recomend a fixed blade EDC for someone with lousy sharpening skills?

A different take. Get a convex blade. Bark River is probably the most available. Bravo 1 LT is a good one. You can sharpen on a piece of sand paper on top of a mouse pad, then strop it. If you strop before it gets dull you’ll go a long time, maybe forever, between sharpenings.
 
gtwnys said:
I've been searching for a fixed blade knife to replace my junky steel BDK EDC.

I like the shape and size of the ESEE-3 but before I purchase one I want to be sure there isn't something better in the price range.

Here is the main criteria for me... I hope for a knife that could withstand all those abuses they put on them on Forged In Fire. But I would never baton a steel rod or a whiskey barrel steel rim. I do wish for a blade that strong though.
I want a sharp edge that will still be sharp a year from now. I have no intention of hitting anything steel or hard with it. It will be used for everyday tasks like opening packages, bags, envelopes, cutting rope, small game and even the occasional whitetail field dressing. In other words an EDC knife.

I don't need a knife to slice paper or shave my arm. I don't shave my arms. I want a knife that will do my needed tasks and not get dull. As I said, I suck at sharpening knives.
I do like the idea of free sharpening some companies offer and would be leaning towards those companies. But quality metal with a long lasting edge is what I am longing for.

So, anybody? $150 is my ballpark budget. ESEE-3 is a size reference.
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Check out the Kabar Snody Boss and Big Boss. Chisel ground knives are much easier to sharpen.
 
Lionsteel M4 is $155 and M390. It will hold an edge as well as almost anything. But I would highly recommend learning to sharpen because a long lasting edge holding steel like M390 also equals much more work sharpening when it does get dull.
 
I have copied this from Jeff Randal of Randal's Adventure and Training...famous outfit.
"While 1095 is a top choice for professional cutlery designed for hard use, it will rust and stain if not properly cared for - especially on the cutting edge and around the laser engraving since the engraving burns through the coating slightly. It is the user's responsibility to keep the blades properly lubricated and cleaned. We suggest using a dry film rust inhibitor such as TUF-GLIDE or TUF-CLOTH if you want your knife to stay pristine. Otherwise, do like we do and just use the knife and not worry about a little bit of rust since it does not hurt the blade in any manner, nor does a little bit of rust on the edge hurt you if you cut up food with your knife.

While we make every attempt to build a really good looking knife, the bottom line is we build "using" cutlery and that's the reason we like 1095. So, keep your knives clean with a rust inhibitor or be slobs like us and not worry about a little bit of staining :D"
 
Check out Dendra Russian Bear... Maybe it will work for you. Good luck.
 
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I'd go with a Becker over a esee. The extra chrome vanadium will help your knife hold an edge a little longer. Get you a BK9. I have a BK9 I've been purposely trying to break while batoning for the last few years. I've failed miserably. Can be had for under a hundred bucks.

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Hey fellas, in post 15, the OP said this...
Update:
I bought an ESEE 3. But one of the customized versions;

ES3HMK-BRK model 3 Traditional Handle
 
The Lansky guided rod system with diamond stones is what I would recommend to learn how to raise a burr and sharpen a knife.
 
Thanks to all the helpful info. I've opened a new tab for each of your suggestions. I'll go look them over since you all took the time to suggest them. I do have that ESEE-3 on the way.

I"m just hoping for a blade that retains its edge longer than the BudK blade I have on my waist right now... thats all. I have found that if I hold the knife firmly at a given angle that I CAN get an edge using an 800 grit King stone.

I have also learned that when you haven't much feeling left in your fingers that holding the blade against the stone using your fingernails as the guide for a consistent blade angle is a bad idea. Who would have guessed that a stone meant to remove steel would also remove fingernails. I never thought about it, and never felt a thing, until I saw blood and decided to investigate. That was a couple months recovery waiting for the nails to grow out. And keeping them bandaged so the now horseshoe shaped fingernails didn't catch on everything or let dirt and such on the nail-bed. What a dope! But I did get my first decent edge from a stone sharpening, wish it would have lasted.

I then went searching for ACTUAL angle guides. I found they seldom have very good reviews. And some folks state those guides all suck and I shouldn't use even them. But I think I'll buy some guides anyway. And another finer stone while I'm at it.

I also tried an Edge Pro Sharpening system, but I dont have the physical ability to make that work well, nor room to set it up and leave it.


In any case, the ESEE-3 will be here tomorrow. and I do have plenty of dull knives to practice with before the ESEE will need touch up...hopefully. And I guess I'll go agaisnt all those haters of angle guide for sharpening and buy a set with two sizes.

Thanks again everyone!
 
gtwnys said:
Thanks to all the helpful info. I've opened a new tab for each of your suggestions. I'll go look them over since you all took the time to suggest them. I do have that ESEE-3 on the way.

I"m just hoping for a blade that retains its edge longer than the BudK blade I have on my waist right now... thats all. I have found that if I hold the knife firmly at a given angle that I CAN get an edge using an 800 grit King stone.

I have also learned that when you haven't much feeling left in your fingers that holding the blade against the stone using your fingernails as the guide for a consistent blade angle is a bad idea. Who would have guessed that a stone meant to remove steel would also remove fingernails. I never thought about it, and never felt a thing, until I saw blood and decided to investigate. That was a couple months recovery waiting for the nails to grow out. And keeping them bandaged so the now horseshoe shaped fingernails didn't catch on everything or let dirt and such on the nail-bed. What a dope! But I did get my first decent edge from a stone sharpening, wish it would have lasted.

I then went searching for ACTUAL angle guides. I found they seldom have very good reviews. And some folks state those guides all suck and I shouldn't use even them. But I think I'll buy some guides anyway. And another finer stone while I'm at it.

I also tried an Edge Pro Sharpening system, but I dont have the physical ability to make that work well, nor room to set it up and leave it.


In any case, the ESEE-3 will be here tomorrow. and I do have plenty of dull knives to practice with before the ESEE will need touch up...hopefully. And I guess I'll go agaisnt all those haters of angle guide for sharpening and buy a set with two sizes.

Thanks again everyone!
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I believe Esee recommends the SharpMaker from Spyderco. That said, since you have started free handing on a stone why not continue? I use a inexpensive Norton two sided stone that I got from the hardware store and a cheap ceramic rod for finishing the edge and touch ups. Watch some videos online and start on your cheap knives. It is a skill that once learned will pay off huge in the future.
 
I suggest something from Esee or Tops. 1095 is usually easy to sharpen and takes a very nice edge.
 
The best fixed blade I have ever used in the field is a Spyderco Moran drop point. It is the right size, right price, not too big or heavy, and has a great grip, great sheath, easy to sharpen steel, perfect for field dressing deer, just a great fixed blade, IMHO. Here is a video about the Spyderco Bill Moran Drop Point fixed blade.


And buy a Sharpmaker. It makes sharpening fast and easy. Check out this video (and the following three videos) about the history of cutting edges and how the Spyderco Sharpmaker came into existence and what it can do. A lot of knife folks don't know that the Sharpmaker was the first Spyderco knife product made. I guess after sharpening a bunch of lousy knives, the Spyderco folks decided they could make a better knife for those in the trades.

 
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gtwnys said:
Thanks to all the helpful info. I've opened a new tab for each of your suggestions. I'll go look them over since you all took the time to suggest them. I do have that ESEE-3 on the way.

I"m just hoping for a blade that retains its edge longer than the BudK blade I have on my waist right now... thats all. I have found that if I hold the knife firmly at a given angle that I CAN get an edge using an 800 grit King stone.

I have also learned that when you haven't much feeling left in your fingers that holding the blade against the stone using your fingernails as the guide for a consistent blade angle is a bad idea. Who would have guessed that a stone meant to remove steel would also remove fingernails. I never thought about it, and never felt a thing, until I saw blood and decided to investigate. That was a couple months recovery waiting for the nails to grow out. And keeping them bandaged so the now horseshoe shaped fingernails didn't catch on everything or let dirt and such on the nail-bed. What a dope! But I did get my first decent edge from a stone sharpening, wish it would have lasted.

I then went searching for ACTUAL angle guides. I found they seldom have very good reviews. And some folks state those guides all suck and I shouldn't use even them. But I think I'll buy some guides anyway. And another finer stone while I'm at it.

I also tried an Edge Pro Sharpening system, but I dont have the physical ability to make that work well, nor room to set it up and leave it.


In any case, the ESEE-3 will be here tomorrow. and I do have plenty of dull knives to practice with before the ESEE will need touch up...hopefully. And I guess I'll go agaisnt all those haters of angle guide for sharpening and buy a set with two sizes.

Thanks again everyone!
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I would stay away from guides that are meant to be used on a traditional sharpening stone. Not much different from sharpening free hand.

If you want to take human error and physical ability out of the equation and you want to avoid power equipment (which can wreck a blade quickly), I would recommend a guided rod style sharpener.

The base Lansky system is decent and costs about $30 most places. Lowes sells something similar under a different brand name. Get a medium diamond stone for the system and it's good for most sharpening. This will reliably produce very good edges, but it does require some set up and stick to-it-ness.
 
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