Ramblings of a nutter and the beginning of a hunt. (loto pics, a vid)

[Fonly]

Hey everyone,

So, six years ago I had began a search for that on knife we all seem to be looking for. I had gone through anything and everything that companies had to offer that peaked my interest.

I did however get to the point that I had one knife that I kept picking up on the way out the door, I never labeled it "that knife" but everything about it I liked.*

Here she was, the cold steel master hunter in CV in her glory days.

I've gone through all kinds of blade styles and designs, but that has been the mainstay of what I use and look for. it has stood the test of time, and aside from the handle, is still a very functional knife.

now, it has changed its appearance over the years, but for the better in my eyes.

To me a knife has to be a few things:
1. comfy (i could care less what steel it uses, it has to be comfortable)
2. blade geometry, 4-6", no more then 3/16" thick (full flat with a secondary bevel, or straight convex)
3. appealing (there needs to be something about it that catches my eye)
4. have a decent sheath, kydex, zytel, what ever.



Here is a little video explaining it a bit better.

http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n179/fonly_2006/?action=view&current=DSCF1281.mp4


So here is my dilemma, I have a perfectly designed knife, except for the handle.

And a few extra photos.

Anyways, all I have come up with is a Fallkniven F1, handle material is what I'm looking for, blade steel and geometry will work, sheath is iffy, however a kydex can be rigged up pretty quick,

Any sugestions? lol

 

[PropThePolecat]

Definitely the F1, its got everything you're looking for. Its a great knife, as im sure you have heard. I find the handle very ergonomic but YMMV. The standard sheath is practical and slim, but a kydex looks a hell of a lot better. Ive swapped the standard sheath on both my F1 and A1 for kydex and SpecOps.

 

[baldtaco-II]

I'd add the Linder Super Edge 2 to your shortlist. Linder used to make knives for Fällkniven before Fällkniven started having their manufacturing done in Japan with VG10. Sure Linder makes some crap but I think their good stuff is great. I had an Super Edge that I liked very much although it wasn't a 2. I thought it had great cutting power for a blade that's nearly 5mm. Your vid said that you refined the Master Hunter's edge a bit over time, well in that case I don't think you'll find any disappointment here. The Master Hunter is one of my all time favourites and I got my Linder cutting brilliantly. Edge retention is pretty darn impressive too. I found the handle to be excellent and I certainly preferred it to my F1 handle, although I do like the rubber handle on my Boker more. I think my Boker would by out of the running though because the blade is a very different style, it's quite a bit smaller, and the handle is more particular in nature – and it looks to me like you had a go a thinning that MH handle down a bit. I could be wrong about that last bit though. Anyway, this isn't an ideal vid 'cos there's lots of foreign speak with the knife out of view, but there are some good caps to be had of the knife and sheath here.

 

[tknife]

I'd get a Micarta handle put on that bad boy and keep it! The Master Hunter in Carbon V was always one of my favorite knives. I can't remember the company but I know there are folks out there who can put new grips on it.

 

[Mike L.]

I agree with tknife. You already have a knife that works great, and is broken-in. A new handle would be a great option.

 

[sicily02]

Fonly,

I am going to tell you something. Because of you and what you posted in that kabar potbelly thread a few weeks back I was really impressed with that knife design and the way the knife in that video you posted worked.

I had the good fortune to chatt with forum member gunknifenut here at Blade forums after you posted that video. In that talk that gunknifenut and I had it went great, he sent me his potbelly knife. I had the chance to see it in person and all that stuff, I just sent his potbelly knife back out to him yesterday. I even made my own version of it but with a little longer blade and I did take out that small little choil at the plunge line area. I just this morning got to use it since I finished it up yesterday after noon. I love that design but the handle is what makes the knife so awesome. Sooooooo
since you mention your master hunter knife and it needs a new handle If you want. I would be interested in helping with that if you are interested. I have a idea and well if you contact me maybe you might like what my thoughts are.
contact me at tacklebreeden@yahoo.com if you are interested.

Chat with you later,

Bryan

 

[KiljoyKutlery]

I'd get a Micarta handle put on that bad boy and keep it! The Master Hunter in Carbon V was always one of my favorite knives. I can't remember the company but I know there are folks out there who can put new grips on it.

Fonly,
I agree with your sentiments on the Master Hunter. I have owned something like six different MH's, and some had custom handles, I personally like the factory handle, but it, like all Cold Steel hidden tangs, starts to slip and slide after a while. This annoys the hell outta me.
I have a San Mai version now with one of my cord wrapped handles..its not my best work in this department...I sold a Carbon version not to long ago to another member, that had a hemp wrap...that was sweet.
I also had a SanMai version that had been re handled by Bark River with a finger guard and black linen micarta...it IS SWEET! I think Blais owns it still.
I would take Brian up on the offer...and ask for a peak at his NEW POTBELLY design, and maybe my design as well....they are BEASTS! But thats another thread all together.
Anyway...keep that puppy..and have Brian rehandle it for you...or hell, send it to me, and I will give you a cool leather and cord wrapped handle...

 

[Ultraman]

Beautiful first pic.

Having had an F1 and comparing to your photos and requirements, I don't think getting an F1 will make things better. The handle of the F1 is small for some, and if you can keep using the MH until it no longer functions well or just rehandle it, I suspect this will be better. The Fallkniven F1 is a good knife, but from what I see getting a replacement - even an F1 - may not be needed. JMHO.

 

[Wandering_About]

I'd say get the knife you have rehandled, or have one of the good custom makers around here make you up something to your specs. There are some makers that are very good about making a knife right to your liking for very reasonable prices. I think I've seen one of them posting around here, not sure I remember who he is off the top of my head though

Almost a year ago I had a custom maker build me up a knife to my specs, and while this particular maker's prices were a bit higher than some guys I could have gone with, I have not bought another knife since (so it's ended up saving me money!). Finally worked out all the bugs in my preferences and Iz Turley did a fine job of making it up for me.

 

[Fonly]

Wow, thank you for all the replies guys.

Rehandling the knife would work well, I just need to figure out a way to do it and keep the full handle without an exposed tang, its hard finding a knife that doesn't stick to my hands in the -40 and colder we have up here. thats the biggest issue at the time.


Sicily, we will be in contact, at work at the moment, but I will shoot you an e-mail tonight.

 

[KiljoyKutlery]

Wow, thank you for all the replies guys.

Rehandling the knife would work well, I just need to figure out a way to do it and keep the full handle without an exposed tang, its hard finding a knife that doesn't stick to my hands in the -40 and colder we have up here. thats the biggest issue at the time.


Sicily, we will be in contact, at work at the moment, but I will shoot you an e-mail tonight.

Fonly, no matter what handle you go with, you will need to have a hidden tang handle done up.. the Master hunters tang is to narrow to hold onto without some kind of "360" handle to give it some grip. I would not worry about an exposed tang at all.

 

[Fonly]

Fonly, no matter what handle you go with, you will need to have a hidden tang handle done up.. the Master hunters tang is to narrow to hold onto without some kind of "360" handle to give it some grip. I would not worry about an exposed tang at all.

ahh, I honestly forgot about that...

I would like to have the knife stick around a while longer.

 

[hiwa]

I would recommend the Fallkniven S1 as a good jump from the CS Master Hunter. It has that extra length over the F1 , much tougher thermorun handle , and overall right size.

I have the F1, S1, and A1 and as far as factory knives go compared to the MH , I would gravitate to the S1 unless I was going to a custom. The rear end of that handle is a little thinner , but I found no problems with it and actually prefer it.

I have the San Mai 3 Master hunter as well and find it to be an good knife , but a notch less than the Fallknivens in overall quality.

 

[Fonly]

I would recommend the Fallkniven S1 as a good jump from the CS Master Hunter. It has that extra length over the F1 , much tougher thermorun handle , and overall right size.

I have the F1, S1, and A1 and as far as factory knives go compared to the MH , I would gravitate to the S1 unless I was going to a custom. The rear end of that handle is a little thinner , but I found no problems with it and actually prefer it.

I have the San Mai 3 Master hunter as well and find it to be an good knife , but a notch less than the Fallknivens in overall quality.

Interesting, I have been looking at the S1 for a little bit now. I just wasn't sure on the geometry of the knife, sabre / 3/4 flat grind with a convex.

How would you compare the cutting ability to the MH?

 

[sicily02]

Hi all,

Fonly, Please do not take this the wrong way, but how can you handle any knife let alone steel a 40 degrees below Zero? with bare hands or any exsposed skin.
In a very short time exsposed skins starts to freeze. when I was in Alaska 20 years back I could not take my gloves off for more than just a few seconds when on Patrol while in the Marines. Taking my gloves off and then trying to get to my penis through all of the warm clothes I was wearing to piss, sucked, At -40 it was bad but at around -50, I could pee and it would freeze before hitting the ground. I never handle my knives with bare hands when it was that cold. I had at least some type of glove liner on.

That is one of the things that bugs me when I hear people say that full tangs are bad for the cold weather.
A person can not exspose skin to long. Sometimes just seconds an you can get frost bite that quick.

Again I am not trying to be a smart butt but I am still wondering, what you are doing at -40 that you can leave exsposed skin out in that weather?

Also are you Ben @ something somthing and did not leave a subject lol. If I get a e-mail and there is no subject I tend to delete them. I am still interested in possibly helping with this handle project. Put in the subject knife rehandle or Breeden knives please.

Chat with you later,

Bryan

 

[hiwa]

Interesting, I have been looking at the S1 for a little bit now. I just wasn't sure on the geometry of the knife, sabre / 3/4 flat grind with a convex.

How would you compare the cutting ability to the MH?

Sorry for the late response.

I find the Master Hunter ( any version) to be an excellent bush knife just like you did , but the full convex on the S1 just slices that much better Imo. I wish all rubber handled knives used Thermorun instead of kraton. I think it's one of the top handle materials out there. I've seen pics of them beat up after long use , but the longevity seems to be a lot better than kraton.

I don't mind swedges on my knives , and it doesn't affect what I do with the knife. Even battoning is no big deal as I'm never beating my knives to death and baton wear is a non-issue in the bush. Just grab another one. I like the sharper tip a swedge provides for those times when I need to pierce something.

Any of those sheaths that come with the S1 are good. I prefer the plastic one on this knife , although the dangler in leather is nice also ; you just have to wax it once in a while.
I know what the bush is like in our parts ( usually wet and cold) and the low maintenance of the plastic sheath is a plus. It's one knife package that requires no tweaking from the owner right out of the box.

I highly recommend handling the F1 , S1 and A1 if you can before buying if you can. The F1 is a great knife , but myself I'm usually flipping between the S1 and A1 as I like those sizes better.
The A1 is a full size knife with beefier handles and a bit more heft to it. If I was 100 kliks in the middle of the boreal with one knife only , it would be the A1. If I had an axe , it would be the S1.
If I was in your shoes , I'd fix that Master hunter handle and still get a Fallkniven. You will not regret it. Just shop around a bit for it for a good price.

 

[pitdog]

Hi all,

Fonly, Please do not take this the wrong way, but how can you handle any knife let alone steel a 40 degrees below Zero? with bare hands or any exsposed skin.
In a very short time exsposed skins starts to freeze. when I was in Alaska 20 years back I could not take my gloves off for more than just a few seconds when on Patrol while in the Marines. Taking my gloves off and then trying to get to my penis through all of the warm clothes I was wearing to piss, sucked, At -40 it was bad but at around -50, I could pee and it would freeze before hitting the ground. I never handle my knives with bare hands when it was that cold. I had at least some type of glove liner on.

That is one of the things that bugs me when I hear people say that full tangs are bad for the cold weather.
A person can not exspose skin to long. Sometimes just seconds an you can get frost bite that quick.

Again I am not trying to be a smart butt but I am still wondering, what you are doing at -40 that you can leave exsposed skin out in that weather?

Also are you Ben @ something somthing and did not leave a subject lol. If I get a e-mail and there is no subject I tend to delete them. I am still interested in possibly helping with this handle project. Put in the subject knife rehandle or Breeden knives please.

Chat with you later,

Bryan

LOL....I was just about to post the same comment and then saw you'd beat me to it !

Yeah in minus 40-50 I sure wouldn't be handling any knife with bare hands !!!!

 

[Fonly]

Hi all,

Fonly, Please do not take this the wrong way, but how can you handle any knife let alone steel a 40 degrees below Zero? with bare hands or any exsposed skin.
In a very short time exsposed skins starts to freeze. when I was in Alaska 20 years back I could not take my gloves off for more than just a few seconds when on Patrol while in the Marines. Taking my gloves off and then trying to get to my penis through all of the warm clothes I was wearing to piss, sucked, At -40 it was bad but at around -50, I could pee and it would freeze before hitting the ground. I never handle my knives with bare hands when it was that cold. I had at least some type of glove liner on.

That is one of the things that bugs me when I hear people say that full tangs are bad for the cold weather.
A person can not exspose skin to long. Sometimes just seconds an you can get frost bite that quick.

Again I am not trying to be a smart butt but I am still wondering, what you are doing at -40 that you can leave exsposed skin out in that weather?

Also are you Ben @ something somthing and did not leave a subject lol. If I get a e-mail and there is no subject I tend to delete them. I am still interested in possibly helping with this handle project. Put in the subject knife rehandle or Breeden knives please.

Chat with you later,

Bryan

Hey Bryan, Yep, that was me, and yes, I did forget a subject. :foot:

Also, the only thing I can say to the temps, being in Alaska, you would deal with a much worse -40, being that you would also deal with moisture in the air. It is much dryer here on the other side of the rockies.

And, though a lot of knife use is done with gloves on, I can't help but take them off when making fuzz sticks, or for delicate work. That or I make it into shelter when I can.

Did you need me to send another e-mail? ( I do the same, just for reference)

 

[Fonly]

LOL....I was just about to post the same comment and then saw you'd beat me to it !

Yeah in minus 40-50 I sure wouldn't be handling any knife with bare hands !!!!

I will gladly change places with you any day pit!

 

[pitdog]

I will gladly change places with you any day pit!

LOL !

Hey Fonly how about pulling a section of inner tube over the handle during the winter months. This would provide a barrier from any exposed steel and also offer a bit of emergency tinder if needed !