Real world wxperience with rust preventatives

U

Uncle Bill

Joined
Aug 24, 1999
Messages
434
What do you put on your carbon blades, and how is it handling real world situations?

WD-40, Starrett (do they call it M1?), SAE 20 motor oil, corn oil, mystery juice . . .

Skinning deer, cutting tomatoes, getting splashed with salt water or sweat, sitting in the bottom of your bass boat . . .

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I don't want my children fed or clothed by the state, but I would prefer THAT to their being educated by the state.
 
A forum member ran a test on this and WD-40 was the best with tuf cloth comng in next best. I use Break Free with good results.
 
WD-40? Not some exotic stuff that sells for $35.00 a can?

So just spray it on, wipe it off, and jump in the surf?

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I don't want my children fed or clothed by the state, but I would prefer THAT to their being educated by the state.
 
I think I've posted this before.... a department that I worked in had a lot of hardened and ground of tools in it, where the temp was controlled but not the humidity so items were prone to rusting. They were using WD40 and similar product but rust was still a problem so I suggested Break-Free, as the NRA had tested it by coating a nail with it and suspending the nail 1/2 way in a glass of water for year, with no rust. I had also used it in the military and it seemed to work well enough. They liked it and used it for quite awhile, but later said that they had switched to EEZOX as it worked even better. My local sporting goods store also keeps a can of EEZOX handy for customer use, when they buy things that are probe to rusting. I use EEZOX for longer term storage, Break-Free otherwise, and only use WD40 for short term protection on the tools in the garage and such. For food contact I'll use mineral oil, but it doesn't spread as nicely.
 
So EEZOX and Breakfree. Anybody using something else you like?

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I don't want my children fed or clothed by the state, but I would prefer THAT to their being educated by the state.
 
If I am going to use a knife for eating or cutting food I will use beeswax. For Storage EEZOX(sp),for field and river knives Marine tuff cloth. Or if I was that paranoiod about rust I would have Kit Carsom make me a stellite knife or Rob Simonich make me a Talonite knife. I'm one step ahead with a red G-10 handle paring knife from Kit.

Cheers,

ts

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"Cet animal est tres mechant;quand on l'attaque il se defend."("This animal is very mischievous: when it is attacked it defends itself")
 
Another idea, at least for storage, is to save those little "Silica" packs that come with electronic equipment. They're those little white packages marked "dessicant" or something, with the liability crazed warning: "WARNING! DO NOT EAT!" on 'em.
I toss these into my gun safes and knife drawers to absorb whatever moisture might find its way in.

As for Eezox, I found that it leaves an icky, gummy coating if left to sit for a while. I admit, it protects the blade from rust, but who wants the gummieness?

I've had the same thing happen with TuffCloth as well.
At this point, I went back to BreakFree CLP and am happy with it. I think WD-40 would work as well, but BreakFree's not supposed to attreact dirt.

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That's my two cents. Hey! How come you're giving me change?
 
I've used Tufcloth, marine tufcloth, renaissance wax, combinations of the foregoing and the standarda light oils and olive oil.[olive oil? yes,not quite as toxic as wd40]. I have not been very happy with the Sentry Solutions products or renaissance wax on 01, 52100, "carbon V" and even 440v. I don't know why I'm not getting good results,but I'm about to give up on them very anything but the lightest uses.
 
On gummy EEZOX .... you might be doing it already but you're supposed to apply and then wipe it off, leaving a thin layer. The surface should also be pretty clean before applying as I recall, at least not oily. For real long storage hot dip cosmoline seems to work well.
 
HJK-I agree with you on the Sentry products. Funny, some folks swear by them, but I've used the Tuff Cloth religiously and still had faint rust marks appear on my CQC7. I know the bead blasted blade is famously hard to keep rust free, but I'd thought that that is exactly what the Tuff Cloth was supposed to prevent. I've switched to thorough cleaning, then a light coat of Shooter's Choice Rust Prevent. So far so good.
 
I'll recommend Marine Tuf-Cloth and Tuf-Glide by Sentry Solutions.

I live in South Florida and I sweat a lot.

I often wear neck knives of 1095/1075 which have been treated with Marine Tuf-Cloth.

I have had some staining/patina (black oxide) but no red rust develop at all on my blades.

I used to treat the blades regularly with the stuff, but now I am waiting to see when they need another coating as it seems to last quite a long time.

My real world experience. And I don't even want the two cents.
wink.gif


Blues

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Live Free or Die

 
On corrosion developing .... another attribute to consider is one's body chemistry, which may also explain why some products don't seem to work for everyone. At one time tool maker apprentices were rejected if they caused excessive corrosion on freshly machined steel, due to something like being too acidic (?)
 
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