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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
RC-3MIL and Sharpsooter Sheath
- Thread starter iggyd
- Start date
- Joined
- May 25, 2007
- Messages
- 15,113
LOL , no of my knives touch a sharpener that plugs in ,all done by hand.....
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2008
- Messages
- 7,283
Same for me. I wouldn't trust myself with one. I would eventually screw something up, if not the first blade.
Yeah, I did it with sand paper first. Then I read about how people sharpen faster on a belt sander.
I got a $40 1x30 inch belt grinder, ordered 500, 800, 1200 grits and leather belt strop and green compound. 500 and 800 were too much, 1200 is good and I haven't tried the leather.
So about $200 later for all the sharpening materials and a new knife, I learned a valuable lesson. Don't believe everything on the internets....
I got a $40 1x30 inch belt grinder, ordered 500, 800, 1200 grits and leather belt strop and green compound. 500 and 800 were too much, 1200 is good and I haven't tried the leather.
So about $200 later for all the sharpening materials and a new knife, I learned a valuable lesson. Don't believe everything on the internets....
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2008
- Messages
- 605
to get it pointy again, the simple way would be to grind the spine down to make a new point
Bummer. Sounds like you brought the cutting edge and tip through the belt and out to the side. If you ever use this again, make sure you stop and pull the tip off the belt just as you reach the tip. Pushing it through the stroke, the entire way removes the tip every time! Same applies to a mouse pad and sandpaper. You can always hand finish the final edge after the belt sander. I hand sharpen all my knives, factory & the ones I make myself. The belt sander is handy to rough out new blades, but they all end up on stones.
Shotgunner11 may remember the edge on the tan RC4 I sent him
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Shotgunner11 may remember the edge on the tan RC4 I sent him
.It's possible, but I just ran the edge of the blade and not the whole thing. Either way it's ruined, it may be good as a paper weight
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
- Messages
- 7,035
Seriously, if you want a convex edge, send it to someone who knows how to do it (i.e. has already ruined a bunch of knives practicing), or get a bunch of cheap, crayy knives and practice.
Or do it the old fashioned way: sharpen by hand. You'll eventually convex the edge simply because the human hand doesn't like to move in straight lines.
If you want it fast, and don't want to pay for it, what I've done is get s coarse/fine diamond hone (they have Smith's brand at most Wal Marts). I hold the blade still and move the diamond hone over it as if I was using a file. You wrist will naturally want to curve as you extend your hand from edge to spine. Make the edge geometry with the coarse (it removes metal fast, so check it often). Smooth it up with the fine, and you can either stop there or strop it to a polished edge.
Or do it the old fashioned way: sharpen by hand. You'll eventually convex the edge simply because the human hand doesn't like to move in straight lines.
If you want it fast, and don't want to pay for it, what I've done is get s coarse/fine diamond hone (they have Smith's brand at most Wal Marts). I hold the blade still and move the diamond hone over it as if I was using a file. You wrist will naturally want to curve as you extend your hand from edge to spine. Make the edge geometry with the coarse (it removes metal fast, so check it often). Smooth it up with the fine, and you can either stop there or strop it to a polished edge.
