Raised spring with blade open

sometimes these things are a lesson in leave well enough alone. once upon a time i had a gec 15 spear where the blade was just a bit proud to the point where if you run your finger on the spine along the blade well, it would catch the tip of the blade. So i applied for advice here in the modding thread, and since i do enjoy dabbling with knife modding; no hesitation with a high polish burr on the foredom dremel to the kick. it was just a little bit of material taken off but it results in the spring sinking in a little. I let it go cheap cause it bothered me. Now these days, i have several 15s where the spring is a bit sunken in, in all positions.
 
ea42 said:
Looks like they forgot to grind the spring to the proper length, it appears to be too long. hard to say without seeing a pic of the entire knife with the blade open. If that's the case you may be able to file a little bit off the back square right at the end of the blade back where it drops down. This will basically accomplish the same thing as shortening the spring. You should be able to reach that area if you open the blade halfway assuming that you have a cam tang on that knife. This will only work if the spring or back square are cut at a bit of an inward angle. If they're both basically squared off it won't work.

With that said I'm not sure you'd be able to take enough off to have the spring completely drop without bottoming the parts out, it's quite proud there.

Eric
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Modoc ED said:
This might help to follow Eric's ea42 ea42 instructions
View attachment 2781371
View attachment 2781373
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Combining these two makes a lot of sense. Not sure when it would ever be a good idea to alter the spring. Seems like if I can find a narrow enough file or similar setup with sandpaper I could remove a tiny bit at a time on the "back square" and keep testing. It's easy to see each blade has a polished down section where stamping leaves a slight raised area. That would be the only part making contact so that's the spot to wear down bit by bit.
 
mrknife said:
sometimes these things are a lesson in leave well enough alone. once upon a time i had a gec 15 spear where the blade was just a bit proud to the point where if you run your finger on the spine along the blade well, it would catch the tip of the blade. So i applied for advice here in the modding thread, and since i do enjoy dabbling with knife modding; no hesitation with a high polish burr on the foredom dremel to the kick. it was just a little bit of material taken off but it results in the spring sinking in a little. I let it go cheap cause it bothered me. Now these days, i have several 15s where the spring is a bit sunken in, in all positions.
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I've had this issue with too many knives. Bought a few cheapies to test it on, but the "kick" (from the above diagram, which is GREAT by the way) is the part to wear away a tiny bit at a time. Fixed all of them. Once I figured this out I could also see where several of them had clearly been factory touched on the belt sander. They were rough flats that needed a gently rounding to correct sharp edges. Definitely something to learn on a knife you won't mind fudging up the first time if you over do it.
 
Maximumbob54 said:
I've had this issue with too many knives. Bought a few cheapies to test it on, but the "kick" (from the above diagram, which is GREAT by the way) is the part to wear away a tiny bit at a time. Fixed all of them. Once I figured this out I could also see where several of them had clearly been factory touched on the belt sander. They were rough flats that needed a gently rounding to correct sharp edges. Definitely something to learn on a knife you won't mind fudging up the first time if you over do it.
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eh the gecs were cheaper back in the day, but i once attempted a delete on a brand new gec 48. my prior experience was 2 junk store 2 bladed trappers. good thing there are more experienced members ready to save my project attempts 😂
 
It ain't right, but it's a somewhat common error for Case, and others, unfortunately. I wouldn't send that example to Case, but I have had hit and miss repairs from Case in the past. For one not so bad, I grind the spring flush, or nearly flush, with the blade open. Remove the sharp edges from the spring as best I can with 600 grit sandpaper, and from the exposed edges on the liners when the spring is below flush, then repolish.
 
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