Reasons not to buy Edge Pro?

Captain Ron said:
Tell me of another knife sharpening system that after you sharpen your knife you have to use a ceramic rod to get it sharp. Or one scratches your knife while using it. I'VE had one of the first ones that were made was bought in 1991 or 92 I know a lot about the Edge Pro and the edges it makes. Some do not like the truth. For the time and money they are better ways of getting a sharp knife.:p
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is that me or does he sound exactly like our friend vassily ?
 
RevDevil said:
Sorry to hear that it never worked out for you. I've never used the ceramic rod that came with my EP. I get my knives plenty sharp, each and every time. Sharpen one side, get a burr, flip it over do the same thing to the other side, change stones, create a burr, flip it, repeat. Scratches to the knife can be pervented, use less water and/or tape the blade. I've found that with more and more practice the liklihood of scratching the blade is reduced. You are right, some people do not like the truth. But what works for one might not work for all, good thing we have lots of options. ;)
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Nice reflection, but where's the blood? It ain't sharp unless there's blood! :D

I'd like to reiterate that my blades get scratched because I don't care. I slurry and swarf and drown the stones a LOT, and never worry about looks - but that's just me, lot's of people use it without messing up their blades. I simply don't care about looks, so I'm probably not a good EP role model. Unless, of course, you want to see an air splitting edge, that is one thing I DO care about...
 
sodak said:
Nice reflection, but where's the blood? It ain't sharp unless there's blood! :D

I'd like to reiterate that my blades get scratched because I don't care. I slurry and swarf and drown the stones a LOT, and never worry about looks - but that's just me, lot's of people use it without messing up their blades. I simply don't care about looks, so I'm probably not a good EP role model. Unless, of course, you want to see an air splitting edge, that is one thing I DO care about...
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Oh yeh, when I do users, I really don't care about scratches. I do usually do the EP treatment on any knife that I start to carry. The DLC ones get taped when I reprofile them but the satin ones most often don't

And yes, it's the sharpness I am most concerned about. A knife need to be at least hair whittling when I finish. The EP gives me what I want. I am sure there are other systems that work as well but it's what I have and I can work with it.
 
sodak said:
Nice reflection, but where's the blood? It ain't sharp unless there's blood! :D

I'd like to reiterate that my blades get scratched because I don't care. I slurry and swarf and drown the stones a LOT, and never worry about looks - but that's just me, lot's of people use it without messing up their blades. I simply don't care about looks, so I'm probably not a good EP role model. Unless, of course, you want to see an air splitting edge, that is one thing I DO care about...
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That was the other picture, it got removed :)
 
IME, the Edge-Pro is the perfect tool for your experiment.

I've been using it for years, and never ever used a ceramic ( or any other) rod or steel afterwards.

My edges are considerably beyond "razor" sharp. (And bear in mind that I'm an amateur, and a "hobby" sharpener, not a professional by any standard.)

If you add an angle cube, you can achieve true precision, to small fraction of a degree in your angle.

And should you desire an improvement over the truly superb edges that can be attained with the basic EP, Shapton waterstones and Atoma diamond hones mounted on EP blanks are available from
www.chefknivestogo.com and www.jendeindustries.com
 
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just a thought, not to poo on jende, i like the guy and the services he provides but his 1"x6" mounted stones cost more than a whole 8"x3" replacement plate ... except for the 140 wich cost 80$ all the other grits are 70 and you can cut 3 1"x6" and get a nice 2x3" pocket stone from each plate ...
 
I have both Edge-Pro and Wicked Edge. I like the Edge-Pro because you can look at the edge with a loupe easier to see the "wire edge" forming during sharpening. It handles my kitchen knives with ease. But for smaller knives, I like the Wicked Edge better. They both put an excellent and repeatable edge on the blade. You can't go wrong with either system.
 
RF1 said:
I have both Edge-Pro and Wicked Edge. I like the Edge-Pro because you can look at the edge with a loupe easier to see the "wire edge" forming during sharpening. It handles my kitchen knives with ease. But for smaller knives, I like the Wicked Edge better. They both put an excellent and repeatable edge on the blade. You can't go wrong with either system.
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I came out against the W.E. when it first arrived. Now I know better- it clearly has its own niche in the market. I would say the Edge Pro and Wicked Edge are "semi-competitors"; they both have the capability to produce very high quality edges, but their pros and cons effectively divide their users into two noticeably separate groups. In that way I don't believe either system is going away and furthermore- it is very important that one carefully weigh the advantages and disadvantages of each before settling on a system.
 
I have three systems that I use heavily: EdgePro, Sharpmaker, and a Kalamazoo belt grinder.

The EdgePro is my go-to for when I have a knife that I need to be absolutely PERFECT, like someone's grandpa's WWII KaBar. I work through the factory stones (except the stock 120, that stone is crap, and replaced in my rotation with a DMT XC plate) then down to a Chosera 5K, and a Chosera 8K Snow White. By the time the series is complete, the bevel is literally mirror polished. I let the slurry build up on the 8K a bit for a finer finish. I could add a 10K and a 15K to the rotation as well if I wanted to, for even more polish. Those edges are paper-shaving, hair-popping, tomato-lacerating sharp! Holding the knife on the table is an exercise with a bit of a learning curve, but it's not a long curve. FFGs are about the easiest to do, I think, because there is no confusion over what plane is your reference as you move the blade across the table. Give it ten or fifteen knives, and you won't even notice any more, it just becomes second-nature keeping it flat and moving. Also, the drill-collar trick makes adjusting for stone thickness a matter of seconds. I would certainly buy mine again, it was pricey, but worth every penny. Aftermarket stones improve it yet more.

The Kalamazoo is unbeatable for anything involving more than one knife per hour. Just this last weekend I went on a fishing trip with a friend and their extended family, I must have done 30 knives on my Kali over the course of a day, ranging from fillet knives to to folding and fixed-blade fishing knives. The state of some of them when I started was truly appalling, most of them had either been totally neglected or yanked through one of those carbide "sharpeners" many times. One was even missing a quarter-inch of point where the guy tried to stab it into the cleaning table and botched it. My rotation ran 120 grit (if needed, like re-profiling that point) to 220, 400, 15u, 9u, then green on leather and white on leather. Only one knife out of that 30 or so would not cleanly shave hair when it came off the belt, and that one looked like it had been worked on a grinder at some point. I suspect it was cooked before I got it, the sparks off the 220 just didn't look right at all.

The Sharpmaker, oddly enough, is about the single most-used tool I have for my personal knives. All of my EDC stuff is sharpened up through 8K on the EdgePro for V-bevels, and 30K on the Kaly for convex, so all primary metal-removal was done long ago. As soon as any of them (even the convex) start feeling like they're not quite as 'grippy' as they were to begin with, three or four very light passes per side on the Sharpmaker fine rods will get that edge right back where it belongs. I've tried it for primary sharpening, and it just takes WAY too long to remove any amount of metal. If you need to sharpen any number of knives that are in BAD shape or have damage, you'll want something else. If your knives are already in good shape and you're looking for something to KEEP them that way? You'd be hard pressed to find anything better and more convenient, I think. Something I'd love to see would be a couple of hardened-steel rods for it, so you could literally use it as a bench steel.

I haven't had a chance to try a WEPS yet, but I've got to say it looks good!
 
pwet said:
just a thought, not to poo on jende, i like the guy and the services he provides but his 1"x6" mounted stones cost more than a whole 8"x3" replacement plate ... except for the 140 wich cost 80$ all the other grits are 70 and you can cut 3 1"x6" and get a nice 2x3" pocket stone from each plate ...
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If one has the tools and skill to cut stones, obviously one can save a considerable amount of money. Unfortunately, I have neither!
 
sure, but all it takes is a ruler, a marker and a dremel with some cut of wheels. no big deal. just start your cut from the behind and you'l cut the steel, not the diamonds. keep in mind that and atoma replacement sheet is not a dmt diasharp, the steel plate is just 1mm thick. than stick it to a polish tape blank and you're done.

i've been trying to save some coins for the whole line up of 8x3" replacement sheet without success, i'll report as soon as i can if i ever do ... :p
 
Thank you for the information, PWET.

Perhaps one of my colleagues in the engineering department has the tools and experience needed. It would certainly be nice to have a complete set without mortgaging one's soul! (LOL)
 
The Edge Pro works fine for me and I have sharpened hundreds of knives on mine.

I like it because it's fast and the results are repeatable, the stock stones work great IMO. :)

I really like the 600 Grit Stone finish for an all around working edge, gives a great balance of edge retention and aggressiveness.
 
knarfeng said:
I don't know about the edge Pro. But I do know that the angles on the Wicked Edge vary from knife to knife on the same setting, depending on how broad the blade is.

I do edge testing.
I settled on using a Sharpmaker because it was the only system that I KNEW would provide the same angle on every blade.

Be advised that with the Sharpmaker it is time consuming to change edge angles with just the Spyderco rods. For that I use DMT stones braced against the Sharpmaker rods.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...tainless-alloys-using-a-visual-inspection-tec

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-S30V-vs.-VG10-vs.-Buck-S30V-vs.-Benchmade-D2

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...PM-M4-HC-ZDP-189-M390-and-S30V-edge-retention
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I believe you are seeing the after affects of the primary grind geometry from knife to knife. This will show up in the edge as a variance in width so the actual angle of the bevel will be what you set it at. It will appear quite different from knife to knife and it should because some knives are ground thinner at the point just above the bevel while others are going to be left thicker. Compare a Buck Strider 881 with the 5mm thick blade set at 20 degrees or 18 on an Edge Pro to a Spyderco Para Military at the same setting and the edge bevel will look different because of the thickness difference from knife to knife. Yet both are the same setting on the sharpener.

I've used the Edge Pro for years and like it just fine. There are negatives to it as there are with most of the others sharpening systems yet all can work if you apply yourself when using it. I believe the Edge Pro requires more focus than some want to spend while sharpening and it does make some slurry mess as well as scratch blades if you don't take precautions to prevent that but I've found it puts a very impressive edge on my knives so I use it pretty much exclusively to set my working edges on my custom folders. Taking it down to a final finish of that 600 grit stone seems to me to bring a nice user edge to knives and its a good straight bevel to work with if anyone wants to resharpen it further to take it to a higher polish once they purchase it. Its worked for me and folks like the edges.

By the way, using the ceramic after sharpening is to knock off any remaining burr. I've never found any reason to do much more than a couple light swipes on my EP ceramic. After that the edge bevel apex, AKA, "EDGE" is set to go in most cases.

STR
 
STR said:
I believe you are seeing the after affects of the primary grind geometry from knife to knife. This will show up in the edge as a variance in width so the actual angle of the bevel will be what you set it at. It will appear quite different from knife to knife and it should because some knives are ground thinner at the point just above the bevel while others are going to be left thicker. Compare a Buck Strider 881 with the 5mm thick blade set at 20 degrees or 18 on an Edge Pro to a Spyderco Para Military at the same setting and the edge bevel will look different because of the thickness difference from knife to knife. Yet both are the same setting on the sharpener.

I've used the Edge Pro for years and like it just fine. There are negatives to it as there are with most of the others sharpening systems yet all can work if you apply yourself when using it. I believe the Edge Pro requires more focus than some want to spend while sharpening and it does make some slurry mess as well as scratch blades if you don't take precautions to prevent that but I've found it puts a very impressive edge on my knives so I use it pretty much exclusively to set my working edges on my custom folders. Taking it down to a final finish of that 600 grit stone seems to me to bring a nice user edge to knives and its a good straight bevel to work with if anyone wants to resharpen it further to take it to a higher polish once they purchase it. Its worked for me and folks like the edges.

By the way, using the ceramic after sharpening is to knock off any remaining burr. I've never found any reason to do much more than a couple light swipes on my EP ceramic. After that the edge bevel apex, AKA, "EDGE" is set to go in most cases.

STR
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Yep that 600 grit edge off the Edge Pro is the real deal. :thumbup:

Although I use Norton 3"x 8" Med and Fine India Stones for my kitchen knives and I can put an edge on them in a hillbilly heartbeat and they cut like nobodies business in the kitchen. :D

Yes I still freehand sharpen for those who wonder. ;)
 
I agree, Ankerson. the 320 and 600 stones are my favourite two of the stock EP stones. The 120 feels like crap, the 220 cuts well but feels kinda gritty, and the 1K loads up very quickly. If I'm not belt sharpening, I usually go through my 8K Chosera on the EP, it leaves a very nice edge. I suppose I COULD go to a 10k and 15k as well, but the 8K makes me happy so far. At least this week. :D The 600 is a great endpoint for "friend knives" and stuff that doesn't need a mirror bevel.
 
Komitadjie said:
I agree, Ankerson. the 320 and 600 stones are my favourite two of the stock EP stones. The 120 feels like crap, the 220 cuts well but feels kinda gritty, and the 1K loads up very quickly. If I'm not belt sharpening, I usually go through my 8K Chosera on the EP, it leaves a very nice edge. I suppose I COULD go to a 10k and 15k as well, but the 8K makes me happy so far. At least this week. :D The 600 is a great endpoint for "friend knives" and stuff that doesn't need a mirror bevel.
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I feel that with the options available matching the edges of the knives to the use at hand is easier. :D
 
True, and I keep MEANING to do that, but I usually end up going "Oh... but I have this 5k too... Hmm... but I can still see scratches!" :D
 
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