Recommend a steel for me.

I like 14C28N because it is tough and stainless, but I find it to have slick edges compared to other steels. I think that is due to the fine grain structure.

Maybe finish it at 600 grit or below if you like edges that bite into the material.
 
katguy said:
I like 14C28N because it is tough and stainless, but I find it to have slick edges compared to other steels. I think that is due to the fine grain structure.

Maybe finish it at 600 grit or below if you like edges that bite into the material.
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I found that with AEB-L on an occasion where I was going to cut a thorny vine that my dog was getting himself into. It skated and didn't bite into the woody vine as expected. Finishing with a lower grit will help remedy that.
 
Maximumbob54 said:
14C28N is NOT going to blow your mind with holding an edge. What it will bow your mind with is how keen of an edge you can put on it and how fairly easy it will be to make it so. Now it's up to you to find a design you like and get one!!! A cursory look at just Knife Center alone shows well over a thousand options and just under that for folders. If you want a real budget buster then I highly recomend a Ruike P801 and if you want US made and don't mind assisted opening I love my Kershaw Blur and Leek. Another favorite is the Civivi Button Lock that locks both open and closed and opens with a flip of the wrist. Getting back to US made, Kershaw just released the Bonneville that looks pretty decent for the asking price. Tons of options...
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In my usage 14C28N holds an edge just fine. It is also easy to sharpen to a screaming edge, and is even pretty resistant to damage.

That’s through frequent usage in several knives over the course of several years.
 
How how would you rate 14c28n and aeb l against 420hc from buck? Step up or a step down? I really like the buck 420hc, and their Older 440. Heck I don't mind 1095 rusting even but it can be hard to find it tempered hard enough to do well.
 
I’d pick aebl or 14c or MagnaCut or one of the tool steels mentioned above.

In my experience Nitro v isn’t all that stainless in my environment. I’ve had it rust on pretty much every knife I’ve own, and probably amounting to half a dozen makers. For me it’s a pass on this steel. I’ve actually completed a salt spray test and it’s first to rust of all my stainless steels after about an hour. Sooo that’s my take on it.
 
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what's your budget? I see some sales on various buck 110 and all the spyderco's. After reading this thread the Spyderco manix XL in cruwear and micarta seems like a good combo of easy to sharpen, tough, holds an edge... could do worse, but it's around 180bucks... similar price for a Spyderco PM2 in magnacut....meanwhile i see buck 110 with 420hc around $90. If you upgrade the Buck110 steel to magnacut then it's a $200 knife!

Also, S30v is a hard steel to sharpen in my opinion. The subsequent steels in that line, S35vn and S45vn are easier to sharpen.

But the easiest knives for me to sharpen, in my personal experience, have been cruwear > 80crv2 > magnacut > 3v > s35vn > s45vn.
 
Maximumbob54 said:
Spy-27 from Spyderco or S35VN.
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Yup ! ! !
That was what I was thinking at work today when I recalled this thread.

(I was using SPY 27 at the time . Super happy with this stuff ! Easy to sharpen ; does not require diamonds . . . much better , edge holding wise , than the others mentioned in OP . Sure I like 440 and 1095 . This is better . Also it was specifically Designed as a blade steel (most everything else was for other purposes and some knife maker or other had to "put up with" what was available at the time .)

Of course S30V was designed as a blade steel and it works but I agree with the general lack of ability to hold a high degree of sharpness long term . I much prefer it mirror edge . I've had pretty good long term higher sharpness going that way . Takes diamond because it is 4 % Vanadium / use some diamond on your final passes if you haven't been .

Also if you like 1095 then you will fall in love with M4 . M4 is like what 1095 would be once you get to heaven . (! ! !)
Likes a bit of diamond too. Stays stupid sharp better than about anything though . M4 is my number one first choice in a blade steel and I have most everything else too .
 
Wowbagger said:
Yup ! ! !
That was what I was thinking at work today when I recalled this thread.

(I was using SPY 27 at the time . Super happy with this stuff ! Easy to sharpen ; does not require diamonds . . . much better , edge holding wise , than the others mentioned in OP . Sure I like 440 and 1095 . This is better . Also it was specifically Designed as a blade steel (most everything else was for other purposes and some knife maker or other had to "put up with" what was available at the time .)

Of course S30V was designed as a blade steel and it works but I agree with the general lack of ability to hold a high degree of sharpness long term . I much prefer it mirror edge . I've had pretty good long term higher sharpness going that way . Takes diamond because it is 4 % Vanadium / use some diamond on your final passes if you haven't been .

Also if you like 1095 then you will fall in love with M4 . M4 is like what 1095 would be once you get to heaven . (! ! !)
Likes a bit of diamond too. Stays stupid sharp better than about anything though . M4 is my number one first choice in a blade steel and I have most everything else too .
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I'm opposite when it comes to sharpening, I often just hit it with #600 or #800 diamond, strop with diamond compound and call it a day. I never go for mirror edges.

My favorite steel is 3V... but I also like 52100, 80CrV2, S35VN, MagnaCut, K390... never tried M4 though
 
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