Ratmandu - Stripped

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kjd2121

Joined
Jun 17, 2008
Messages
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Hi, I received my very first Bussekin blade (Ratmandu) early this week. It was a Black coated with Black canvas scales. I stripped the crinkle off last night and found some pretty serious grind marks on the logo side near the tip and a few on the other side. Not real happy about the metal grinding at the factory. I guess they figure since it will get a coating it doesn't have to be ground correctly/perfectly.

Do you think I can get these marks to sand out? I did hit it real quick with a 150 grit paper. I have the Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander and have ordered some micron belts. Also ordered 320, 500, 1000 grit belts.

Any advice on getting these marks out?? Looking for a more satin finish:











 
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I know, I'm a bad man... but I definitely think it's sexy that way. And about that part:

kjd2121 said:
Not real happy about the metal grinding at the factory I guess they figure since it will get a coating it doesn't have to be ground correctly/perfectly.
Click to expand...

That is why you pay a premium for satin finishes in the Swamp.
 
Most of us Bussekin fans acquire a taste for the machine marks. I love stripped blades with character like that. It looks like you have a Competition Finish RMD.
 
Well, I guess I will leave it as is and just polish it a bit. I think trying to remove the marks will ruin the blade geometry. They are pretty deep.

Just so you know - I sprayed stripper all over the blade and handle - No tape at all for handle protection. There is absolutely no damage to the Canvas!!!

This Rat looks sooooo much better without a coating - where's that mineral oil....
 
Any blade can be polished... It just takes a lot of time. I recently modified a becker bk10 and did a polish on it and it had some nasty grind marks on it and they took so serious time to disappear. I have a rodent 6 on the way soon (they charged my credit card yeaterday... Sweet!) and i have been thnking about stirpping the blade and doing a mirror polish. With all that said the grind marks on yours look nice and gives the blade some attitude... I would leave it as is
 
Like the others I love the look of bare steel, but those marks? Not so much. It looks kind of like chatter marks to me. I've stripped so many knives through the years, its a crap shoot. Sometimes you get a beautiful finish under there and sometimes its "interesting" I once stripped a Desert CT that looked like a dried prune in texture, the grind marks were monstrous, a little sandpaper and the marks started looking pretty nifty! That knife is out there somewhere.
 
The more I look at the marks the more I hate them. If they were more consistent (same on each side) I wouldn't have as much of an issue with them. Because they are right up to the sharp edge I don't think I can sand too much without jacking up the edge - Oh well.

Also, the laser etching is a bit low. I thought many of the knife making functions were automated and were consistent. I guess there are manual processes which make each knife unique...
 
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Thanks for the pix , I have one coming . If you polish the mill marks off just use very fine paper . It will take a bit of time Jake
 
I would hesitate to use the belt sander so close to the tip, what with the flex of the belt and all, unless you have the belt quite tight and have a steady hand. You could just use a flat benchstone and grind it down by hand. Eitherway, start with a very coarse hone to chew out the marks quickly (and to minimize heating if using the belt). Then you can polish the whole bevel nice and even with finer abrasives. Again, belt-grinder is faster but benchstone is easier to control and may be more satisfying.
 
Kjd I will just let it alone , if I like it I am going to order three more for the grandsons . They are a heavy duty blade really not a show knife . Just polish a little at a time, no wheels, belt sanders . You mite try sandblasting
 
kjd2121 said:
Also, the laser etching is a bit low. I thought many of the knife making functions were automated and were consistent. I guess there are manual processes which make each knife unique...
Click to expand...

Need to acid etch the laser etching before applying stripper or the logo will likely be gone. Your logo came through better than I would have suspected w/o chemical etching.
 
Next time you might want to try electrolytic etching. Just needs a 12v charger or battery and takes 1 minute.
 
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1130635-Kukri-Etching-Walk-Through-w-pics
Skip steps 1-4 since there's no need to make a mask. The insulating coating of the blade is protecting the blade and only the laser etched logo will conduct electricity and be etched.
The plus electrode can be clipped to the bare edge as this will conduct. Minus on the q-tip with saltwater. Just repeating what's under the link. :)
Let me know if I can help you answering any question.
 
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