Recommend a sharpener for backpacking.

Dc3 or Dc4.. When using the smaller stones I often use a circular motion and find the smaller Dc3 more than adequate.
 
Ankerson said:
I carry one of these EZ Lap Diamond sharpeners.

EZLM.gif
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That sharpener has messed up more Lile survival knives than I care to think about.. If the knife had not been supplied with this thing the world would be a better place and fewer knives would be scratched to hell... The Ezcrap can work but usually they are far too coarse for anything other than knocking the burr off of a lawnmower blade...
 
hoopster said:
Okay, I've just about settled on the DMT mostly because I like the idea of a handle, but not sure which two grits to choose. Assuming I've got a belt on that I can strop with and need to resharpen after normal camp chores (hard use but no knife throwing or chopping rocks :D).
Should I opt for the coarse/fine or the fine/extra fine? There may also be the possibility of sharpening a hatchet or shovel.
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I'd still like to get opinions on this. I'm estimating the Fallkniven DC-4 to be equivalent to the DMT fine/extra fine. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
For the Diafold DMT sharpener I would go with Fine/ extra fine. The fine is course enough for me and the extra fine is just enough to make the edge smooth.
 
mbhanzo said:
That sharpener has messed up more Lile survival knives than I care to think about.. If the knife had not been supplied with this thing the world would be a better place and fewer knives would be scratched to hell... The Ezcrap can work but usually they are far too coarse for anything other than knocking the burr off of a lawnmower blade...
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The EZE Lapp Sportsmens hone is "fine" grit and is extremely effective for field use if used gently like a chefs steel. I take some sandpaper when it's new and knock off the coarser "new" grit. Contrary to what mbhanzo claims, I think it is an effective piece of kit (I've been using mine for at least 20 odd years now) and will sharpen virtually any blade steel very well. I usually will carry this with one of the ceramic options I describe in what follows.

Other effective hones I prefer are the Spyderco Profile hones in medium and fine grit ceramics and the Doublestuff, also with two grits laminated together in a single stone. I use the Profile hones like a chefs steel. They're light, easy to use and put a remarkable edge on a knife that already has an effective edge bevel. Can you say "screamin sharp"?

I also like the DMT Diafolds, especially the ceramic (2200)/XXfine (1200 grit) or the XXX fine (8000 grit)/ XXfine (1200 grit). They're also very, very light, easy to use and put a remarkable edge on a knife that already has an effective edge bevel.

The Fallkniven DC3 and DC4 have had a bad reputation for falling apart and requiring regluing. If you get a good one, you'll enjoy using it with it's dual grit options.

Hope this helps.

Be safe.

NJ
 
Stay away from pocket sharpeners, I've only ever had one that I actually liked. It was a black Smiths one with the serrated fold out sharpener; it worked good for machetes and hatchets, kept it away from my good knives (I always usea better system for those) but it put a decent edge on my cheaper work knives. I can't find it though, I haven't seen it for a few months.
 
Native Justice said:
The EZE Lapp Sportsmens hone is "fine" grit and is extremely effective for field use if used gently like a chefs steel. I take some sandpaper when it's new and knock off the coarser "new" grit. Contrary to what mbhanzo claims, I think it is an effective piece of kit (I've been using mine for at least 20 odd years now) and will sharpen virtually any blade steel very well. I usually will carry this with one of the ceramic options I describe in what follows.

Other effective hones I prefer are the Spyderco Profile hones in medium and fine grit ceramics and the Doublestuff, also with two grits laminated together in a single stone. I use the Profile hones like a chefs steel. They're light, easy to use and put a remarkable edge on a knife that already has an effective edge bevel. Can you say "screamin sharp"?

I also like the DMT Diafolds, especially the ceramic (2200)/XXfine (1200 grit) or the XXX fine (8000 grit)/ XXfine (1200 grit). They're also very, very light, easy to use and put a remarkable edge on a knife that already has an effective edge bevel.

The Fallkniven DC3 and DC4 have had a bad reputation for falling apart and requiring regluing. If you get a good one, you'll enjoy using it with it's dual grit options.

Hope this helps.

Be safe.

NJ
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Like I said.. It's too coarse.. You even admit yourself the need to smooth them out.
 
DMT Fine/Extra Fine for me. The fine is still coarse enough to do real sharpening, the Extra Fine puts a decent final edge (after initial breakin - the initial finish they produce is fairly coarse). Diamonds tend to sharpen a little coarser than their "grade" implies, so even the EF is not as fine as, say, a fine ceramic or Arkansas stone.
 
mbhanzo said:
That sharpener has messed up more Lile survival knives than I care to think about.. If the knife had not been supplied with this thing the world would be a better place and fewer knives would be scratched to hell... The Ezcrap can work but usually they are far too coarse for anything other than knocking the burr off of a lawnmower blade...
Click to expand...

The one I have really isn't that bad, it's the model M, 600 grit, and I know what I am doing with it so I don't scratch up my knives. It works very quick, just a few strokes and the edge is sharp again. I only use it on my field blades though when in the field and not really very often as my knives tend to hold an edge very well.
 
In your case I'd probably go coarse/fine. Gives you the ability to touch up a slightly damaged blade or just do a light touch up. The coarse is good for hatchets/axes too.
 
go with the coarse % fine
if processing game a light touchup on the fine
if doing exstensive wood work maybe a lick or two on coarse
if diamonds are new to yourself,use light strokes
diamonds cut much faster than other mediums
it's hard to imagine but diamonds are thousands of times harder than any steels
maybe one of the forum geologists will post a chart showing realative hardness scales
 
I've used the DMT credit-card sized sharpening cards for a while now, and I think it's great when you can fit them in your wallet! I have the fine and extra-fine, with a patch of leather glued on the backside of the fine one. I've added polishing compound to it to give me great edges. I made a small leather slip pouch for them so they hold together and don't make a mess in my pocket.

I think they are the best in terms of versatility and volume/weight.

-Henri
 
I have one of the TINY Benchmade "Field Sharpeners" made by "Redi-Edge." While it is not the best sharpener since it uses carbide bits to remove stock, it actually works better than any other of its type that I've used... and it is Tiny and fool-proof! I could not think of a better $12 spent.
 
This one works very well for me. The blue side is 325 grit and the red side is 600 grit.
dmtfwfc.jpg
 
w said:
This one works very well for me. The blue side is 325 grit and the red side is 600 grit.
dmtfwfc.jpg
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I can't decide because both styles have pros and cons. I'll just get this one and one of the small stones as well. Thanks for all the advice guys. Anyone know a reputable place with a good selection of sharpeners?
 
Here is a great place to deal with. $28.95.
fwfc_1.jpg
 
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