recommendations needed for binoculars...

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Nov 5, 2001
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Greetings all, I discovered the merits of a decent pair of binocs last weekend while turkey hunting. Since I don't have a pair, I am intested in getting some. I'd like to keep the price under $250, maybe even the $100 range. I'm looking for waterproof and somewhat compact.
Thanks in advance for your replies,
Mongo
 
These Russky bino's are great... Lan delivers what's promised...
the only drawback is that the focus settings are so smooth that any sort of touch moves the eyepieces out of focus (on my specimen, others may not have that problem) They're rubber armored, waterproof, they have a rangefinding reticle and they're about a hundred dollars.
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Steiner Predator 8X22. Great little hunting/general purpose binocs.

Paul
 
Mongo, your timing's bad. Somebody just recently sold a pair of Pentax 8x32 DCF WPs in the exchange for $200.00 and it was a STEAL!

When you say compact, you need to define your needs more clearly before a meaningful recommendation can be made. Are you looking for pocket size like a small pair of 8x20s which will have limited usefulness in low light conditions, or will a pair of 8x40 roof prisms fit your idea of compact? If you can't answer that question, it's time to hit a brick & morter store so you can at least get familiar with the overall sizes of the various configurations. Keep in mind that in general, a roof prism design will be more compact than the same magnification in a porro prism design (like the ruskie glasses pictured above), but for the same quality will likely cost more.

Here's a few threads worth reading that have been posted before on this topic:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118034&highlight=binoculars

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228690&highlight=binoculars

Hope some of this is helpful. And remember, never buy binoculars with a zoom function!

John
 
Brunton Eterna 8x25 (waterproof/fogproof)
 
Image quality is controlled by several factors. Exit pupil diameter: divide the objective lens diameter by the power, ex. 40/8 gives 5mm, to get max light to the eye this value should be near your pupil diameter. Most people have pupils in the 5 to 7 mm range.

Second, lens coatings are very important with Phase coatings being the best and most expensive. As a minimum you should get fully multi-coated lenses-that is every surface should be multi-coated. The red coatings you see on cheap binoculars are definitely inferior.

Prisms should be made from BAK 4 glass. BAK 7 is inferior and found in second rate glasses.
 
Steiner Military/Marine 8x30 <$200. Camping, hiking, hunting, toss them in the floorboard of the truck, loan them to friends, football games, baseball games--never too big, never too small, never been disappointed.
May get the 7x50 or 10x50 version one day, but really don't have a need for anything else.

I got a pair of Steiner 8x22 Safari binos recently, and they are nice.
They don't pull in nearly as much light as the 8x30s, and are pretty much useless in lowlight conditions.
They fit what I bought them for, but that wasn't turkey hunting ;)

Definitely take jmxcpter's advice and check them out in person. I've had several outdoors store let me take binos outside around dusk, and compare them to each other, and ones I already owned, which was very nice. Comparing them indoors, under flourescent lighting means nothing.
 
Jmxcpter is very correct about how useless the smaller objectives are in low light conditions. Shego's post about the exit pupil diameter explains why. Excellent lens coating is essential. Pay particular attention to the edges of the images when looking through them. Are they clear or blurry. OwenM's advice about taking them OUTSIDE at dusk is excellent. Try then to look at a street light at least one if not two blocks away and determine how sharp that image is. Very knowledgeable people here in this forum. Listen to them.

Take at least three or four binoculars out at the same time and rapidly switch from one to another AFTER you have prefocused them. How easy are they to focus and how much adjustment is necessary when looking from a hundred yards to a half a mile? I was hunting department manager in a quite large spt good store for 25 years. Listen to what these folks are telling you. Every year two weeks before deer season opened we would have two clerks with six different binoculars outside from dusk to closing. Prices ranged from $18.95 to $650. Nowdays it would be $79.95 to $1300. They came in to buy a $20 pair, but left with $150 - $450 sets after looking through them at that time.

The bad news. You are not going to get anything worth putting up to your eyes for $100. My rule of thumb was spend as much on your binocular as you did on your firearm. $200 on up or you are wasting your money. You will see this immediately when trying out the different brands outside. Stick with known brand names and be VERY careful about "grey-market" imports. Example: Zeiss have a lifetime warranty. But, they are sold on the internet through dealers that are not authorized and the warranty becomes one year. Zeiss USA will not recognize the life time warranty through these dealers. And it is not just Zeiss.

Brands to look for: Zeiss, Steiner, Swarvoski, Cannon, Nikon, Leica, High end Leupolds, Pentax, etc, but no matter what you purchase, find out exactly what the warranty is and WHERE you have to send them for repair if needed.

Don't buy a binocular that is physically too large unless you are never going to take it out of your hunting vehicle. You carry smaller ones, the big ones are never with you when you need them because they are too big and heavy.

If you want waterproof, ask the clerk to put them in a bucket of water while he tells you how good they are. Chat with him for a half hour. If he won't do it, well, maybe they are not as waterproof as he claims. I never had a qualm about doing it for my customers with the waterproof units. If they leaked, I would rather they knew it then, than on a once in a lifetime trip to Alaska where it might rain for a week straight. Good manufactures will replace with a smile. The best manufactures never have to replace.

Try them out before you purchase or at least make sure you can return for full refund, say within a week. That should give you enough time to be sure. We always gave them a week and usually they came back, and bought a better set even if they had to charge the difference.

Excuse the length of this post, this was something I felt very strongly about for many years.
Stay away from the variable power ones. YOU CAN'T HUNT WHAT YOU CAN'T SEE.
 
One more comment:

Throw the budget to the wind and buy a pair of Zeiss Classic 8x40 or 10x40s. You'll never regret it. I got the Classic 10x40s and they are awesome! The link above to the www.betterviewdesired.com site and their review of the new Zeiss Victory IIs reminded me of why I bought the Classics a bit over a year ago. They're a reference design and at the current price are an unbeatable buy.

John

PS: Bad Otter!!! I'm trying real hard to be happy with my 8x20 Bausch & Lomb Legacy's (really nice glasses) and that reference to a $269.00 price on a pair of Leica Trinovids (Normly $429.00- $449.00) is the wrong kind of temptation!
 
Mongo, I was the one who bought those Pentax binocs. I LOVE them! Get some; you won't regret it.
 
You can be pretty much guaranteed outstanding optical quality from the Big Three (Zeiss, Leica, Swarovski) and the prices can be quite steep, but on the other hand you'll save yourself some second-guessing as to if you could have gotten better. European glasses generally use an optical cradle design to hold the lenses and prisms, while Japanese glasses usually epoxy the elements in place. Theoretically, the elements can be knocked out of alignment easier with cradles, but you can get them repaired. With expoxy, you can forget about repairs if your glasses are hit hard enough to disturb the alignment.

Other factors to consider:

Field of view - Wider is usually better.

Close focus distance - Essential if you plan to do birding.

Waterproof & fogproof - Standard for marine binoculars, fogproofing is usually achieved by purging the interior with dry nitrogen so there is no water vapor to condense inside the binoculars.

Eye relief - If you wear eyeglasses 18 mm is a general minimum, the longer the better, and twist up/down eyecups are a plus.

Spherical aberration - You have to test this in person, but look at something with straight lines near the edge of the f.o.v. If they curve too much, you've got bad spherical aberration. I had a Steiner 8x22 monocular that suffered from this. You can also look for chromatic aberration, but you'll probably need a color chart or something.

Weight - Every ounce counts when you're traveling, believe me.

Armor/lens covers - Rubber armor is pretty much standard these days, but not always. I like how Steiner lens covers stay with the glasses, as opposed to the common individual ones that are easily dropped/lost.

Porro/roof design - This refers to the prism layout. Porros are those wider, step-tubed binoculars; roof prism glasses use straight tubes. Roof prism designs are more compact, but require higher tolerances and suffer from more light loss. These can be offset by superior quality and coatings, of course.

I wanted something compact, roof prism design, 8 x <30, weatherproof, long eye relief, phase coating. Pentax 8x28 DCF MP's fit the bill perfectly, at about $200. I also considered the Brunton Eterna 8x25. Then again, I only use my binoculars for hiking and traveling, so evaluate your needs and choose accordingly.
 
SteelDriver said:
I wanted something compact, roof prism design, 8 x <30, weatherproof, long eye relief, phase coating. Pentax 8x28 DCF MP's fit the bill perfectly, at about $200. I also considered the Brunton Eterna 8x25. Then again, I only use my binoculars for hiking and traveling, so evaluate your needs and choose accordingly.


I got a pair of Pentax 8x28 DCF MPs last year. Nice binocs, but the net effect was to make me lust for something even better. There are two things I don't like about the Pentax 8x28: 1) their weight (about 16 oz., a tad more than I consider comfortable for compact binoculars); 2) their bulk, due to the fact that they don't fold completely.
 
I have a question for Maximus Otter, or anyone else who knows about the Leica Trinovids. what is the difference between the Trinovid BCA and the Trinovid BC (the cheaper version). Just what does that "A" indicate? I'm looking at the 10X25 version and I'm wondering if the $50 difference would be worth it. Thanks for any help. Heath
 
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