Recommendation for convex blade

R RugerNurse , I own two earlier F1 Pilot knives and bought them (one for each rig) specifically for camping and hiking. 10 years ago (maybe longer), there were fewer options and Fallkniven has expanded their line and steels. However, I've never felt any need to upgrade the two I have. Outstanding knives for their intended purpose. An Opinel #8 is a good companion for food prep and other slicing needs. The F1 is a little stout for those tasks IMO.
 
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Crag the Brewer said:
But if you have knives that you already love the handles, etc....?
But you wish they were convex?
Make them that way. Free Hand sharpen on a stone.
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The easy way to get a convex edge is to use a Work Sharp Ken Onion. I find that when I set the angle to 15 degrees, I get 20 degrees near the apex and 10 degrees at the top of the edge bevel, with an average angle of about 15 degrees.

The Ken Onion also works great for tiny knives and machetes.
 
Another Shepherd said:
The easy way to get a convex edge is to use a Work Sharp Ken Onion. I find that when I set the angle to 15 degrees, I get 20 degrees near the apex and 10 degrees at the top of the edge bevel, with an average angle of about 15 degrees.

The Ken Onion also works great for tiny knives and machetes.
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I’ve heard varying opinions on these sharpeners. Some say it ruins the edges because it gets too hot. Seems like a nice system to get an edge back on quickly
 
CSG said:
R RugerNurse , I own two earlier F1 Pilot knives and bought them (one for each rig) specifically for camping and hiking. 10 years ago (maybe longer), there were fewer options and Fallkniven has expanded their line and steels. However, I've never felt any need to upgrade the two I have. Outstanding knives for their intended purpose. An Opinel #8 is a good companion for food prep and other slicing needs. The F1 is a little stout for those tasks IMO.
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That’s my biggest hangup in getting one is the 0.2” thickness. Seems too stout for a small blade like that. I thought about the S1, a bit bigger with a 5” blade. I always have a medium size SAK on me for slicing up food also
 
RugerNurse said:
I’ve heard varying opinions on these sharpeners. Some say it ruins the edges because it gets too hot. Seems like a nice system to get an edge back on quickly
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It's probably ok, If you are taking off alot?
But I'd not dwell on the blade for too long, and id dip in water on Every pass.

Otherwise it looks to burn easily. Be careful
 
RugerNurse said:
I’ve heard varying opinions on these sharpeners. Some say it ruins the edges because it gets too hot. Seems like a nice system to get an edge back on quickly
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Knife Grinders, Australia, did tests and found that the coarse belt did not overheat even at high speed. Finer belts should be run at low speed, and you should probably pull the knife through faster than the recommended one inch per second.

There is experimental evidence that, "... done correctly, belt sharpening is certainly viable. Not superior but done correctly not inferior to hand sharpening either."
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...f-edge-retention.1902351/page-2#post-21602363
 
Another Shepherd said:
Knife Grinders, Australia, did tests and found that the coarse belt did not overheat even at high speed. Finer belts should be run at low speed, and you should probably pull the knife through faster than the recommended one inch per second.

There is experimental evidence that, "... done correctly, belt sharpening is certainly viable. Not superior but done correctly not inferior to hand sharpening either."
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...f-edge-retention.1902351/page-2#post-21602363
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Heck I was there!
 
Some posts have been moved offline as they run counter to the guidelines for the discussion forums.
 
Another Shepherd said:
And that is why I find the results credible even though they have not been published in a peer-reviewed metallurgy journal. :)
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I think a big thing with using that type of sharpener is that people won’t all apply the same amount of pressure or time with passes, so heat may generate much faster for some users (aside from knife steels/thicknesses). A maker here I respect extremely highly does not want them used on the majority of his knives due to risk of potential heating issues. (Obviously expertise has a huge impact on using anything as intended).
 
The convex edge on the F1 is why some casual users might choose to find a knife with a different grind. As I said, when I bought mine, there were fewer choices than today but the Fallkniven is a very good knife for the purposes it was designed for. I've used mine very little because I have them in case I need that kind of knife but I rarely do and I'm not a bushcrafter, I'm a vehicle based camper. I try to live light on the land (campspot).
 
I have a heavy duty warncliffe trapper in O1 from Don Hanson of Sunfish Forge with a convex grind. He told me to use 400 or 600 grit sandpaper on leather on top of wood. Under the sandpaper I sometimes use cardboard on wood instead of leather on wood. Works for me. I pull towards me with a little bit of a roll. You can put a convex edge on a standard blade in this manner. I did on a Buck Mayo.
 
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