Tape up the shiny blade surface and sand the tang areas that will be under the scales with 100 grit paper.
On your next knives consider this:
Normally you never buff the tang. It may cause the edges to round slightly and make a small gap show at the edge of the scales. This is cosmetic, and not a problem as far as strength, but should be avoided.
Another good thing to do is make a slight hollow in the center of the tang. I mark the scale position, and use a 2" wheel on the grinder and make a very ugly hollow grind that leaves a 1/4" boarder unground. The hollowed area will allow some resin between the scales and the tang. If the joint is too smooth and flat, all the resin may get squeezed out in assembly and clamping. You can still do that on these blades.
Another problem is the hole placement for your rivets is wrong on several of those knives. Particularly problematic is the second from the bottom. The holes seem OK on a flat blade, but when the scales are installed and shaped, the pins will need up far too close to the edge and on a curved surface. Any peening you do in installation will be ground away in shaping.
Some of the other blades will have similar problems with the pins being too far forward and near the butt when the handle is shaped. Sadly, it will be difficult to fix this now unless you drill new holes farther in with a carbide bit. You may just want to finish these and make it a lesson on three things. One - is to post sketches of planned knives for comments and critique. That would have had someone comment about moving the holes. Two - is that making a batch of knives at a time can easily lead to making the same mistake multiple times. Until you get the skills refined, one at a time is best. Finally, Three - is that planning is everything. Consider all the final positions and functions of every element. What looks "cool" in a sketch can look "crude" in the finished knife.
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