Quick tips (as we think of them)

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Omega Leather Works

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Jun 13, 2007
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Read about this at another place, but it has worked so well for me, I thought I'd pass it along.

As y'all know, contact cement is almost a one shot deal when putting two pieces of leather together. I've been able to fudge a fraction of an inch here and there, but it's easier just to get it right the first time.

Sometimes when I have a welt, or something else that I'm nervous about getting the placement right on, I'll use wax paper. Place the wax paper between the two items and slowly pull it out as you focus on placement. This is especially useful with delicate skins like various snake.

Simple, but it has helped me. Hope someone finds it useful. Post away if you have another method or tip. :)
 
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If you make a really bad mistake, you can break the bond fairly easily and correct your error. Simply saturate the bond area with the thinner used with your contact cement. Wait a few seconds and just pull it apart. Let that all evaporate and start over. This advice is meant for Barge or similar chemical make up cements.

This is also why I use rubber cement for inlay placement etc. as it will pull apart fairly easily without any thinner and clean up beautifully.

Paul
 
Good stuff guys, thanks for the additions. Goes to show how adaptable craftsmen are.

Paul, you ever had problems with rubber cement where you wanted to burnish? I used rubber cement (obviously not on an inlay) on two pieces that I then went to burnish. Not good. I use Elmers, though I doubt brand makes a difference in this case.

Speaking of rubber cement, I'm going to try making a large piece of cardboard with a light coat of the stuff. I think it might work as a tool for laying my leather on for that stamping problem we were talking about. May or may not work. We'll see.
 
It works well, but it really pulled the nap hard on my first try. Figured I might get away with slapping it on my jeans to cut the adhesion, but a reusable board would be nice too if it works.
 
Anthony, I have never used Rubber cement in the area of the edges so I have not had that problem, but the same cure for this is as written above using the thinner BUT it should be very targeted application and rubbed on just enough to remove the surface cement so as to NOT alter the bond. Also the sanding in burnish prep should remove any residual cement prior to beginning the burnishing.

Paul
 
Striggy, the method you described is referred to as a "slip sheet"
That term may help in searches…
Using a slip sheet is what I'd do with an expensive, one of a kind photo print where there were no second chances.

There are two kinds of rubber cement.
Two coat and one coat.
Two coat works like contact cement… a coat on each piece, let dry, stick together.
With one coat you only put the cement on one side ( ;) ) let dry and stick together.
I think for Tal's experiment, one coat would be better… But packing tape would be easier. Less chance of the cardboard delaminating and sticking to the leather.
The plastic on the tape is stronger so the bit's of leather will "give up" first.

As for removing extra rubber cement, try rolling it off with your fingers.
Or use a piece of tape, the glue side, to get the cement to ball up and roll off.
First rub in one direction to form the ball, and then lift the little ball off.
Harder to describe than to do.

Hope it helps :)
 
Thanks guys. I've just stopped using rubber where burnishing will take place, but I'll remember your tips should I find myself in that situation again. :)
 
Quick question, what are you using in place of contact adhesive on for the leather on the welt. I use Barge for all the gluing on the sheaths I make.

I definitely notice the thin lines where the glue is.
 
I'm not sure what you're asking. I use Weldwood contact cement for welts. I don't use rubber cement for welts. I've tested the strength of Weldwood Original formula, Barge (similar results), and Weldwood Gel formula (very slightly less strength, but more than enough for me) and Rubber cement (almost no strength+ smearing). Rubber cement should be used for temporary placement, or for low/no strength applications. Contact cement can be used over rubber cement with good results, at least in my experience. Odd, but it does work.

If you are getting noticeable lines it may be that you are applying too much? Apply in thin layers. If the leather seems to absorb the cement, apply another light coat. You want to see a shiny coat after its dried. If it's not shiny it won't bond well. Too thick, you'll probably see a line.

Less is more, but you have to have enough if that makes sense.
 
Changed the title so we can add tips as they come to us.

So I have been sharpening my no.2 edge beveler (Tandy keen edge) on the edge of my strop. It's been so-so and hasn't quite kept up. In a search for a better way I came across a video on YouTube. The gentleman showed a piece of wood board that he'd glued a length of leather cord to, a thin length of dowel and a flat piece of leather (strop). With the dowel, he placed a piece of abrasive paper (micro mesh) on top and used a stropping motion to polish the beveler. I didn't have a dowel or mm paper, but I tried a length of carbon fiber rod that I have for pins and some 2500 grit wet/dry paper. The results are fantastic. Far better than the tool was out of the package.

I'm wondering if there is an easy way to get at the inside. I've heard of abrasive string (or cord) that is used for this type of sharpening need, but can't remember where I saw it for sale. As it stands I can now bevel a piece of leather unsupported (ie holding the piece of leather in my hand). It was getting to the point where I needed to press to get it to cut. I imagine good tools cut really well from new, but I'm happy that my cheapie is now doing so well.

If you haven't tried something similar, give it a shot. You have nothing to lose, only sharpness to gain. ;)
 
Hey buddy you can build your own string. Just rub some buffing compound on your own string. You can use valve grinding compound if you need more cutting. Works pretty darn good. I use to do this. Now I just use the 2x72 with vfd. I seldom ever do this though. Get em sharp and don't let them get dull. As soon as they start to drag I hit em on the edge of a buffing wheel with green scratch remover on it. Don't get em hot of course. I can go for months if not years without sharpening an edger just keeping that edge polished.
 
How do you sharpen with the 2x72?I could see a head knife, but an edger? My leather tools are lucky that I started using wood working tools first. That, and hobby sharpening knives. Aren't too many things with an edge in my house that you couldn't shave with if pressed. ;)

I just picked up my buffer that I had in storage. Might have to take some green ChromOx to the wheel and see if I can't get that head knife ridiculously sharp. It's pretty good right now, but I'm always looking for a bit more. Btw, now that I've used this vintage Tandy knife, I gotta say, it was probably a good buy. Steel stays sharp for a good while (although I strop it before every use) and it's nice, thin and slicy. I know you're really not supposed to, but I use it as a utility knife from time to time.

I'll try the string. Probably not necessary, but I don't like sharpening one side of a blade. It's like the adjustable v gouge. I don't like that I have limited access to the cutting edge, gotta figure out a way to polish the inside of the v. Again, probably not necessary, but I can't shake the feeling that there may be a burr or wire edge that I'm not addressing. I'm not ocd, but I display symptoms. :D

Oh, if anyone has a good way to sharpen the blade on a stitch groover I'm all ears. I can strop it, just wondering if someone does something different.
 
Thats how I use the 2x72 and on slow. I can run the belt off the edge and reach down in there. I've done #1s that way. Use the edge of your buffing wheel to reach down in there for the stropping.
 
Strig - I know a lot of people use a small metal pin - like the kind you can get from the hardward store - to sharpen the shiny side of the edger. It is a single bevel cutter sor sharpening and stropping the bottom side is all that is needed.

TF
 
Tried to photo the new cutting edge on the beveler. Looks like a secondary bevel in the pic, but it's very slight. I had to double check to see if the improvement was all in my head but that's not the case. It will actually cut a super tight bevel now. Before it wanted to grab and tear in a tight radius. No longer.

bp1ANdb.jpg
 
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