Recommendations for Machete

Kimjune: thanks for the info. Those links are really thourough.

However, the pommel is just an addition of more mass. I want to keep the overall mass as low as possible. We'll see what happens.

Bikermikearchery: thanks to you too.
I find it interesting that the top three knives are the ones you listed and seem to be partial to. Although I respect the kukri, I'm trying to get away from the recurve blade, but I want to keep the offset hande-to-blade angle.

I appreciate you input, especially because its based on experience and experimentation... which like I said is the last word. (BTW 3/8" is a beefy blade!)

thanks
 
The top Bolo is the one that is 3/8' thick, and its only that thick just in front of the handle. Tapers both to the butt and the point.
There are much better kukris than the one I have. I was given this one and had to do a lot of grinding and re-heat treat the blade to make it a reasonable chopper.
The last two knives are my only commercially made big knives. A Becker and a Ka-bar, Good knives just knot long enough at 9" blades to be a good jungle knife.
 
Do all the math you want, there is a simpler place to look. Consider historical designs from type of blade you are trying to build. Aboriginal technology often proves more clever than anything a group of engineers can design.
 
I agree. Were you refering to any specific culture or design? If so, let me know, I'll check it out.

Whats the deal with Becker? I gather they are not being manufactured anymore... but does anyone know where I can get them?

Thanks
 
I see hatchets being mentioned as poor at brush clearing because of a lack of acceleration. Undoubtably this is true, but it isn't the only, or even the main, reason hatchets aren't optimal for this work. The thickness of the blade pays more of a role than the rate of acceleration, from my experience. The length of the cutting edge also plays a large role. The technique employed in swinging the tool also plays a role in what is most effective. When the balance point is more towards the tip, wrist snap can play a bigger role, much like in swinging a baseball bat, a hammer, or a golf club. You can make the blade travel in a longer arc and develop more speed if you use more wrist action, which is promoted by having the balance point closer to the tip. Of course, this makes the "sweet spot" smaller and more important, and moving the balance too far forward can negate any benefit by causing a slower swing due too forearm strength issues. If Patriqq swings a hammer a lot, he can probably make a weight forward design perform very well, and can probably handle more weight towards the tip than most folks, especially on a smaller blade.

Todd
 
L6 STEEL :D
Send it to Paul Bos and he'll heat treat it to the proper RC which will probably be in the range of 57-59. It makes a super tough blade! Annealed L6 grinds like butter and it throws sparks like you never seen so put your dip bucket under the contact wheel to catch the fire. I've started fires with a build up of the dust on the wood floor of my shop. It stays hot for along time!
 
I'm convinced.... L6 L6 L6.

What do you guys have to say about rust? (I read it will rust like crazy...true?)

Clean it, dry it, and oil it?

On that subject, what kind of set-up do you need to coat a blade production-style?

Does anyone provide this as a (small order) service?

thanks
 
When I first started making knives I polished the blade up real slick and shiny and that made them more rust resistant. I guess the steel gets closed up so moister doesn't get into the surface as easy. Later on I started using ceramic beads for a nice bead blasted satin finish. On L6 it looks real nice, almost like parkerizing on a gun. I learned that here on the forums! It also made the blades hold up better to rust. I used Outer's Gun and Reel cloths. They're great for cleaning your blades and keeping them from rusting.
 
patriqq-
I hope I'm not discouraging you with this stuff; by all means get out there and create something! That's far better than sitting and just thinking about it. But I'd encourage you to keep an open mind, and evaluate your prototype's performance with honesty and as little bias as possible.

However, the pommel is just an addition of more mass. I want to keep the overall mass as low as possible.

No, the pommel is not just another lump of mass. It can greatly change the impact dynamics, giving you added cutting power near the tip for practically free. (if done properly)

I am interested; but I think experience and experimentation are the last word.

I also am speaking from experience, coupled with experimentation. For example, check out this thread where I apply these principles to increase the performance of my khukri.

Do all the math you want, there is a simpler place to look. Consider historical designs from type of blade you are trying to build. Aboriginal technology often proves more clever than anything a group of engineers can design.

Yeah, the first thing that came to mind here would be something like a bolo or somethin', to fill the stated requirements. The only edged tools I can really think of that have a mass distribution more like a hammer, are hatchets and axes. It doesn't seem like this idea of making a knife with a bunch of mass clustered at the very end has proven worthwhile that I can think of. Likewise there are plenty of swords with pommels, and plenty without- optimized for different applications.

I see hatchets being mentioned as poor at brush clearing because of a lack of acceleration. Undoubtably this is true, but it isn't the only, or even the main, reason hatchets aren't optimal for this work. The thickness of the blade pays more of a role than the rate of acceleration, from my experience. The length of the cutting edge also plays a large role.

I figured the cutting edge length would be kinda obvious, but have to disagree on the thickness being more important than accelleration. My Wetterlings hatchet has a nice thin edge; not appreciably thicker than most chopping knives. And when you're cutting through plants only 3/8" thick, the thickness of the poll never comes into play. Tough weeds like greenbriar, wild (multiflora) rose, etc., really depend on speed to get through. Even with nearly full arm swings, a hatchet has real trouble lopping them off. And you'd really wear yourself out trying to keep that hatchet moving at max speed. Conversely, a lighter brush knife can snick them off with just a flick of the wrist. I pretty much agree with most of the rest of your post.

a knife is not a hammer, at least it shouldn't be. The balance is different. If you were to put a pommel on the lead hammer, you'd get a better swing at it and drive nails faster.

I haven't explored the details of the impact mechanics of hammers/axes, but right off the bat I'll bet you a dollar this wouldn't work. If it did, then the tool we call a hammer today would have included a large counterweight at the back of the handle for the past millenium.

Speaking of impact(which is the same as momentum)

Quote:
F (force) = m (mass) x v (velocity) ^2 (squared)

I might be misinterpreting you here, but thought it would be prudent to point out something with an example. If you swing a straight steel rod, equal in mass all along its length, where do you get the most impact power? If you're being too simplistic with the above equation, at first it would seem that the tip should strike with the most energy. After all, it has the same cross section (mass at that point) as the rest of the rod, and it's moving the fastest. But this is not true. The tip's inertia is only 1/4 of the rod's mass. It is 3/4 of the rod's mass at 1/3 back from the tip. Anyone who's spent some time whacking stuff with sticks and staffs should recognize this immediately. Just pointing it out to keep folks from getting side tracked or getting misconceptions...
 
Its ok; I've got the stubborness of a mule.

Thanks for trying to point me in (what you think) is the right direction.

Patrick
 
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