Railroad spikes...

Osbourn

Osbourn

Joined
Jun 27, 1999
Messages
804
I recently acquired some railroad spikes that I was thinking of turning into knives. This shouldn't be a problem, even with the charcoal forge that I've been using. My problem is in the heat treating. What are 19th century RR spikes made of? I know they have a high silica level, and fairly high carbon, but that's it. Also, what could it be laminated with? With the new gas forge, we should be able to get hot enough, and I can't wait to try to forge laminates. Any input here is welcome.

[This message has been edited by Osbourn (edited 02 September 1999).]
 
It a rare thing to find RR spikes that have much carbon in them. The ones that I had tested several years ago contained only .20-.35 carbon. As for heat treating, they seem to get about as good as they can when quenched in a "sulficant" quench.
If you are going to use them as part of a laminate, I would be inclined to treat them as the low carbon side of your mix.
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey

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Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"


 
The one I spark tested showed as a lot higher than I expected. I compared it to a piece of weldable steel bought from Scottys, and it had about twice the spark, with a fork. That was only one, though, and I know I got a good sampling. Going to be quite a grab-bag. I think I'll learn more while working them. I was also thinking of maybe laminating them with some 5160 or some tool steel. Anything else I'd have to order. What is a "sulphicant" quench? I'm not familiar with the term.


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Oz

"I didn't think it was THAT sharp!"
 
I have a bunch of old ones also that showed very good sparks on the spark test. I have been quenching them in water using an interupted quench. 5 seconds in, 5 seconds out, then in until cool. Seems to work well. My file skates great after they are cool. I draw them at 375F. I haven't sharpened them as the ones I have done have been for show only.
Hope this helps,
Ravenclaw
 
The spikes I have used had a kind of elongated diamond on the head and the letters HC or WHC. These tested locally at 4% Carbon. They make a really tough novelty knife (not much on edge holding), but they make a Great small tomahawk head for throwing. I think they would work well in a pattern welded steel, as Ed said, use as the lowcarbon element in the mix.

Good luck on the experiment.

GaryB
 
Some years ago I saw such a knife where the spike had been twisted, forged and mirror polished.You were still able to see that it was a spike, and the knife as such was very beautiful.
What did you have in mind ?
 
I think we saw the same blade, P.K. I was thinking of something very similar, with a kind of a drop point design. Maybe a skinner. I like the idea of leaving the back of the spike alone and just polishing it so it's origins are still evident. I was thinking of doing a twist or two, to delineate blade from handle, with a leather and wire wrap for the handle. I've had them for awhile now, so I've had plenty of time to brainstorm on them. I was also thinking of doing a skinner with the blade at a 45 degree angle to the handle, bent towards the cutting edge. I'd have to play with it awhile, but I think that could be useful. My partner wants to make some dirks so bad his teeth ache, so I'm sure at least one of them will become a dirk. I'll scan and post whatever we make. I'm still looking forward to our first laminate attempt, though. That's where I think they'll be truly useful. As the low carbon portion of the mix, as reccomended previously. I like the throwing axe idea, too.
I can see now that I'm going to need more spikes.

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Oz

"I didn't think it was THAT sharp!"
 
I had some new '98 spikes tested here and they assured me they were 1050 steel and tested as is 50Rc. I have been using spikes for axes and knife and fork sets for about 10 yrs. You can forge them out to about 14"-20" Being careful not to burn them. Then edge quench in beeswax and oven temper at 375 dgrs. for one hr. Should give you neighboring 52-56Rc. Bearclaw

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Thanks, Bearclaw. Where did you get circa 98 spikes from? What did they cost, and is that source still available? They're just a great medium, and I want to play with them a lot more.

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Oz

"When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."
- Henry J. Kaiser
 
I got them curtesy of a local R&R supply in Houston, Tx. Actually they only cost my asking, some strange looks, and my going out to a site where they were replacing some tracks. Ask around & be sure to tell them what you will be doing with the spikes & I'm sure they will let you have some out of curiosity. Bearclaw

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Hello all,

I’m not a knifemaker but I’ve been curious about knives made from RR spikes since I saw one a year ago at an antiques swap meet, while furniture hunting. Same as the one PK Hansen and Oz have described -- twisted twice, forged drop pt, and nicely polished, but clearly indicating its original form. Definitely novelty, maybe nice pprweight. Should’ve bought it then but didn’t.

I haven’t seen such spikes since then locally, or on the internet. So I’m wondering -- speaking strictly as a lousy know-nothing-about-knifemaking consumer! -- do any of you all sell these? Esp since more makers besides you all here also probably forge RR spikes, I’m surprised they aren’t popular (... maybe not “tactical” enough...?). Thanks --

Glen
 
Storyville, As a full time bladesmith/knifemaker I use Spikes quite often. Normally I go for function over looks, so I generally don't do a high polish on spike knives and forks. Most folks here in Texas seem to like the smooth black forge & anvil look. I sell my set (Knife & fork) for $75 at the shows here. They average 16" overall, but some are shorter/longer, thats what makes them custom and unique. You can contact me @ bearoates@aol.com if you are interested in them. Bearclaw

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One of my knife annuals has an article on making knives from railroad spikes, where the author used RR spikes marked 'HC' on the head, which denoted 'high carbon'.
 
I received this reply from Ron Hembrook a few months ago......I hope it helps.
Ron has made quite a few blades from railroad spikes as more of a novelty than anything else.

CLWilkins

On Railroad spikes its honestly a shot in the dark with each one. Most contain a lot of Iron and scrap steel, problem is you don't know how much of each element. I found the best have been ones with writing on
ends. I researched some thru Chicago Northwestern R/R and found out that there all made from scrap Steel-Iron. I have had
best sucess heat treating as such. Heat to 1400-1450deg. quench in a heavy salt brine. They harden to about 50Rc. Some require oil quench, some straight water, some don't harden at all.
Most R/R spike knives are made for collectors and don't get used. I hope
this helps. http://www.hembrook.com/
 
look on the head of the spike if it has HC stamped on it it is a high carbon steel although it will get hard it is not suitable for a using knife
 
I'll try the ones with writing on them first, and save the ones with no writing for things like hatchets and when I need some low-carbon steel. My new job makes it so I can only forge on the weekends, and the hurricane kind of got in the way lately. The forge will be up and running again in about two weeks, so I'll let everyone know how things go then.
Thanks again for all the input, it's been very helpful.

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Oz

"When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."
- Henry J. Kaiser
 
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