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Radial mosaic camp knife "pic"

B . Buxton

B . Buxton

Joined
Jul 8, 2001
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Radial mosaic damascus, made from 1084 & 15n20. Oal 12 7/8"
w/ 7 3/4" blade. guard, escushion and pommel are all made from a radial billet, handle material is buckeye burl. The feel and balance on this knife is great, balance point just behind the guard. This little feller is a chopping son of a gun.
handle gives it an antique look , don't you think??

thanks,
Bill
 
That is some fantastic damascus. Is difference you can see in the colors of the etch from differential HT?
 
beautiful knife, my friend, and a pretty danged cool radial..... hope ya took notes on that one....
 
Very cool Blade Bill! I love the pattern of the damascus and the overall flow of the whole knife...very nice indeed! great work dude:)
 
Wow is that purdy!!! Excellent fit and finish, combination of material, and especilly nice Damascus. Spectacular.

Clint
 
Boy I really feel inadequate now, great looking knife and I love the differential HT.
 
Great looking blade. Nice lines through out the hole knife.

I would like to see one with stainless fittings and a darker wood,just to show off the blade more. Its something special.
 
Wow Bill that's truly fine, I love the combination of the steel and handle, and the escutcheon with its nice spiral. Is the brown color a function of the lighting or did you use something to color the damascus? That sure is a nice piece, shows off the damascus beautifully.

Dave
 
thanks again guys,

Dave, it doesn't show brown at all on my puter, does it look brown to anyone else. Because it shouldn't, nothing done to the steel but mirror sanded, etched and buffed.

Bill
 
Very well thought out design and well executed. Love the pattern in the steel. Would you give the run down on how to make the radials? Inquiring minds need to know.
 
Sure Bruce,

First thing is to go ahead and weld up your billet to the number of desired layers, then I cut the billet in half, I take each piece and butterfly it useing the press, now you have 4 pieces in a triangle shape, cube them back together and weld useing your squareing dies, reduce that billet down to the desired size usually 3 or 4 welding heats will do it, anneal the billet and then slot cut useing a chopsaw,this is where it gets kind of tricky, all your steel thicknesses should be fairly close to the same,in between the slots and accross the top and bottom of the billet, now bring to welding heat and open up real slowly, gently flattening as you go, but remember to do this at welding heats and slow or your liable to tear the billet in the slot cuts. Once you get it all opened up forge in your blade and proceed like you would with any forged blade. When opening the slots use a dull chisel to barely open then something a little wider the next time and then the edge of the anvil to open to a 90 degree opening, you really have to go hot and slow or all your time will be lost with a ripped billet.
Sorry but I'm not the best at explaining things, but this is how I do it, and I know from experience about lost time, with ripped billets.

Hope this helps

Bill
 
Bill Thanks for sharing. I want to give it a go some time, I really like that pattern. Again, beautiful knife.
 
"BEAUTIFUL" wouldn't even come close to how good that knife looks! If that knife was a woman she wouldn't even be safe on the street!
 
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