RAT RC-3 or BM Activator 211 for NYS woods?

The coating will protect it, but 1095 has no chrome, so it will rust easily. That being said, in my experience it's no big deal, just wipe it off if it gets wet, and oil periodically.
 
My wife caries the 210 in the woods. We both love Rats. Either way should be great for ya. I'd prefer the 210 for the extra inch or so of blade for me personally.
 
The handles are too small for myself on the RC's so that would be reason enough not to get one of those. If you have small hands ,however, they are quite good knives !!!

Have you considered one of the makers on this forums offerings such as Stomper or Koyote etc ?
 
I hear what you're saying about the custom knives, but I think I haven't grown to that level yet. Plus, I would have to have a sheath made, and would have to wait... I am sure that I am going to graduate to custom knives at some point, but for now the ones that strongly appeal to me, are also strongly unappealing to my budget.
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if you take a look at Off The Map Outfitters, you will see several great bushcrafty custom knives for around $100, ready to ship, with sheaths.

but between the two knives you asked about, i would personally take the RC-3. the BM's handle is a little too thin for my tastes, i feel that i would have a hard time controlling it when cutting wood. i have large hands though, so if you wear about a size medium glove or smaller it might be good for you.
 
It's hard to go wrong with RAT Cutlery, while I don't have an RC-3 yet (should be here first week of January), I do have an RC-4, and I am "looking after" an RC-6 that belongs with one of the company survival kits I am using, both are very well made, easy to sharpen, have very functional sheaths, and Jeff and Mike really stand behind their product with a "no quesions asked" warranty.

I don't own a Benchmade.



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gnius said:
How rust prone is 1095, really? Will I really have to oil it after every use to prevent it from rusting?
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If you leave it wet or place the blade in your sheath wet or after cutting acidic foods, you will get rust and/patina type stains on the edge. The stains only occur on the edge - thats why the coating is there.

The stains and even a bit of rust does nothing to compromise the function of the knife. When you use it, the stain gets worked off. Its really as easy as that. People get all out of whack about a little black spot on their edge and then suddenly think their knife can't cut anymore or its going to fall apart. Its not going to fall apart. The amount of rust that forms is trivial and can easily be polished back to shiny with a little stropping on 1000 grit sandpaper. I kind of enjoy the little character marks achieved during the trip, however. It reminds you of the good times later on.

When I'm using my carbon knives in the field, I don't even really worry about the staining. I just make sure that I actually use the knives. The only thing I try not to do is store them in a wet sheath overnight. I just leave the knife out of the sheath during the night. A quick wipe down of the blade with a dry cloth works fine. It works even better if you have an oily rag. I sometimes keep a small mineral-oil soaked rag in a ziplock back in one of my compartments when I want to keep my blade shiny in the field.

I hear that tough cloth works great. However, I use my knives predominately for food chores and stick with mineral oil as it is food safe.
 
I have used the RC6 KGD is lettin me borrow and I have never ahd problems with rust, its cold and wet here and no troubles yet, All I do iswipe it off on my pants.
 
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