Quick Steel question

Thanks Lesknife.👍🏻
You are correct. I have been searching since i posted the question. I came up with the same answer.
 
I wonder if that’s why I’m having problems getting my 4 dot sharp enough to shave. Is 425M known for being harder to sharpen? In order which one of the three is easier to which is harder or are they all about the same?
 
I'll guess that of the three, 420HC is the easiest to sharpen.
From what I recall of the 440C blades using the Arkansas stones available back then ... the hardest ...I don't think I've had one with 425M.

EDITED TO ADD:
You might be having difficulty because of the original bevel.
I read somewhere here in the Buck forums, that prior to 2000/Edge 2000, Buck used an really obtuse 50 to 60 degree inclusive angle, combined with a (sometimes rounded during polishing) convex edge.
If you're going with the modern's/Edge 2000's 30 degree inclusive not convexed edge, it'll take a while to reprofile it.
(time well spent, IMHO)
 
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all three are very easy to sharpen...........with the right stones and making sure ya understand the angles. thats key. reprofile if ya can't hit the angles right and make it easier for touchups.
 
I guess i need to get my magnifying headset out because my eyes cant see that well. I was thinking of getting a Sharp Maker or the sharpener that uses those square rod like stones to help me keep a more consistent angle. I do pretty good getting most of my knives shaving sharp but the old users i restore seem to give me some problems.
Maybe I don’t want to take too much off and would have to to get it that sharp?
DN
 
Have you tried a felt tip marker on the edge while your sharpening.
That will give you an idea if your getting the angle right.
You should be able to make the ink go away evenly if you have the angle right.
 
I guess i need to get my magnifying headset out because my eyes cant see that well. I was thinking of getting a Sharp Maker or the sharpener that uses those square rod like stones to help me keep a more consistent angle. I do pretty good getting most of my knives shaving sharp but the old users i restore seem to give me some problems.
Maybe I don’t want to take too much off and would have to to get it that sharp?
DN
I like the sharpmaker for touchups, but if the knife's angles aren't close to the 20 or 15degree per side it won't help. you'll have to reprofile to a consistent angle or adjust your grip to hit the angles. no different than using a stone.

you can also send to Buck and have them sharpen to edge 2000 or I believe even keep original angles they were that are very wide and obtuse.
 
Yes i checked and wow that 50/60 degrees is really feel able if you know what i mean. I compared my 112 auto edge to it and it’s a big difference!
DN
 
What made me see the difference is i would go to cut the tape on a box i got in the mail and usually i would use a para 3 and like a razor. I started carrying my old 82 FG and same scenario and it was like a butter knife. So i gotta get a handle on sharpening these old bucks.
I may consider a spa treatment as i’m sure it will solve the problem.
DN
 
Yes i think if i send it for a spa part of that treatment is a sharpening. Not sure the cost just to sharpen it but if i send a knife it’s getting the spa lock stock and barrel
 
Yes i think if i send it for a spa part of that treatment is a sharpening. Not sure the cost just to sharpen it but if i send a knife it’s getting the spa lock stock and barrel
David, you will need to specify what you want them to do. I’ve sent in a few for just a small repair, polished and no sharpening as I prefer my own sharpened edge. Lol . some guys want cleaning and sharpening but no polishing.
 
So decided to change things up. I want to carry my 1982 110FG but the inability for me to get it sharp enough has me getting my 2017 non FG out to ride on my hip. It’s razor sharp! I’ll figure out the 82 or send it for spa and maybe 2000 edge.
 
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