Randall Made knives 12-9 / 14 grind stainless field test review

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Jan 24, 2010
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I bought a stainless 12-9 / 14 Grind with a stag and leather handle for the sole purpose to see how the the stainless performed on a large Randall Made Knife under hard use. I had a couple guys email me with that question when I posted my experience with an 01 Randall 12-9, and I was curious as well. I used it as a utility knife and was surprised at how well it prepared food and processed meat for such a large knife. It is a great camp knife as it's large size make short order of big tasks and the blade design is dexterous enough for small chores. The bottom line is a well constructed large knife must be sturdy enough to withstand hard use in the unlikely event it is called upon to do so.​

This unit is made made from forged domestic 440 steel. I read a post that quoted the owner of Randall Made explaining how they determine the carbon content of the 440 stock at the time of purchase, and that actually determines whether it is 440B or 440C, and the small non forged stainless knives are ATS-34. I was impressed with the magnitude of Randall's quality control that goes into the purchase of materials.

The tang is 1/4 thick and about 5/8 high which is very heavy duty and strong enough hard use. Another great feature is how the tang goes strait through and threads to the butt cap.

The quality of the stag is first rate, as well as the dense leather in the handle. I soaked the handle in pure filtered bees wax which reduces expansion and contraction of natural materials, but does not soften leather like mineral oil. Did the same with the sheath for water protection. I noticed when I look at old knives from the WWII and Korea era, the stag and leather handles held up, that is why I selected this handle configuration. I have owned two Micarta handled knives (one 45 yr old linen, one 15 yr old canvas) that started exhibiting early stages of delaminating upon using them, and both were unused when purchased. Micarta is strong, sticky and has a secure grip in all conditions, whereas G-10 is super strong but slippery when wet or bloody and doesn't absorb shock. My observation is no handle material perfect, and that leather, stag, and stabilized wood should not be underestimated. I chopped and chopped and chopped without gloves with the stag/leather combo and never got a blister, never slipped, even when my hands were wet. I decided to test the waterproof quality of Randall's epoxy infused compressed shoe leather handle washers. I took the knife for a day in the water fly fishing, and let it sit in the river in back of my house for 45 minutes. I wiped it dry and the leather was hard as a rock. It was perfectly fine.

Randall's forged 440 stainless is tough as nails. For those like myself who believe a big knife must be tool or bearing steel because of their experience with stock removal powered stainless super steel knives chipping under the stress of heavy blows, this stainless Randall seemed put that fear to rest. I put this knife through the ringer. Took out a bunch of saplings as a warm up, and then took down and deconstructed two hard wood trees over 15 inches in circumference. I did not chop and break off, I chopped strait through each trunk and every limb. I also chopped each tree trunk in half. If the knife was gonna break, it would have. I even batoned it, avoiding the sharpened top edge of course. Worked like a champ. In the end, the blades factory edge was not dull, rolled, or chipped. I never saw anything like it. Net net net bottom line, the Randall S stamp #12 actually out performed in the field 52100, INFI, A2, and the couple CPM's I have owned and used. I was in shock.

As for a big question, 01 or S, which is superior? In my mere opinion, if one were to rely on only one knife, the 01 is extremely fatigue resistant and will most likely never fail or rust (providing you allow the blade to oxidize). On the other hand, if one one lives primarily in a saltwater environment, or cuts a lot of synthetic materials, like carpeting, hoses, etc, the the harder near corrosion proof S blades have an advantage. That it why Randall makes both, and I personally use both.

I have used two large Randall Made 12-9 knives, same model with two totally different configurations, blade material, hilt, handle material and configuration. They both performed as well as a knife possibly could. It appears as though Randall pays particular attention to the quality of the blade steels every time they order, as well as every other component of the knife. The construction and temper is second to none. It's seems that 75 plus years of making knives really does add up to getting it right consistently. Luckily I live in a rural area, because the 12-9 is basically my EDC and it gets a lot of use.




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I really like that handle with a single hilt. I wish mine didn't have the double lug hilt.
 
I really like that handle with a single hilt. I wish mine didn't have the double lug hilt.

I find double hilt offers necessary hand protection when chopping and pushing thickets away in the field. It is a better design for a big blade. I have the standard double disc type hilt on my 14 and love it.

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I have the same knife. The only difference is mine is a safe queen. I do not think I have ever seen a thread where someone took a stag handle Randall and used the crap out of it. Nice job my hat is off to you sir!
 
Great review on the Randalls, how do you like the saw teeth on the 14? Do they work well on wood? I'm thinking about getting a 14 myself for woods carry type stuff. Thanks,
 
People seem afraid to use there Randall's. No need to worry folks. They can run with the best of them.
 
Great review on the Randalls, how do you like the saw teeth on the 14? Do they work well on wood? I'm thinking about getting a 14 myself for woods carry type stuff. Thanks,


Hey there d762nato, there are battoners, I'm not really one of them. In reality, at least for my reality, there is little real need to batton in the woods, especially with a larger knife with some weight behind it. But it be can helpful in the unlikely event all you can find is larger limbs that need to be split. My point is, a saw-back ain't great for battoning and one must know if that is a big issue before you invest in one. For me it was simple, the benefits of the saw outweighed the single detriment. I want to avoid contact with thorns and other irritating plants as best I can, and the saw-back with a double hilt solves that issue like no other. After I cut thickets or brush, I use the saws teeth to grab, pick up, and throw them out my way avoiding any contact with my hands. The saw is durable on the Randall and will cut things that will not chop, a great advantage when you encounter these types of materials as it was designed for cutting your way out of a downed aircraft. Making groves for tent stakes etc is a givin. For me, living in a back woods rural area, the saw-back is great in the large #14 size. One other point, if you are in the wooded and/or a freshwater environment, I would suggest 01 tool steel as it appears immune to any stress riser possibly effectuated by the saws teeth. I would allow the 01 blade to oxidize to prevent rust (I usually process meat, deer, blood, Tabasco Sauce, etc, till it turns dark grey, just keep it in the kitchen for a week!) and you will be good to go. By the way, I beat on my 01 tool steel #14 stupid like and it is so tough is doesn't know it's not a safe queen.
 
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Thanks. Yours are sweet too. It's like we're the only ones using these sick knives. lol.
 
I hope nobody minds me bringing this thread back to life, but if you were to order one... just one/ your first one (having used both) which would you go with O1 or 440b? Thanks; beautiful knives, btw. I'm considering an 8" model 5.
 
I would never choose 0-1. It rusts like there is no tomorrow, and it loses some of its edge even sitting in a sheath a few months doing nothing (you absolutely have to oil it for any kind of storage period). It also has a bit less edge-holding. I Cerakoated my Model 18, and that barely reduces the problems I have with it. With diamond hones Carbon steels are obsolete. Also Randall's stainless is the only stainless in the market to be forged (forging stainless is out of the reach of almost all custom makers). Why not take advantage of this uniqueness?

One thing I would like to emphasize is that there is no comparison at all in chopping ability between a Model 12 and a Model 14. It is not even one to 3, it may even be one to four, for a difference in weight of maybe 7 ounces (13 vs 20 ounces)...

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In fact, although my Model 14's micarta handle fits my hand perfectly, it will barely do half as well as a Model 18 with an identical blade. This is because the fatter cylindrical handle will transmit much more force into the wood. The difference I think is almost two to one, at least 1.5 to one, even though the blade is identical in this case...

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The basic problem with the Model 14, and the Model 18, is that they are too blade-light to save energy while chopping wood. The Model 18 is borderline because of its more effective handle, but the Model 14 should be treated as a small knife mostly capable of slicing, but very tiresome to use for wood processing.

In general Randalls are well worth the money, because they have the thinnest edges among fixed blades (typically 0.020") and the steel holds up better while chopping, even compared to S30V or most other makes that also use 440 steels. Only Lile's D-2 held up as well so far. I think this due to both Randalls and Liles being hand ground on the final bevel (dull unfortunately, but at least by hand), the edge apex temper not being damaged by power tools...: This seems to me a really critical factor until you have sharpened away the power-burned steel on other knives...

Gaston
 
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Gaston, thanks so much for the insights and advice; I thought that O1 would be better (being carbon steel) but now I have cause to rethink that. I've had many carbon steel blades and can maintain them, so that wasn't a concern; additionally, the 440b that Randall uses typically gets no love on this forum (in general). However, those who have them, rave about Randalls... so I am very curious.

I love to look of that model 12--it was on my radar as well. At the moment, I favor Busse for fixed blades--yet I'm seriously considering getting on that 4 year waitlist for a Randall. Thanks for the pics and commentary00I really appreciate it. I know these things are hard to gauge, but how long does the stainless edge last if used over the course of a day--food prep, shavings for the camp fire, chopping, battoning (?), etc
 
I sharpen my Randalls to an unusually keen 12 degree per side edge, around 24 inclusive, and besides the Liles, which are much more expensive, the 440B Randalls have been the best edge-holders I have ever used while chopping wood at thin angles. Their 440B edges seem immune to rolling or chipping. I did not test the 0-1 that hard, so I cannot say how well it does, but it does appear to not be poor at least, except for dulling over time without oil on it (A-2 does better on this)...

The Model 12 in particular is more precisely made than the 18s and 14s, and has a "convex like" very slight swelling just above the edge that makes the edge indestructible, yet very fine. It is an excellent slicer for fine tasks, yet compared to any other knife the edge seems indestructible... I prefer true V edges, but the slight swelling is not excessive in this case, and it is still a true V edge, just very slightly "beefed up" without adverse consequences.

You don't have to wait 4 years: You can just order for +40% the price from a dealer that waited for you (around $1100 for a stainless 12): SJJP on Ebay is who I recommend, he always offers a "Make Offer" option and is very quick. Don't wait four years!: These are meant to be rough users and are not of such fine finish that they are worth waiting four years for... If you wait four years you will be disappointed by the uneven blade finish, although the Model 12s are better made in symmetry and crispness than the looser Model 14s and 18s... (My 18 had its blade off-centre, tilted, and even cooling curved(!!!): My 3 others Randalls were better -though the 14 was rough and incredibly blunt-pointed as well: You could initially spar with it in total safety!- but if I had waited four year for such a badly made knife as my 18 I would have been furious...)

One thing is the stainless models are often $150 more expensive: Don't cheapen out for a carbon as it stains like crazy, unless you plan on cerakoating it... Another very important thing is to avoid on the Model 12 the horrible "Commando" handle (the one with the flared buttcap): It is gross and oversized: Get the Model 12s with the finger grooves, these are thinner and correctly ergonomic for any hand.

For thin edges on big knives out of the box, there is really no other choice than Randall, and for the edge holding they are also unmatched: You will find the Busse INFI loses its fine edge much faster than 440C (maybe in a blunt state INFI can take more abuse, but a fine edge is what you should want), and that the edges are usually far less thin, so with Busse what you usually get is a blunter thicker edge knife that also loses its fine edge faster... (One typical Battle Mistress Busse I know of was 0.035", not terrible but not comparable at all to Randall)

Don't expect the Randall V edge to be sharp out of the box: It is a rough hand-applied edge that is intended to prevent the burning out of the edge temper from power tools: It is the 0.020" edge thinness that matters here, not the actual edge finish... The Randall factory edge is just a starting point for your own edge...

Gaston
 
Gaston,

Thanks again for taking the time to write--much appreciated. The finer yet tough edge is part of what draws me to Randall; since I have no problem sharpening, I too don't mind the lack of initial sharpness. Thanks too for the recommendations regarding immediate purchase--based on you experience, I'd likely go stainless (though I do love a good patina); the heftier price tag, however, gives me pause... Lots of expenses lately, and there are certain options I think I prefer. Specifically, I was looking at the model 5, 8" blade, black micarta, nickel fittings, lanyard hole... And maybe the compass. Now you have me looking at the 12 again--so, still a bit torn. In any case, stock or customized, they are beauties; I'd want to go out and use them! The Bowie I have and love is a customized TGLB--the Busse shop made the edge thinner/ better geometry and made it a clip point:
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I'm glad you had a good experience with your 12-9 #14. I ordered one back in 2005, received it in 2010, and finally took it out to use in 2013. Within about five minutes of using it to trim branches from a small sapling, none thicker than 1/2", a large chunk broke off of the blade. I shipped the knife back to Randall and they said that it had been ground to thinly. Offered to replace it with the same model, but I opted for a #17 instead. I figure it is probably the toughest of the Randall models, except for maybe the Fireman Special.

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