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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Randall model 18
- Thread starter jacko
- Start date
TY, I enjoy doing the reviews.
I've used the sawteeth for making trap parts and whatnot, not needed though really. They won't cut 550 cord, probably would if you stretched it tight across something then sawed back and forth, but whats the point in that? lol They will tear through a soda can, but might as well just use the edge. Your question did make me think of a few uses they might be good for. Sawing thicken tin cans, for making boiling pots, spear tips, etc and also scoring larger animal bones with so you can break them. First chance I get to do these tasks I'll see how it does and share the results with you.
ETA: You might be able to saw through very large diameter rope, something like the rope they use for free hanging rope cutting tests.
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2007
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- 39,071
If you are batonning hard enough to break 1/4" O1, you are doing it wrong.
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2001
- Messages
- 6,135
Not only that, but the blade would eat up a baton rather quickly. Basically, the entire top edge (teeth included) is sharpened.
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2001
- Messages
- 18,959
TAH, that knife looks much nicer with your ownership then it ever did with mine...if you're every feeling really frisky, I have one with a Model #14 blade grind as well. Mint condition, of course... 
(Well played sir, well played indeed!)
(Well played sir, well played indeed!)
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2007
- Messages
- 39,071
Have you ever had one of the all stainless ones?TAH, that knife looks much nicer with your ownership then it ever did with mine...if you're every feeling really frisky, I have one with a Model #14 blade grind as well. Mint condition, of course...
(Well played sir, well played indeed!)
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2001
- Messages
- 6,135
I know what you mean, Sheldon. The photograph of it in your book is just terrible
Peter, thanks for the compliment! :thumbup:
No worries about the strength of the 18. I had one in 5.5" and it was a quality tool. But it didn't work for me.
I found that:
Unless your hands are very large, you can forget about using the knife while the handle is wrapped with paracord.
The width of the handle also makes the guard too wide and hard to work around.
I never actually found a good use for the iconic sawteeth.
The buttcap is just too heavy in brass, it needs to be aluminum.
Handle comfort alone was enough for me to find something else. For short blades I like the Fireman, 15 or 17. For longer blades the 14 or 16 will work.
You really need to hold an 18 before you buy. Of course, if you're just collecting and not using, none of the above matters.
I found that:
Unless your hands are very large, you can forget about using the knife while the handle is wrapped with paracord.
The width of the handle also makes the guard too wide and hard to work around.
I never actually found a good use for the iconic sawteeth.
The buttcap is just too heavy in brass, it needs to be aluminum.
Handle comfort alone was enough for me to find something else. For short blades I like the Fireman, 15 or 17. For longer blades the 14 or 16 will work.
You really need to hold an 18 before you buy. Of course, if you're just collecting and not using, none of the above matters.
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2005
- Messages
- 1,320
I found it to be very heavy. I was not thrilled with mine at all. i carried it once and that was it.
The model 14 is a much more practical survival knife, thinner, lighter, stronger and no saw teeth. The handle is more comfortable and you can order Border Patrol if you don't like finger grips. You also won't freeze your hand holding it!
The model 14 is a much more practical survival knife, thinner, lighter, stronger and no saw teeth. The handle is more comfortable and you can order Border Patrol if you don't like finger grips. You also won't freeze your hand holding it!
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2001
- Messages
- 6,135
Actually, the #14 weighs 14 oz. and the #18 weighs 12-14oz. The blades on the #18 and #14 are the same 1/4" stock.
It is true that the 18 is thicker than the 14 because of the wider design of the brass guard: This is why a sheath for an 18 will have a much longer snap loop than a sheath for a 14, and so, unlike what is claimed everywhere, the sheaths are definitely not interchangeable... The brass pommel is also designed broad, for the same reason as the guard: To contain the possible paracord wrapping. In my opinion, on knurled model 18s, a narrower guard and pommel should exist as an option, but I still like the 18 the way it is...
Wrapping with paracord does make a handle for big hands, but knurling makes this optional.
When used for chopping, the confort of the 18's handle is probably on par of more with the thinner Model 14 handle. I would not be surprised if in the long run it was much more confortable for chopping than a 14, especially with paracord in place...
I have yet to test this, but I am sure the sawbacks on many Model 18s (the saws differ greatly from knife to knife) are actually quite a bit more useful on wood than is generally assumed: They are cut very sharply edged and are thus very aggressive. Also, because they have a much smaller cross-section than the full-width saw teeths usually found on other similar knives, their initial cut into wood is much easier and faster: The sawing stops at only about half an inch into the wood, but on a 2" or less diameter piece of wood, it is enough to give a weak point to more easily break the wood... The saw is sharp enough it could even finish the break by cutting the last remaining "strip" that always hangs on, without resorting to a risky chopping motion near your foot...
The argument that the Model 18 is heavy has of course been proven wrong above... It is in fact much too light because the blade is not a true 1/4" thick, but more like a 3/16" stock, and barely even that near the tip... The Model 14 I have, with the same Model 18 blade, is for its part starting out a bit thicker than my 18 near the guard, but has essentially the same problem... This means chopping power is likely low on either, although the very thin hollow grind edges do help deeper bites... This limited chopping power is a problem on 18 style blades because, saw teeth or not, they have a big continuous top grind that makes batoning less effective. The sawteeth do worsen this issue... On that point the standard clipped Bowie blade Model 14 does have an advantage, in addition to the thinner guard for carry... The clip does reduce the Bowie's batoning ability as well, but some flat surface is at least present.
A small flat area in front of the saw, even if only 1/2" long, would have helped the Model 18 design, but it was designed long before batoning ever became a common practice... The thinner 3/16" blade stock also reflects a time were even fairly large, but not huge, knives were stickers and/or slicers, but not wood choppers... The advantage they derive from that is that they still have among the thinnest big knife edges out there...
Gaston
Wrapping with paracord does make a handle for big hands, but knurling makes this optional.
When used for chopping, the confort of the 18's handle is probably on par of more with the thinner Model 14 handle. I would not be surprised if in the long run it was much more confortable for chopping than a 14, especially with paracord in place...
I have yet to test this, but I am sure the sawbacks on many Model 18s (the saws differ greatly from knife to knife) are actually quite a bit more useful on wood than is generally assumed: They are cut very sharply edged and are thus very aggressive. Also, because they have a much smaller cross-section than the full-width saw teeths usually found on other similar knives, their initial cut into wood is much easier and faster: The sawing stops at only about half an inch into the wood, but on a 2" or less diameter piece of wood, it is enough to give a weak point to more easily break the wood... The saw is sharp enough it could even finish the break by cutting the last remaining "strip" that always hangs on, without resorting to a risky chopping motion near your foot...
The argument that the Model 18 is heavy has of course been proven wrong above... It is in fact much too light because the blade is not a true 1/4" thick, but more like a 3/16" stock, and barely even that near the tip... The Model 14 I have, with the same Model 18 blade, is for its part starting out a bit thicker than my 18 near the guard, but has essentially the same problem... This means chopping power is likely low on either, although the very thin hollow grind edges do help deeper bites... This limited chopping power is a problem on 18 style blades because, saw teeth or not, they have a big continuous top grind that makes batoning less effective. The sawteeth do worsen this issue... On that point the standard clipped Bowie blade Model 14 does have an advantage, in addition to the thinner guard for carry... The clip does reduce the Bowie's batoning ability as well, but some flat surface is at least present.
A small flat area in front of the saw, even if only 1/2" long, would have helped the Model 18 design, but it was designed long before batoning ever became a common practice... The thinner 3/16" blade stock also reflects a time were even fairly large, but not huge, knives were stickers and/or slicers, but not wood choppers... The advantage they derive from that is that they still have among the thinnest big knife edges out there...
Gaston
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Say Heah Guys, I classify both of my Randall's more as save your life survival knives especially around nasty people, both my knives are the Attack Mide, so the swedge is sharp, For the bush I don't think that would be practical, Also on my # 14 I got it with a One Finger Groove Handle in O1, on the # 18, I had the handle Knurled and the Gaurd and Pommel Cap in Brass and because of the compass, but very nice match, I also got the Saw Back and it's in the Stainless Steel, I guess I could prolly still baton it, But certainly it would chew up the baton quickly, I think both are beautiful, But I still would go with my Busse Combat like my A.S.H.B.M. LE or my N.M.F.S.H. and actually anyone of my Busse Combat over my Randall's for the bush, Maybe I shouldn't of got my Randall's in the Attack Style. , ,