Ratmandu sheath

Vassily, the color in those Copic markers you are using are analine-dye based. Which means that the colors will fade very rapidly when exposed to light. Those markers are intended for illustration work, which will be scanned and sent to print before the inks have a chance to fade. You should look into using something pigment-based if you want your work to look good and last long. I would suggest using a pigmented acrylic ink, which have the additional benefit of being waterproof. Once the ink is dry, you can coat the whole thing in matte or gloss acrylic medium. Then your work will be lighfast, waterproof, and scratch resistant. Plus acrylic inks have much more saturated, intense colors than you can get from any marker.

If you prefer to do the initial drawing with a pen, you can use a Staedtler Lumocolor marker, which is lightfast and waterproof. Then you can just fill in the colored areas with a brush and acrylic ink.

Just a friendly suggestion!
 
Good suggestions moonwilson :) You must have some higher education in the arts. Longevity was something that our professors constantly harped at us. Everytime one of us even hinted at markers one in particular would hit the roof. :p I have a big kit of those prismacolor markers that I got back in the day, its barely used. :o
 
moonwilson said:
Vassily, the color in those Copic markers you are using are analine-dye based. Which means that the colors will fade very rapidly when exposed to light. Those markers are intended for illustration work, which will be scanned and sent to print before the inks have a chance to fade. You should look into using something pigment-based if you want your work to look good and last long. I would suggest using a pigmented acrylic ink, which have the additional benefit of being waterproof. Once the ink is dry, you can coat the whole thing in matte or gloss acrylic medium. Then your work will be lighfast, waterproof, and scratch resistant. Plus acrylic inks have much more saturated, intense colors than you can get from any marker.

If you prefer to do the initial drawing with a pen, you can use a Staedtler Lumocolor marker, which is lightfast and waterproof. Then you can just fill in the colored areas with a brush and acrylic ink.

Just a friendly suggestion!
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Thank, this is good comment. I ask my local artist store, because I saw similarity between spirit based dye from Tandy and spirit based ink from COPIC, and they sad it will be OK. I have acrylic paints and inc, but does it penetrate leather same way as alcohol based ink does? It is best scratch protection if it penetrates leather few millimeters deep.

The other question may be you know the answer.

I use very successfully GAC900 medium to acrylic paint for fabric (one you have to iron at the end) - I paint some T-shirts and it looks like nothing gets it, after many, many washing cycles it stay as it was at the beginning. I am wondering if something similar may exist for leather or may be I may use same GAC900 somehow. Do you know?

This will be gust great, because nothing can beat modern acrylic paints, if there is some leather medium it will be way more possibilities to decorate it.

Thanks, Vassili.

P.S. What can you say about Fiebing's Leather dye? Is it pigment based or analin?
 
mike biz said:
That looks like a Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum). I'm a biology geek, so please excuse my need to identify everything. Such is what dorks do.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I thought it is Chinese...

On a side not, just wondering why you are asking for excuse when you expose that you know more then others?

It is pretty strange thing I notice in US teen culture that kids who are doing best what they suppose to do - learn and shows better thinking are leveled down but others who instead demonstrates laziness and stupidity. Back in my school time it was vise versa - it was stupid and lazy kids who suppose to be ashamed! Now it is not hard to do simple extrapolation and see what this will result in. I think it may bite in the nearest future pretty hard. Can you imagine Albert Einstein growing up in environment where he is called dork, gig etc when best any must achive is wild party, because humans are party animals? And this mentality is all around in movies, shows, cartoons etc... And how many minds were wasted just because it is hard to stand pressure not being cool, especially in that age.

Well... Sorry for off topic...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
nozh2002 said:
Thank, this is good comment. I ask my local artist store, because I saw similarity between spirit based dye from Tandy and spirit based ink from COPIC, and they sad it will be OK. I have acrylic paints and inc, but does it penetrate leather same way as alcohol based ink does? It is best scratch protection if it penetrates leather few millimeters deep.

The other question may be you know the answer.

I use very successfully GAC900 medium to acrylic paint for fabric (one you have to iron at the end) - I paint some T-shirts and it looks like nothing gets it, after many, many washing cycles it stay as it was at the beginning. I am wondering if something similar may exist for leather or may be I may use same GAC900 somehow. Do you know?

This will be gust great, because nothing can beat modern acrylic paints, if there is some leather medium it will be way more possibilities to decorate it.

Thanks, Vassili.

P.S. What can you say about Fiebing's Leather dye? Is it pigment based or analin?
Click to expand...

I've got some answers, hmmmmmm :rolleyes:
 
OK, I did some researches. Of course COPIC is as any dye has poor lightfastness from artist point of view. From other hand this Fiebing's is also dye, and so has same or similar lightfastness. I was suggested in art shop to try jacquard airbrush color as pigment based acrylic suitable for leather.

I think I will try it and see, however COPIC from my piont of view should not be worse then leather dye.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Your point of view not widthstanding, Copic colors and leather dye are two different animals. Why choose all these fancy paints that arent meant for a medium like leather when you could simply put leather dye in a pen and go to town? Theres also acrylic paints that are specifically formulated to bond better with leather.

Leather is an imperfect medium, some soak up liquid like a sponge, some will resist, some will do a little of each on the same square foot.

Leather dye can be applied with a brush, sponge, quill pen, well, just about any way that you can with ink. The desired effect is what dictates the tool. Every color he used on that sheath is available in a leather dye, and yes leather dye is very lightfast. Fading comes very slowly, even in direct sunlight.

Acrylics can be diluted to gain a wash effect, and to allow it to penetrate the leather a bit. I dont favor acrylics because they mostly sit on top of the leather and dont age very gracefully. Cracking is a big issue. Same goes with acrylic finishes, they seal the leather and dont allow it to breath, and you cant put conditioner on a sealed sheath that has gotten wet.

As far as everything else goes about his sheathmaking, the natural talent is there, all he needs is some technical tutoring and there might be quite the crafter hiding in that gruff Russian exterior. :) The skip stitch intriques me, unraveling could be a real issue if one stitch gets cut. The square backing is also interesting, I wonder where the inspiration on that comes from.

Remember folks, go to a leather store for your stuff, they know what they are talking about, and the stuff they carry is for leather, not paper or canvas. You will spend far less in the long run.
 
As usual Dwayne, your knowledge is incredible and inspiring. I would expect that this being the way you make a living, you should know what you are talking about, but being that you so freely offer advice, and time (sheathmaking tutorial), you truly are a wonderous person. The reason this is REALLY amazing, is because it may mean someone starting up their own business of leather work, just from following your instructions.

I guess I am saying thank you for being willing to teach anyone who will listen, even if it means creating possible competition. :thumbup: :)
 
Many Many thanks bro! :) I am truly humbled. Just as soon as I get down and out about something you Rats bring me out of my funk. :D
 
Nice advice, Dwayne. One of these days soon, I'm going to make myself a leather sheath. Already have a small drill press. Just need to buy some supplies and give it a shot.
 
moonwilson said:
Vassily, the color in those Copic markers you are using are analine-dye based. Which means that the colors will fade very rapidly when exposed to light. Those markers are intended for illustration work, which will be scanned and sent to print before the inks have a chance to fade. You should look into using something pigment-based if you want your work to look good and last long. I would suggest using a pigmented acrylic ink, which have the additional benefit of being waterproof. Once the ink is dry, you can coat the whole thing in matte or gloss acrylic medium. Then your work will be lighfast, waterproof, and scratch resistant. Plus acrylic inks have much more saturated, intense colors than you can get from any marker.

If you prefer to do the initial drawing with a pen, you can use a Staedtler Lumocolor marker, which is lightfast and waterproof. Then you can just fill in the colored areas with a brush and acrylic ink.

Just a friendly suggestion!
Click to expand...

OK, pigment based colors need GAC900 medium and heatset. However this will be paint on srface of leather which will scratch easy especially if you have it in your pocket or on under closes. It works well on fabric, because it is easy to penetrate, it is not clear how it will work on leather as well as how heatset will affect leather.

I will try acrilic with heat-set, but I think COPIC is prefferable solution so far. In general also because lightfastness is not very important for ornaments and if it fades a bit - not a big deal for sheath.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I guess for your purposes fading isnt an issue, but for those like me, HECK NO! If there is any chance that my work will fade out in a little bit of time I wont even think about using that stuff. It doesnt made sense to do all that work just to watch it fade away. Now, if your justifying the expenditure on those COPIC pens then I totally understand, spending that much money on something that wont work on leather would be just a little frustrating
 
This thread is a little funny, if Vassili *really* isn't reading anything that leatherman writes. I'm guessing he's peeked by now though. :p
 
This is looks strange to me too, he has more posts here then I do. Well, too bad I hoped to get some answers, but with all this, seems like nobody want to participate...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
All the answers are there, you just have to look.
 
Guyon said:
This thread is a little funny, if Vassili *really* isn't reading anything that leatherman writes. I'm guessing he's peeked by now though. :p
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All the better ;) I bet its driving him absolutly bonkers. :p
 
OK, it is clear that he chasing me because he do not want to see me on this forum. Well, fine, I do not want to fight this, so be it.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
and to think all he had to do was turn off the ignore for a few minuts and find a plethora of info for him, instead of the personal slams he thinks are here. :confused:
 
vassili... just for the record, leatherman is being very generous with his knowledge in this thread. if you read what he has said, you would thank him.

just thought you should know...

stew
 
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