Quite a common problem, I presume.

B

Bjorhyn

Joined
Oct 15, 2007
Messages
13
I've been carrying the same two knives for a few years now, a Benchmade Bali-Song 42, and an Emerson Kerambit. I've never sharpened them myself, but I'd like that to change.
I know not the first thing about sharpening blades, much less a curved blade like the kerambit has. They are both 154CM, hold an edge well, and stand up to just about anything I put them through.
Any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated.
 
Welcome to Bladeforums!

Start off with a Spyderco Sharpmaker. It works well on maintenance of an edge that's not too badly dulled, and it handles serrations and curved or recurved edges easily. It comes with instructions on a DVD and we have so many people here happy with theirs that once you get started we can help you with the fine points.

The Sharpmaker is a really clever sharpening system, and once I got my knives touched up, I tried it successfully on potato peelers and nail clippers, too!
 
I looked into the Sharpmaker. Seems like an ingenious system, but unfortunately, I cannot use a flat plane on my kerambit.
And for the Bali-Song, I would have to completely re-edge the blade. One of the previous LifeSharp sessions left the blade with too little depth of the edge.
What to do about something like that?
 
The Sharpmaker is one of those things every knife owner should have ! also look at some good quality stones, dont "just get cheep ones the now" get good ones or a good one and they/it will last for a LONG time !
Its also much easier to keep a knife sharp rather than having to sharpen it, i usually strop my blades on leather with fine dimond paste or touch them up with a fine grade ceramic rod fairly often so they never need sharpened.
Id also do some practicing on an old kitchen knife or something that dosent mean or cost as much as your EKI or BM ! :thumbup:
 
You can use the Sharpmaker anyway. You don't use a flat plane on the kerambit curve, you use the edges of he triangular rods -- it sets up both ways. For the bali just use the 40 degree setting and you'll get a decent cutting edge, even if the rest of the bevel behind it isn't pretty. You can work on that with the 30 degree setting later on, little by little.

By the way, you can also turn the Sharpmaker over and lay the rods in the grooves there and use them as a benchstone, too.
 
Thank you much for all of your input. The Sharpmaker is more of an investment than I previously thought.
 
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