OK, explain to me how the different heat treatment done by Ontario and RAT effects specific aspects of the 1095 blade, for example the ability to handle latteral forces (if you know what that means, that is)!
Heat treat is everything.
RAT knives, particularly RAT-7s have been known to break while batoning, especially in cold weather. This was more of a problem with the D2 models -- seems they ran a batch with a bad heat treat, but has happened with the 1095 blades as well. Personally, I've never had a 1095 Ontario (Spec-Plus knives, RAT-7, machetes) break on me. I've had them too soft, but not too brittle.
Consistent heat treat,a nd the right heat treat for the application are key. RC has this. You can take all the arguments about edge geometry, grind angles, scandi vs convex vs flat vs hollow grind, this steel vs that steel, and throw them out the window -- they mean nothing if your heat treat is wrong. A good heat treat can make a cheap piece of steel (and let's face it, 1095 is cheap steel. You don't use it because it's the best, you use it because it's the least expensive that is appropriate for the task at hand.) into a fabulous blade. Or, you can take the best steel and turn it into a piece of crap with a bad heat treat.
FACT: Ontario has been hit and miss on their heat treat, as the norm.
FACT: I heard of ONE RC blade with a heat treat problem (too soft I think) and RAT Cutlery replaced it. It was an aberration, not the norm.
And by the way, if you are not sure how to prevent corrosion on a 1095 blade, perhaps you should just go with the D2, or ask some of the other members for advise.
D2 is overrated. In fact, I'd say it's near the bottom of my list of blade steels. it tends towards hardness, and thus, brittleness. As a tool steel, it was designed for hardness and shape (edge) retention at the expense of toughness -- D3 is even more so. If seen D2 rust to complete sh*t in no time flat. A2 or O1 are better choices for knives.