Re-handling a neglected kitchen knife

[mhawg]

Have you ever lent someone a knife and then they keep it for a while... like 20 years? I got this Case Utility kitchen knife as a wedding present in 1990 and my mother liked it so I said she could use it for a while. Now that she is moving to assisted living I got my knife back, much worse for wear and dishwasher tear. I tried to use it but after cutting up peppers I just had to find a way to fix it. You guys are going to have to help though. Being totally ignorant of kitchen knife construction I tried to saw the pins off with a hack saw before I noticed that the were some sort of friction connectors. After I finish cleaning up the handle and blade I would like to fasten a wooden handle of some kind. It is resting on a block of Teakwood I've had around for years and I also have some Hickory and Oak ax handle pieces big enough for the job. After I pick out the type of fasteners I like what step comes next? None of the wood I have is stabilized so I'm planning on a light oiling and seal with super glue. I do not have any vacuum pump capabilities for resin impregnation. I know that if this is as simple as I want it to be then everyone would be re-handling knives. Remember most of my fine tuning skills require a 4 lb. machinist hammer and a 2 foot long piece of re-bar to pry with. This is not meant to be a show piece, just a functional kitchen knife. I've glanced at Jason Cutter's 60 min. knife thread. I'm itching to get out the hand drill and the hacksaw and rough this thing out, give me a little input, please.

XXX

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[richard j]

i would go with the hickory and use boiled linseed oil for the finish which can be applied when needed. you might be able to find new pins at jantz supply. if you need more help pm me your number and i'll be glad to give you a call.

 

[Harleyfx69]

why not just order some scales or blocks off of the interwebs and go from there,

or get a nice piece of antler or similar material ..

 

[lel]

I have finished several kit kitchen knives in 440C and used a diamondwood for most of them as a handle material. It is cheap, easy to work with, looks fine, and has no problems with moisture. Micarta will also work good for it.

 

[Dan Pierson]

Assuming that you are also using either good epoxy or something like Corby rivets
(or both): You don't need to be constrained to the pin hole sizes in the tang -- a
little space around the pin will make it easier to fit up and provide space for an
epoxy bolt to form. This gives you more design options.

 

[firebert]

I personally like the look and feel of oiled teak. It will hold up well in the kitchen, too. (Don't put it in the dishwasher!) Hickory is also very durable. A CA finish might get kind of slippery.

Get some pin stock or rivets and a good epoxy and have fun.

Here's a teak handled knife I did a while back: