Recommendations for a hunting knife

G

gray

Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
6
It's strange with all the decent steel I have I don't have a hunting blade and I'm in need of some suggestions. Here's the requirements as I see them:
1. Extended cutting/slicing ability, unzipping elk and deer.
2. Caping finesse.
3. Grip when wet but easy cleanup in the field
4. Substantial enough to cut through heavy cartilage/sinue/unhinge big bone joints
5. Weight is always a factor..lighter is better. We hike out west.
5. Price not more than $200

Thanks for your ideas.
Gray
 
www.dozierknives.com

D-2 tool steel, and made by a man that learned the trade from Bob Loveless himself! :thumbup:

I prefer the "General Camp and Hunting" but Bob Dozier has a knife for just about everty need. :)

Dozier knives are very popular out here in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. And for good reason!
 
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2nd on the Dozier. You will not be disappointed. They are a little more than your range, but more than worth it.
 
Ben Dover said:
www.dozierknives.com

D-2 tool steel, and made by a man that learned the trade from Bob Loveless himself! :thumbup:

I prefer the "General Camp and Hunting" but Bob Dozier has a knife for just about everty need. :)

Dozier knives are very popular out here in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. And for good reason!
Click to expand...

Isn't the D2 brittle? When do you know when to get D2 or 440c or the like?
 
johnnyKnives said:
Isn't the D2 brittle? When do you know when to get D2 or 440c or the like?
Click to expand...

D-2 isn't brittle. Especially that heat treated by Dozier.

It holds an edge better than most other steels, but it isn't a prybar or hatchet. The "brittle" reputation comes from people who don't know how to use a knife and try to make it into a prybar or hatchet.
 
dont forget knives of alaska. the better portion of their line of knives is d-2. they have a couple you can get in s30v and 154cm, but d-2 is a great way to go. ive always been really impressed with knives of alaska, and ive never heard anything bad about them, with the exception of people who do know how to sharpen. it would almost be worth it to get an outdoor edge swingblade as well. it would be a good backup knife, and the open end guthook on that knife is really awesome.
 
+1 on Knives of Alaksa. I have the Wolverine hunter.It is in D2 takes and holds an edge.I have used it extensively for hunting all types of big game.

Mike
 
The last time I checked, Cabela's still had a handful of the rubber-handled Buck Alaskan Guide Vanguards left in S30V. You could do a whole lot worse for $90.
 
Bark River has a drop point hunter that should work great. I know I am going to get one.
 
Knives of Alaska "Cub Bear" (440c) is a popular caping knife that leaves money left over for a second heavier knife.

Dozier's D2 heat treat is said to be the best and will cut (but not pry) all season, let alone all day. Dozier prices pretty much put them over your budget but add $50 and it's time to visit AG Russell.

IMG_0426.jpg


IMG_0424.jpg
 
For what you are describing, you really need at least two knives.
A good caping knife is usually not going to be up for the heavy work like joints,
and a knife more suited to the heavy work is not going to be ideal for caping.

A nice drop point for the general work, and a dedicated caper if you desire.

I don't have an actual caping knife. I carry a couple of slipjoints for fine work when needed.

As mentioned, Dozier makes a great knife although a little out of your price range.
Bark River makes some excellent knives, with lots of options.
Also mentioned is the Knives of Alaska, which I haven't used, but get great reviews.

You might also keep an eye out in the makers section. There are some members here that make nice looking knives and usually at a very fair price.

There are still people that do everything with a 30 dollar Buck 110. Its all personal preference and YMMV

BTW.. Nice looking BRK's VL
 
Interesting suggestions and comments thanks. Given me some options.. the $200 limit is appx.
 
What about the Fehrman Peace Maker?

3b926890.jpg


Blade Size: 4.00" Long x 1.25" Wide x 0.19" Thick
Overall Length: 8.50"
Steel: CPM-3V
Hardness: 57-59 Rc
Overall Weight: 7 oz. w/o sheath
Handle: Linen Micarta
Standard Cost: $180 (Black Crinkle Finish), $210 (Satin Finish)
 
gray said:
It's strange with all the decent steel I have I don't have a hunting blade and I'm in need of some suggestions. Here's the requirements as I see them:
1. Extended cutting/slicing ability, unzipping elk and deer.
2. Caping finesse.
3. Grip when wet but easy cleanup in the field
4. Substantial enough to cut through heavy cartilage/sinue/unhinge big bone joints
5. Weight is always a factor..lighter is better. We hike out west.
5. Price not more than $200

Thanks for your ideas.
Gray
Click to expand...

johnnyKnives said:
Isn't the D2 brittle? When do you know when to get D2 or 440c or the like?
Click to expand...

gray said:
Thanks, hadn't thought of Dozier. Was looking at the Rat Cutlery.
Click to expand...

Ben Dover said:
D-2 isn't brittle. Especially that heat treated by Dozier.

It holds an edge better than most other steels, but it isn't a prybar or hatchet. The "brittle" reputation comes from people who don't know how to use a knife and try to make it into a prybar or hatchet.
Click to expand...

Gray,
The jobs you listed in your opening post are jobs at which Dozier D2 excels.

If you wanted to baton wood, I might suggest Rat Cutlery 1095.
 
I have always been a big fan of the Buck 192 Vanguard as an overall hunting blade. Even though I am a knife guy, I keep using the buck that I got from Cabela's in S30V steel. Cabela's had their Alaskan Guide series in S30V steel, but when I just checked, it is not on there site any more. It may now be gone. If you can get one, you will not be disappointed. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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