Re-handling Khukuri

[ycastane]

I have a khukuri i bought last year for camping and hunting, 12' original style i guess you could call it, got it from nepal. Beautiful blade but the pointy ends and both top and bottom (specially top) are not very comfortable when chopping a 2-3" branch. So after reading and watching quite a few videos as i am a visual guy myself i have decided to give it a try and do it myself, removal of existing and going with micarta as it seems fairly easy. My blade is a full tang with a couple rivets, now i need help from those who have far more experience in this knife making thing and stuff. What exactly would i need for the new handle? Like rivets, or pins, new end plate, etc. Thats where i need the help as the micarta part i have all i need to perform such task. Anyone has any thoughts and perhaps where i could find such items, i am looking at knifekits but i dont know what i need. Thanks

 

[venmm73]

I re-handle my knives as well. I use g-10 i found for me it is alot easier to work with then micarta. I like to use corbys and epoxy to fasten my handles unless i want them to be removable. Then i use bolts and barrel fasteners. like on the esee knives. Im like you a guy who just wanted to do it himself so im sure someone who has more knowledge can help more. As far as tools i use my dremel, belt sander, and hand sanding. if i can help you more you can email me. Good luck. Use a mask and good ventilation.

 

[ycastane]

I did a quick search on g-10, looks pretty good and if its easier i dont mind using it. Apparently better as well. I'll look more into detail on how to use it and stuff. Corbys, what is it? I know nothing when it comes to knifes so i need a little explaining lol, complete newby... Thanks for the help venmm!!

 

[aarongb]

A pic would help, but you'll have to remove the scales to see how big the holes are through the tang. the end plate would have to be fabricated, or salvage the piece that is there. Again, I have no idea what it looks like, but I'm guessing it's cosmetic, not functional. go to Jantz, Knife and Gun supplies, or Texas Knifemaker supply and search for Corby or Loveless. I have no idea if knifekits carries them (search is your friend). You'll need a 2-part epoxy, any of those sites will have it, get a long cure, not 5-minute. Use a respirator working with G10 and Micarta, inhaling glass fibers probably isn't fun.

 

[ycastane]

I'll take a few different angle photos in a little bit when i have a chance to pass by the house if not later after work. I'll check those sites you just mentioned. Thanks aarong!!!

 

[tryppyr]

it would also be helpful to know what tools you have available. G10 can be a bit difficult to cut with saws. And how will you be shaping it? It makes a big mess when being sanded or filed, but it is great for developing a nice shape. If all you're going to do is round up the otherwise squared edges, never mind... but if you're going to do something more creative, I really like G10. I found it easy to shape with needle files.

As for epoxy, your temptation will be to buy something at a big box store. They work okay, and some people swear by them, but others swear more emphatically by the top two contenders... Brownell's AgraGlas (not the gel) and West Systems. Both of these have long cure times (24 hours in the case of AcraGlas) and don't expand. Some of the big box varieties can expand and create gaps. Other glues (Gorilla glue comes to mind) create bubbles while drying that makes an unsightly boundary... at least it did for me. Again, others have different experiences and swear by Gorilla glue.

Maybe the key message here is no matter what you do, some people will agree with that approach and others will say there is a better (or cheaper or faster) way to accomplish the same thing.

That said, I have had really good results with AcraGlas, and highly recommend it.

Pins, bolts and tubes are another topic where you will find a spectrum of opinions. I'm not much for scales, so I can't comment directly with any authority, but I will say I like the look of corby bols when properly installed. Much more attactive than hardware store (hex head, for example) bolts, which are made to much looser tolerances. I'll leave any further comments to those that do more full tang work.

 

[ycastane]

As far as tools and knowledge, i would say none. Files seem to be fairly easy and inexpensive i guess so most likely that route. Top 2 contenders in epoxy sounds good to me, i'll pretty much like using quality stuff if i can afford it of course, but i will go the direction you guys give me as i have no idea which is best. This will definitely will be my first project regarding any kind of blade.

Pins and bolts or scales is something i definitely need more looking into it because i have no knowledge in such matter so to me is like talking chinese. I need to see what they are, how they look, how to use them, etc

Here are some pictures i just took so you have an idea of what i am talking about and perhaps could guide me better in my endeavor !!!

 

[Dan Pierson]

Those are probably cutlery rivets. Properly installed Corby bolts will look similar but
cleaner and be much stronger.

I'd try to remove the scales as follows:

1. Grind out the tops of the rivets until you get down to the smaller pin section, probably
on both sides. You could probably do this with a larger coarse file. A round file would
be easier, IMHO.
2. If the scales are glued on, put the knife in a 250 F oven for a bit. This will soften most
epoxies and other glues. This is way below tempering temperatures, so the blade won't
be damaged at all.

You should now be able to remove the scales with your hands. You may be able to do so
after step 1. Of course the top of the scales will be trashed, but you don't care about that,
right?

 

[ycastane]

I can give that a try, what about the end plate. The top spike in the end plate is the one giving me issues,not so much the handle as the end plate and handle shaped in the same manner, when i try chopping it actually digs into the skin as well as turning the blade which in turn makes me have to re-adjust my hand again and again.

What you mention definitely sounds fairly easy so i will be trying that this weekend when i have some time on my hands. Thanks Don!!

 

[Karda]

Before rehandling this you should take the time to try rounding the points off a little. Do so carefully as some khukuri don't need as much adjustment as others. Sometimes these things take a little patience, work and thinking to get them to feel comfortable. Some people never get used to traditional handles and that is a pity because they are really time tested and true.
Take this advice from someone whom has dealt with this issue before and have had several hundred khukuri pass thru my hands...so far from just about every khukuri manufacturer around.
You are most welcome to search thru the Himalayan Imports forum here in the manufacturers section to find answers or ask them personally. Alot of our old woodchucks and tinkerers have retired or passed on , but their words live on in our forum. I have quite a bit of experience myself in these matters and am more than willing to help if i know what the problem is and how to solve it. I do Repairs and Warranty Repair for H.I..

If you really must replace the scales you are in for a treat.
You will first need to drill the pins out. Carefully if you want to keep the old scales. Not so if you don't care.
Then the best way to break the laha (himalayan epoxy made from saps and other stuff) is to bring a pot of water to boil.
place the handle in the water for several minutes. Remove from the water and try to remove the scales. You may have to do this a few times to get them completely off as Laha is quite tenacious and resets very quickly.
Then you will need to carefully fit newly made scales between the bolster and buttcap. This is a bit time consuming to carefully and concisely fit.
Then you must reglue the scale to the handle and repin, being careful to properly peen. Or as suggested use corby bolts.

 

[DCL Knives]

Make sure to wear a respirator when working with g10 or Micarta.

 

[Karda]

Make sure to wear a respirator when working with g10 or Micarta.

Yes indeed. It is probably prudent to also do so with some exotic woods also, as they can be quite unhealthy if ingested or respirated.

 

[ycastane]

Before rehandling this you should take the time to try rounding the points off a little. Do so carefully as some khukuri don't need as much adjustment as others. Sometimes these things take a little patience, work and thinking to get them to feel comfortable. Some people never get used to traditional handles and that is a pity because they are really time tested and true.
Take this advice from someone whom has dealt with this issue before and have had several hundred khukuri pass thru my hands...so far from just about every khukuri manufacturer around.
You are most welcome to search thru the Himalayan Imports forum here in the manufacturers section to find answers or ask them personally. Alot of our old woodchucks and tinkerers have retired or passed on , but their words live on in our forum. I have quite a bit of experience myself in these matters and am more than willing to help if i know what the problem is and how to solve it. I do Repairs and Warranty Repair for H.I..

If you really must replace the scales you are in for a treat.
You will first need to drill the pins out. Carefully if you want to keep the old scales. Not so if you don't care.
Then the best way to break the laha (himalayan epoxy made from saps and other stuff) is to bring a pot of water to boil.
place the handle in the water for several minutes. Remove from the water and try to remove the scales. You may have to do this a few times to get them completely off as Laha is quite tenacious and resets very quickly.
Then you will need to carefully fit newly made scales between the bolster and buttcap. This is a bit time consuming to carefully and concisely fit.
Then you must reglue the scale to the handle and repin, being careful to properly peen. Or as suggested use corby bolts.

Thanks Karda, appreciate the help. I did some search before posting and saw some of your post as well as a sticky i believe or a thread regarding khukuris so i know somewhat your expertise with these blades.

Honestly the handle is not the problem at all as much as the point, the problem i see with filling or grinding the the points is that the end cap will have to be grinded down as well correct? At least in this khukuri it looks like its all part of the pointy end.

Micarta i saw it and thought it looked fairly easy to just wrap some fabric and epoxy and then grind down, i could be wrong though, but thats why i mentioned micarta in the first place.

Also the issue with getting used to the traditional handle is that i dont use it as often as i would like to so its hard getting used to it, so the few times i use it is a pain in my rear end and not comfortable at all.

 

[Dan Pierson]

Honestly the handle is not the problem at all as much as the point, the problem i see with filling or grinding the the points is that the end cap will have to be grinded down as well correct? At least in this khukuri it looks like its all part of the pointy end.

I doubt that either the end cap or the full tang are hardened so you should be able to
just file it to shape and hand sand to the finish you want.

 

[ycastane]

Good to know, i'll give it a go this weekend and see how it comes out. Thanks for the help gents!

 

[Karda]

Thanks Karda, appreciate the help. I did some search before posting and saw some of your post as well as a sticky i believe or a thread regarding khukuris so i know somewhat your expertise with these blades.

Honestly the handle is not the problem at all as much as the point, the problem i see with filling or grinding the the points is that the end cap will have to be grinded down as well correct? At least in this khukuri it looks like its all part of the pointy end.

Micarta i saw it and thought it looked fairly easy to just wrap some fabric and epoxy and then grind down, i could be wrong though, but thats why i mentioned micarta in the first place.

Also the issue with getting used to the traditional handle is that i dont use it as often as i would like to so its hard getting used to it, so the few times i use it is a pain in my rear end and not comfortable at all.

The proper way is to round the buttcap to your liking and then contour the wood to fit/match. Always remember to do so carefully in small increments and check for fit/feel often. It is easy to take material off and almost impossible to put back on. I actually have a nice tin chirra that someone completely rounded the top part of the buttcap off of, I like traditional aesthetics so i put the point and flare back on it because there was enough material to do so. The buttcap and tang are unhardened and this task is easily and probably best done by hand filing and sanding.

 

[ycastane]

Yeah thats what i thought, im going to be buying the files today and trying it tomorrow, Definitely little by little. I'll probably round off the bottom part as well so it kind of matches with the top part otherwise i think it will look weird. Thanks for the help everyone, much appreciated!!!

 

[Dan Pierson]

One last note: use a hard backing for sandpaper on wood next to metal. Otherwise you'll
sand the wood more than the metal. Ask any of us how we know

 

[ycastane]

Thanks Dan, will do!