Passivating 3V is never a bad idea. It helps clean and protect the steel and when done right, it looks really cool. (polish a 3V blade to 1500 grit or higher, then passivate/etch it long enough, and it will look like chrome under a light grey filter... try it, you'll like it)
But if really high corrosion-resistance is a serious requirement, you're better off with Elmax or CTS-XHP. They're both very tough and I trust their durabilty even in a big/long knife.
No matter what steel you use... the finer the finish, the better it will resist corrosion. Stone-washing or tumbling is not the best option in that regard.
My approach is that 3V should be HT'ed for the best structure and highest overall edge-stability. The work and research of makers like Nathan Carrothers and Jerry Hossum (and the pros who do their HT) have proven that time and time again. The stuff just plain works. 3V's relatively high corrosion-resistance (WAY better than "plain carbon" steels, about equal to D2, but certainly not "stainless") is just a happy bonus.