Recommendations for replacement bearings for KMG (besides Beaumont)

There have been a number of threads in the past that stated that the posters roached their bearings by using grease, so I'd strongly suggest not doing that.

Also, although your description of how to align the grinder makes sense, it makes too many assumptions - for starters, assuming the drive wheel would be square!!! Mine wasn't, which was exacerbated by the drive shaft being bent, as well. Ages ago, Brian Fellhoelter posted a few times about what it took him to get his squared away, and if memory serves, he got it close, but not exactly right - much of which spurred him to make his Ubergrinder. If he still participated here, I'll bet he'd be a great source of information.


scott.livesey said:
get a big square, some magnetic levels, and a 36" piece of PGFS and just start. i would use the drive wheel as my initial reference point. sounds like a nightmare. is there any drawings so you can make a plan? as far as the new bearings, they should come in a box with instructions including grease requirements. most bearings that size are sealed, permanently lubed. if it comes with a zerk, i would grease whether bearings are sealed or not just to keep grinder dust out of the works.
scott
Click to expand...
 
Only add grease for slow speed applications.

Pop the old bearings out with a punch. Put the new ones in the freezer, and they should drop right in. If not, only use the correct size bearing driver, or a socket the same size as the outer race you are pressing in. Should only take a couple light taps. Never drive the inner race. Instant bad bearing.
 
just speaking from industrial experience where we have had 50+ large sealed and unsealed bearings in high dust area. i have a Wilmont LB1000 and most of the grinding dust is around the platen, almost no dust on motor, drive wheel, tension assembly or VFD.
scott
 
So, the "SKF" bearings I ordered off ebay arrived, and I think one or both is fake (i.e., not a real SKF). I knew the sub $40 price was too good to be true. I'll buy replacements from McMaster Carr or another reputable source from now on. I installed the one that looked more legit and tried to get everything trued up, but I think things are still a little wonky. Brian F's post was a big help and I have a better idea of what to do now. When I have a free weekend (and new, quality bearings) i'll try again. Until then I'll run the grinder on the lowest speed pulley.

Here's a pic of the "SKF" bearing that I didn't use; call me crazy but the hole in the inner race looks a little off center:

IMG_0662_zpsckydojft.jpg


Clint, I can send you an email w/ the link to the these, but because I think I they're knock-offs I don't think it'll do much good.
 
East Branch Knives said:
So, the "SKF" bearings I ordered off ebay arrived, and I think one or both is fake (i.e., not a real SKF). I knew the sub $40 price was too good to be true. I'll buy replacements from McMaster Carr or another reputable source from now on. I installed the one that looked more legit and tried to get everything trued up, but I think things are still a little wonky. Brian F's post was a big help and I have a better idea of what to do now. When I have a free weekend (and new, quality bearings) i'll try again. Until then I'll run the grinder on the lowest speed pulley.

Here's a pic of the "SKF" bearing that I didn't use; call me crazy but the hole in the inner race looks a little off center:

IMG_0662_zpsckydojft.jpg


Clint, I can send you an email w/ the link to the these, but because I think I they're knock-offs I don't think it'll do much good.
Click to expand...

Read page four

http://www.irusa.com.br/catalogos/Timken/form638.pdf
 
East Branch Knives said:
I read through page 4 (and pages 3 and 5), but I can't seem to figure out what I should be looking for. Is there something that indicates that the off-center hole is supposed to be like that? If so, that would be awesome.
Click to expand...

That is for the eccentric locking collar.
 
East Branch Knives said:
I read through page 4 (and pages 3 and 5), but I can't seem to figure out what I should be looking for. Is there something that indicates that the off-center hole is supposed to be like that? If so, that would be awesome.
Click to expand...

cam (self-locking) collar

Page three on the document, page four on the PDF reader
 
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