Raw vs Boiled Linseed Oil and other oil treatments

J

JD Spydo

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Nov 20, 2004
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I have heard so much conflicting information about the preferred uses of raw versus boiled linseed oil for the use of axe & hatchet handles that I just thought it was a good time to do a thread on the subject.

Also I don't just want to limit this conversation to linseed oils because there are other oils/chemicals I've used on axe handles for different repairs and wood treatments. For instance I've used a paint additive/enhancer called Penetrol on handles and I've had great luck with it as well. I've also used Penetrol to coat metal with and it worked like a charm.

Also we could chat about the wood swelling products like Swel-Lock and the one that DAP makes. I was also wondering about wood treatments and wood preservatives which would give your axe handles and longer life. Or any other products you all might have used that have helped. >> JD
 
"boiled" linseed has thinners and drying agents mized in so it cures faster and isn't as likely to form a gummy varnish.
"raw" linseed is fairly thick and doesn't penetrate well - plus it takes 3-5 days for each application to "dry".
Tung oil soaks in well, "dries" fairly quick (hours not days), but doesn't cure "hard".
Danish oil is a blend with some of the characteristics of both linseed and tung.
 
I don't have lot of knowledge about wood finishes, but I have used BLO on axe and hatchet handles a few times and it does make a nice finish. However, I've found it also makes the handles somewhat slick feeling. That's good on a full size axe where your hands need to slide during the swing, but on hatchets not so good, as it makes them harder to grip.
 
Yeah "snorkem" the Penetrol product is about the same color as linseed oil right out of the can. It is clear with a dark goldish tint similar to linseed oil. It is a product made by the FLOOD company who makes many different products for the professional painting trade. The Penetrol is specifically made to treat, enhance and improve the performance of oil based paints. But it has many other viable uses as well. It makes primer work much better as far as penetrating into new wood and it makes primer and paint adhere to surfaces better than normal paint would.

I'm looking at the one gallon can and there is a website www.floodco.com. There are so many uses for it that I would use 2 to 3 pages describing half of them to you all. It has many desirable properties for uses on wood and metal both. It also seems to have some wood preservative properties as well. It appears to me that it is manufactured as an enhancement to alkyd oil based products. When I was in the painting business I used it for something on just about every job I did.

Now I've used raw linseed oil on 2 applications where I think it works better. First of all I use it to soak the heads of axes and sledge hammers to swell up the handle in the eye part and it seems to work well. I also use it to treat many bare wood items I have such as wooden step ladders and other small wooden tool handles and I've had great luck with the raw linseed oil. Hope that helps
 
When I used to refinish gun stocks for .22 rifles a long time ago I used a product for gun stocks that was great. It was made by a company called "Birchwood Casey" and the product was/is called "Tru-Oil". It is essentially like a synthetic linseed oil but it had properties that were somewhat different than linseed oil. It made the stocks grippier and tacky and also had some great water repellant and water proof properties.

I was just wondering if any of you guys have ever used that product on an axe handle or any tool handle for that matter. If I remember correctly Birchwood Casey had other wood treatment products as well. It's been a while since I've seen their products around here in the Kansas City area but I've heard from a friend that they are still in business.
 
Don't forget teak oil. I'm not sure how it compares to the other oils but I'm pretty sure it's another option for wood preservation.
 
i applied BLO to one of my Bagwell bowie handles a couple of times a year and still got a crack in it recently:mad: maybe there were other factors but i'm obviously not too impressed with BLO at the moment
 
ogre2 said:
The Civilian Marksmanship Program CMP has a good article on how to protect and preserve the stocks of battle rifles. It also explains the use of various finishes and even gives brand names. Hey if it's good enough for a MBR it ought to be good enough for my tomahawk handle.

http://www.odcmp.com/Services/Rifles/wood_cleaning_article.htm
Click to expand...

I just got through spending about an hour on that website. That was a great source of information "ogre" :)

I encourage all of you to check out and bookmark that website that "ogre" has put up for us. This isn't only great information on axe, hatchet and striking tool handles it covers all types of high quality wood finishes and finishing techniques. CHECK IT OUT FOLKS!
 
Hoopster, I use teak oil on a bench I have, and I am pretty sure it is linseed oil that is thinned and has an orange pigment added.

On the tomahawks I make I use combination of Linseed oil, Paste wax, turpentine and Japan drier. I got the recipe years ago from Ryan Johnson's website. He no longer has it on his website. When I treat a new haft I heat the finish with a hair drier to thin the finish and it is more readily absorbed. I treat them repeatedly over a period of days to build a good surface, then let it dry thoroughly, and then wax with furniture paste wax.

On "using" axes the main thing it to have the handle tight in the head and then seal the end grain with whatever material you choose, to prevent the moisture from entering the end grain. Epoxy works well for this. The best way to care for an axe handle is to keep it dry. Do not leave it outside. When you transport it keep it in the vehicle, not in the bed in the rain and snow. If you keep a properly mounted axe handle dry it will last a lifetime. A treatment of oils and wax will keep it looking good.

~Alden
 
Alden Sherrodd said:
Hoopster, I use teak oil on a bench I have, and I am pretty sure it is linseed oil that is thinned and has an orange pigment added.

On the tomahawks I make I use combination of Linseed oil, Paste wax, turpentine and Japan drier. I got the recipe years ago from Ryan Johnson's website. He no longer has it on his website. When I treat a new haft I heat the finish with a hair drier to thin the finish and it is more readily absorbed. I treat them repeatedly over a period of days to build a good surface, then let it dry thoroughly, and then wax with furniture paste wax.

~Alden
Click to expand...

Hey that's very interesting Alden. >> Hey I would love to have that recipe in the proper proportions. If you would e-mail that to me at >> joespyder@sbcglobal.net << I have a recipe for some stuff I'll give you in return. That sounds like a really good treatment and I would like to try it on a couple of pick handles I'm going to hang this weekend.

Another item I guess would be for another thread is the handle material itself. Is Hickory the only wood that's suitable for an axe handle? Or any striking tool handle for that matter? I've heard that some guys on another Forum were saying the Chinese White Wax wood is even better than Hickory for handles. Just wondering :)

Great input from all of you guys. One more question about wood treatment oil. Have any of you all ever heard of Brazilian Rosewood Oil?
 
I have had good luck with 50% mineral oil and 50% mineral spirits for a day, then 100% mineral oil for a day and then good ol' beeswax rubbed in really well and then buffed against the grain. Holds up well to outdoor use and easy to clean/ and reapply as needed.
 
JD, hickory isn't native to the Pacific Northwest, but I've seen axe and peavey handles here made from maple. I'd like to try crabapple, myself.

Parker
 
I have been tempted to try carnauba wax on the handle. This wax is VERY hard in its pure form. I have used it to finish pipes before. It puts a protective wax coat on the wood, but still allows the wood to breathe. It is a very fine smooth polished finish. I have applied it using a felt wheel on a bench grinder. Run the grinder and put the wax up to the felt wheel and some will transfer to the wheel. Then polish the wood with the felt wheel that has been loaded with carnauba. There are a lot of wood wax products (floor wax, etc) that claim "carnauba" but they are usually liquid or cream. I'm sure they have a limited amount of carnauba in them, but the pure carnauba is like a rock and impossible to apply without power tools or some SERIOUS elbow grease.

I think beeswax is great, and it is hard-ish, but my worry is that it is still waxy smooth especially with just a little heat. It has great water repellent properties and it is easy to apply so it may be the best bet... I've just been tempted to try the carnauba. Maybe I'll try it on a test piece of wood and see what happens...
 
Just to illustrate carnuba:
26795203475_e4503282d2_c.jpg



Bob
 
I hope this question doesn't vary too far off course. I am wondering what to do about aged dryed out handles that are still in relatively good working order? While I won't be out cutting down a redwood forest with these two specific axes (Old broad axes standing at bottom). I would like to preserve the dignity and luster they have? My thoughts were a light sanding and then BLO? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

eb5655c4176b48add4283662eb8dcc90.jpg
 
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That's exactly what I have done to some of my older handles. A light sanding or even just a scrubbing with a scotch-brite pad (watch out for splinters), and then multiple coats of BLO. If they are to be used, just keep an eye on the hangs...I had an old handle which came out gourgeous after being dried out, but the wood had rotted in the eye and shoulder inside the handle and wasn't visible. There wasn't anything I could do about it and it broke in use. Just be careful with the first few uses to make sure the handle is still structurally sound.
 
bth1953 said:
I have been tempted to try carnauba wax on the handle. This wax is VERY hard in its pure form. I have used it to finish pipes before. It puts a protective wax coat on the wood, but still allows the wood to breathe. It is a very fine smooth polished finish. I have applied it using a felt wheel on a bench grinder. Run the grinder and put the wax up to the felt wheel and some will transfer to the wheel. Then polish the wood with the felt wheel that has been loaded with carnauba. There are a lot of wood wax products (floor wax, etc) that claim "carnauba" but they are usually liquid or cream. I'm sure they have a limited amount of carnauba in them, but the pure carnauba is like a rock and impossible to apply without power tools or some SERIOUS elbow grease.

I think beeswax is great, and it is hard-ish, but my worry is that it is still waxy smooth especially with just a little heat. It has great water repellent properties and it is easy to apply so it may be the best bet... I've just been tempted to try the carnauba. Maybe I'll try it on a test piece of wood and see what happens...
Click to expand...

I have a puck of carnauba for finishing pipes. I melted some of it down with beeswax to make a mixture that is much harder than pure beeswax, but has a bit more grip than pure carnauba. I've been very pleased with the results. As the grip heats up in use it gets grippy while the rest of the handle stays more slick like you'd expect from pure carnauba which allows your dominant hand to slide.
 
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