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I would stand behind this assertion.
I would like to add that a thick or dull cutting object will leave a gaping wound by tearing tissue, which causes greater trauma, longer term damage and profuse bleeding, while a thin knife that is very sharp will cause a wound that is easily self-sealed.
Anyone who has cut themselves with both a sharp and a dull kitchen knife knows this.
This is probably the reason Bark River made the STS 5 model out of .270 inch stock. It's really sharp but any wound won't self-seal as the blade stock is so thick. It's truly a nasty weapon.
Another cool innovation was the concept of "flying serrations" which was popularized by Jerry Busse. Designed to rip through a target, along with any clothing (leather, canvas, denim, and other heavy materials included), any blade with this feature won't be leaving a nice scalpel-smooth cut. Far from it.
It's two separate extremes, that why a rapier was a deadly weapon of choice in its time, and it made more sense then a huge bastard sword.
Bastard swords aren't all that terribly huge, and were often shorter than rapiers. Likewise most rapiers would have a heck of a time parrying a strong blow from a bastard sword without the blade simply pushing straight through the defense. The two swords existed during the same span of time, and yet the rapier never saw service as a battlefield weapon--it was a civilian defensive sword.
Edge vs. point is a debate that's been waged for centuries. I say "why not both?" Gimme' a good cut-and-thrust any day.![]()
WWI trench knife.
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lets see if it works
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Here are a few from the other side of the "pond" compliments of Makandr. Check in the thread for others...
The blades I have that I would consider good for fighting are Spyderco Warrior, Chris Reeve Green Beret, Ka-Bar USMC, Ka-Bar Black Fighter, Scrapyard Regulator, Busse TankBuster, and on the way Busse Gladius.
Personal favourite.
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Cold Steel OSS in Aus8A.
Long, fast, razorsharp. How bad can a knife get?![]()
I would offer this as an alternative, original model 800 AFCK...
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