Quick review of the Kershaw Spec Bump

HoB

Joined
May 12, 2004
Messages
2,611
I have been carrying the Spec Bump exclusively for 3 weeks during my x-mas trip and thought it might be time for a quick review:

All in all I have come to love this knife. The knife feels well made and the handle ergos are great. For me a knife needs to feel right in the hand and this one does like the best of them.

The edgeholding of the new steel CPM 154 is, unsurprisingly, very good, though I would have a hard time distinguishing it from 154 CM/ATS-34. It does feel and look a little odd on the stone (but I would be hard pressed to quantify, or explain that, it almost feels powdery?), and seems to burr very little and is thus quite easy to get very sharp.

I would have like to see the belly a little further to the tip and a little more curvature in the front part of the blade, but it performs very well as it is and the straight edge with the high tip allows easy work on the cutting board without scraping you knuckles. The DLC coating of the blade is excellent and very tough. However, a sharpening stone makes short work of the coating (see below).

Which brings me to the only drawback of this knife. Disregarding what I said earlier. The factory profile of edge I would rate as poor. Another victim to the "combat blade" trend. Once properly reprofiled to something like 15 deg per side, the blade really shines and the cutting performance of the high saber grind and dramatic recurve is equally dramatic.

Of course, reprofiling of this recurve is not easy and it took me a while to get the hang of it. In the end the best way I found was with fairly wide and only gently curved slipstones standing on the small side, moving the blade with short strokes (the slipstones I have are quite short), like on an ordinary benchstone. Before, I tried holding the knife edge up and the slipstone at the proper angle, moving the stone but couldn't develop the necessary pressure for reprofiling and slipped several times over the edge of the stone which scratched up the blade coating pretty badly...oh well, its a user anyways. Once I had found the right way to do it, reprofiling was easier that I would have expected and I did not scratch the coating any further. The final sharpening of the recurved part I did on the Sharpmaker with fine and UF rods at 15 deg per side and on the edge of a leather strop (which works surprisingly well) which very satisfactory results.

The front part including the belly I sharpened on my usual benchstones and got excellent results with out a hitch. As I said, even though the steels feels a bit weired on the stone, it takes a very good edge very easily with very little burring and polishes up very nicely. Without wanting to quantify it, my experience reprofiling the edge indicates that CPM 154 doesn't have nearly the wear resistance of CPM S30V but edge holding in practice was good.

The other high point of this knife aside from the handle is the lock. I have come to really like Studlock. Very reliable, and you get an immediate visual indication of the engagement and whether there is any crud trapped. Seems to be very strong too, but to me reliability is more important than ultimate strength. I haven't tried to white knuckle it with maximum strength, but there is no slipping with medium strength or under spinewacks. Eventually I am sure the stud or the ridge in the blade that holds the Stud will break but I have no need to test when that will be. The most critical failure that this lock might undergo is the failure of the little spring that pushes the stud. But it is a stainless coil spring and I don't really expect that to fail anytime soon.

The lock is very easy to operate. Even if it doesn't allow the flashy "flicking-it-closed" like the Axis- or the Comp-lock (which wouldn't work on the Spec bump anyway because of the assisted opening) but it is easy enough to close the knife one-handed. One-handed opening is of course quite literally "a snap" because of the assisted opening. The assisted opening should, I think, have a higher initial resistance. I did have it open on me once rather unexpectedly, but it has never opened in my pocket as I feared.

Bottom line: An excellent knife that made it easily into my list of favorites and at the current price almost a bargain for what you get!
 
I will like to see how the steel is rated in the long term. I think it has possibilities as a reason to purchase.

I see it had too obtuse of a grind, a too common trait these days IMO.

What stones did you use?

The lock is a troubling aspect for me, but the knife will probably enter my to get list.

Good review. Thanks.
 
On the recurved part I used a Shapton 1000 (reprofiling) and 5000 slip stone of which I liked the 5000 so little, that I switched to the Sharpmaker.
For the front part + belly I used a Bester 700, Nonparaille blue 2500, and Naniwa Ebi 10000.

The lock is one of the best parts of the knife. Trust me, its a really nice design (the lock I mean).
 
Stud locks take a bit to get used to, but ultimately reward you. It's not easy to one hand close, though it IS possible. I do it with mini mojos but haven't tried on the spec bump for fear of embarrasment and or cuts.

Of course, the stud lock is an inverted axis lock...I can make my own stud lock on my Benchmades by holding the blade and unlocking the handle. Tricky, but I do it to amuse myself sometimes.

When I first saw the Spec Bump, the stud appeared round, which troubled me--it seemed like resistance would not be that great when locked. But on closer look in real life, it looks more like an octogon, though I'm not clear on the number of sides. The parallel surface probably provides much more resistance. If the bar actually does break out of the blade, I believe it's fairly safe to assume that either the blade has gone already or is about to...we'll leave it to Cliff to prove my wrongness here.

I wouldn't want to try it, but it seems that, as long as it initially locks into place, even if the spring then provides no more resistance, it should prove somewhat stable. The force against the stud is to the back, perpendicular to the force that it can actually travel. The actual existance of something where the spring is will provide some force to stay where it is. Lastly, the substance guard/flipper will offer some protection.

I think the biggest concern in the SD area of the knife is that this is probably the easiest for an opponent to disarm in a struggle. Case in point, stab them before it gets there. I wouldn't worry too much, however, as we're entirely blessed if Joe Average can figure out a liner lock at his leisure, much less an exotic and rare lock, and in the midst of a struggle with a knife pointed at him.
 
Is this the knife :

http://www.knivesplus.com/media/KE-1596.jpg

The blade profile looks interesting, though problematic for a lot of uses. The above picture seems to hint that it actually recurves again from the middle apex toward the tip, is this the case? Nice job on the reprofiling, I would not have wanted to do that with a stone.

-Cliff
 
Cliff, yes, that is the knife.

No it doesn't recurve again. That is only an optical illusion. From the Apex or the belly on forward the edge is perfectly straight. Its like an upward slanted Warncliffe.

AM: You are absolutely right, if the spring breaks after the stud is engaged I don't think the lock is compromised. But I doubt that is a likely scenario. I was more thinking what would happen if the spring fails and you are not paying attention and checking wether the stud actually engages and the blade close on your fingers right after you've opened it. At least you have a visual indication of the engagement of the lock unlike with the axis (well if you look on the bar from the top you can gauge pretty well how the axis lock is engaged as well). But I disagree that the stud lock is a reversed axis. Operationally it might feel very similar to a reversed axis, but it is a completely different design.
 
I don't mean to imply it was copied, not in the least. I think it, like pretty much everything from KO, is quite innovative. I just think there happen to be a lot of similarities in function.
 
I think he's referring to the trend of making knives with thick, obtuse edges that are tough and resistant to damage, but don't cut as well as thinner, more acute edges.
 
New to the forums and really enjoyed this review. I'm considering buying this knife this upcoming weekend. Not sure about the blade design as it's definitely different than what I'm used to. I'll have to reprofile the edge also, I really like the factory edge that came on the KO Leek.
 
I love the Spec Bump. I have the Newer S30V with Spider web pattern G-10 and it is my Every-other-Day-Carry that I will be alternating with my ZDP Leek in a few days.:D

I look forward to the ZDP/Titanium Spec Bump HOPEFULLY coming out soon ;)

Nothing I don't love about the Spec Bump, though. As far as the blade profile, it's still shaving sharp, which is good enough for me!

Jeremy
 
Back
Top