% Pure Gum Turpentine - Did a coat every hour for 5 hours both Friday and Saturday.
1/3 Boiled Linseed / 1/3 Turp / 1/3 Tung Oil - Did 3 coats of this yesterday.
Planning on doing another couple of coats with that mix tonight.
The question is, what should my next steps be if anything? Should I dith the Turp and go with linseed and Tung? Then just go with a couple coats of Tung to finish it off?
Thanks again guys, your suggestions and knowledge were great. Both handles look a ton better, and hopefully should last quite a bit longer now.
(was used on a Tomahawk handle and a khuk handle)
50% Boiled Linseed Oil / 50% Pure Gum Turpentine - Did a coat every hour for 5 hours both Friday and Saturday.
1/3 Boiled Linseed / 1/3 Turp / 1/3 Tung Oil - Did 3 coats of this yesterday.
Planning on doing another couple of coats with that mix tonight.
The question is, what should my next steps be if anything? Should I dith the Turp and go with linseed and Tung? Then just go with a couple coats of Tung to finish it off?
Thanks again guys, your suggestions and knowledge were great. Both handles look a ton better, and hopefully should last quite a bit longer now.