Quick Void Filling WIP

[RyanW]

I recently worked with some Carbon Fiber and Silver Twill with some pretty serious voids. I also run into many Natural materials with Cracks that run the full thickness of the scale. These will allow moisture and dirt to make contact with the Tang and eventually cause rust. \

Chuck from Alpha Knife Supply sent me the following directions to fill any voids.

1) Sand the handle to close to finish grit
2) Use compressed air to blow dust from voids
3) Apply small amount of CA to voids
4) Spray with accelerant
5) Wait 1-2 minutes
6) Finish sand and lightly buff
Note: If you get the CA too hot it will go soft and pull out of the voids.

I ordered some of their "Thin Odorless CA" and "Accelerant" and thought I would take a few photos of the process.

I have a piece of Buckeye Burl (Stabilized) with some pretty serious voids on a knife I am finishing up...

Here you can see what it looked like after I applied a thin coat of CA and sprayed with Accelerant

I sanded it down and you can still see some areas that need a second coat of CA

Now you can see it cleaned up with the voids filled

This is what it looked like with the first coat of Tung Oil

The finished knife...

Thanks Chuck!
Ryan

 

[Broomhead]

Does this work for cracks that go through the scale?

 

[RyanW]

It does, that is why you need the "Thin CA" this crack went all the way through the scale.

 

[Matt Markell]

Wow, that really worked well. Not even noticeable in the finished knife. Is the accelerator really needed? Or would a more generic CA glue like Gorilla Super Glue work?

Thanks for the write up :thumbup:

 

[tinwiskers]

thank you for showing this process, I have heard how to do it but never really seen it done. I have a few handles that could use this treatment. What is your typical finishing sandpaper grit?

 

[RyanW]

Wow, that really worked well. Not even noticeable in the finished knife. Is the accelerator really needed? Or would a more generic CA glue like Gorilla Super Glue work? Thanks for the write up :thumbup:

Matt, when you put CA on thick or fill a deep void it actually takes quite a while to cure. I really like using the accelerator because it makes it a quick process. If you search the intranet they say you can use windex or other similar products but it makes the CA turn white.

thank you for showing this process, I have heard how to do it but never really seen it done. I have a few handles that could use this treatment. What is your typical finishing sandpaper grit?

On my rough finish I use Oatey Abrasive Cloth (80-120 Grit?) that come is rolls. It can be found in the plumbing section of hardware stores

 

[Patrice Lemée]

Looks great Ryan, thank for sharing. :thumbup:

 

[grizzled gizzard]

Woodworkers have been using 2P-10 CA glues with their accelerant for several years. It's very good stuff, and it's easy to find.

 

[Anthony Chaney]

Those were some serious voids. I have some burl oak that I was going to put in the burn pile. I might give this a try. I wonder how it will hold up in the long term.

 

[RyanW]

Thanks Patrice and Grizz. Anthony, they were big voids. I have no doubt they will hold up to any abuse the new owner will put to it!That CA is strong stuff.

 

[Gody]

Great WIP Ryan. I´ve used this procedure myself but with an ultra thin ca called "zap a gap" and no accelerator. Works like a charm.

Brian

 

[12345678910]

Woodworkers have been using 2P-10 CA glues with their accelerant for several years. It's very good stuff, and it's easy to find.

It's really easily available in Remote control model airplane shops too.

 

[grizzled gizzard]

Thanks Count, that's good to know.

It shows people are still experiencing good results from 2P-10 on wood.

R/C airplanes use a lot of balsa. It's so dog gone porous it's hard to glue.

 

[Troop]

Thanks for posting, Ryan. Great stuff.