-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Recommendations on Muti Task Woodcraft Knife
- Thread starter waveone
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2012
- Messages
- 1,300
True, those are not steels you'd associate with tough, but with a good heat treat and decent thickness, a D2 or S3xV blade will not fail you easily.
If toughness is the ultimate goal, agreed - go with other steels, but for a normal allround blade, I'd have no concerns using D2 or S3xV.
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2010
- Messages
- 8,340
I have 6 Bravo-1's, and the lignum vitae handles on the one first pictured are indeed slimmer than normal (not sure why), but it still works quite well for me as I almost always have leather work gloves on when using the knife. Here is a more typical hand-filling Bravo-1 handle shape (this one in Coyote Brown G10):
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2012
- Messages
- 1,949
Quick Follow up.. I do however prefer knives with a forward finger choil incorporated into the blade. It allows for a solid "choke up" and fine detailed work. ie: The Esee shown above. Or its less expensive red-headed step child, The Ontario Rat 5
If you are in a high moisture area and dont want to have to baby the blade, Stay away from SR101. The IMO the only Busse steel worth a darn is the INFI
So recommend a blade made from 1095 but not from 52100 when the corrosion resistance of the two steels is pretty much the same?
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2001
- Messages
- 27,074
Yep.
I only recommended the Savage because he mentioned D2. I'd recommend the Ratmandu over darn near anything in that size range.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2013
- Messages
- 362
For me its mathematics and geography.. No one in Florida likes SR101 and I have seen it rust worse than Ontario 1095 in side by side comparison. Moreover, I can get a Rat 5 for $75 and will deal with a bit of corrosion. But when I spend well more than double that, I would rather have something different.
I posted the pic to show the finger choil and to follow up on a less expensive option to the Esee he was considering. If it were me here in FL, I would take the Bark River in S35VN or a Fallkniven F1-A1 simply because of the stainless qualities.
If I lived in the Desert I would rock and roll with a Ratmandu. But not here.
Nonetheless, I have no idea where this guy lives so we'll leave it up to him.
Sorry for not putting additional info saying that I'm going off of what I see and hear. I try make those details clear most of the time.
Of course I have no problem with anyone more knowledgeable putting my comments down, that frankness is what makes BF so useful.
What I do hear is only about the knives themselves, not the maker. Is he that bad?
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2013
- Messages
- 362
It's based off of a Large Florida Fishing Forum that I belong to where we discuss knives and other gear all the time. SR101 just doesn't make the cut down here. I am sure there are still some who like it, so the words "No one" are incorrect. My fault for the error in semantics. But those that know and use steel on the regular pass on SR101 in high moisture environments. They will however buy 1075, 1085, 1095, and even 5160 because of the price. And yes it will rust similar to SR101 but again its ok for what your paying. This is also why "No one" in FL likes ZDP-189
chiral.grolim
Universal Kydex Sheath Extension
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2008
- Messages
- 6,422
It would take me a while to dig up all the old threads, and a number of the video reviews on youtube have been removed, just as most of the stuff on KF gets censored. The company owner, based on his own comments and treatment of folk (and their money) is ... another story. As for the knives, they are very pretty and come in a wide variety of handle-scale choices. They also have been known for burnt or excessively frail edges that fail readily (potentially due to heavy-handed grinding and quenching post-HT). However, they are very pretty with a lot of designs and customizations easily available and should perform about as well as your everyday Gerber or Buck for only ~5-10x more $$.
Typing such things is likely to cause flaming. There are a lot of avid BRKT fans out there, as there are for a number of companies including ESEE and Busse.
Becker/Kabar offers mostly 1095 spring-steel blades (think lawn-mower, very inexpensive steel) built to be very tough and relatively inexpensive, and they are.
Ontario and ESEE offer similar knives in that steel but with more expensive accessories including a sheath that doesn't suck (often quite good, in fact), thicker/more durable blade coating (but it does increase drag) and micarta scales. The most common complaint about ESEE knives are the small and uncomfortable handles, not including the Junglas which has plenty of handle real-estate and comfort and is touted as among the best knives in that size/thickness.
Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard knives are Bussekin and hailed as the toughest knives. Both companies now use SR101, Busse's version of 52100 ball-bearing steel featuring high toughness and increased edge-retention over anything made from 1095, but depending on how you use your knife you might never notice the difference. Swamp Rat knives are commonly spoken of as featuring the best ergos of the Bussekin, their RatManDu foremost. They have standard offerings and limited offerings that come and go, and also feature a "custom shop" allowing you to customize knives to your personal tastes (which does increase the cost). The current Scrapyard knives are mostly less expensive Swamp Rats, replacing the micarta'd handle with a thick hidden tang beneath light-weight Resiprene C (an amazingly durable rubber) that insulates the hand from temperature changes and impact shock and provides excellent retention beyond the well-thought contouring.
Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard coat their blades with thick stuff like ESEE uses to ward off corrosion. If you get an uncoated blade, it will rust easily if you don't protect it or work a patina. I know I'm not using mine enough when black splotches start forming on the exposed edges
Oh, and these knives don't come with sheaths from the factory, you have to buy or make your own, plenty of makers out there offering such a service.Busse Combat, the parent company, uses proprietary INFI steel that is extremely tough, about as wear-resistant as 154CM, and resists corrosion pretty well... but their knives are very expensive and again, depending on how you use your knives, you may never notice an advantage.
Survive! Knives is a relatively new company and they are currently moving operations from PA to ID. They generated so much interest in the last year that they fell WAY behind in filling their orders but production continues even as they sell off factory-seconds at reduced cost. "They" is really just a couple of people - the owner/designer and his assistant. They produce a design, have it built of premium steel - currently only USA materials including CPM-20CV, S7, & 3V (among the best options for knife steels: very high wear and corrosion resistance vs very high toughness vs an excellent balance of the two) - give it a nice finish with a variety of scale options, add in an excellent kydex sheath (by our own Kiah here on BF) and then sell it for much lower than you might expect for such a well designed and finished tool of such materials! That said, these are not inexpensive knives, and the best way to get your hand on one is either to subscribe to their newsletter (they have a subforum here on BF) or watch the secondary market for one to pop up.
Now those are just a few companies and only my opinion, there are obviously many more, and also all the individual knife-makers out there. You could get something from Buck or Gerber, from Cold Steel or Fallkniven, etc. Depending on how you use your knife, you may not have a problem with D2's low toughness (as was mentioned by C_Becker) - I use folders made of D2 or S30V or 420HC or Aus8 for outdoor work quite frequently with nary an issue. Perhaps more important than the steel you choose is your own ability to maintain it, having the proper skills/equipment to keep it sharp. An Arkansas or India stone may not suffice for sharpening some of these knives, you'll want to have a diamond hone or similar handy. That way, if you DO chip out an edge, you can bring it back to where you need it relatively quickly.
In summary, before paying a premium for a specific steel, check out the company/individual making the knife, how they treat the steel they use and hat sort of use they warranty it for. Then check-out the design itself - blade length and shape and thickness, handle length and shape... If the handle isn't all that comfortable or doesn't provide the retention you need, it doesn't matter how much you paid or what steel it is made of, you'll prefer a different knife. The BRKT Bravo 1 is one of those knives I would steer folk away from due to the poor handle design (including the silly fin). Also check out the weight and balance. The Becker BK-2 is highly regarded as a very tough knife for low $$, but the unskeletonized version is really heavy.
Getting back to your original post, "chopping" and "skinning" suggests they you want a blade length of at least 5" with a reasonably long handle to choke up & down on, something like the Ratmandu or the GSO-5.1. You may not chose either of those, lots of options out there, but here is a review discussing some attributes of such knives including those 2: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...n-to-SYKCO-511-SRKW-RatManDu-Cattaraugus-225Q
And again, I highly encourage you to check-out the knife-makers exchange here on BF. LOTS of one-of-a-kind tools perfectly suited to your needs at reasonable prices come up often. Good luck and have fun!
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2001
- Messages
- 27,074
Swamp Rats are coated. Just oil the edge! It's somewhat ironic to me that people in Florida wouldn't like a knife made by a company called Swamp Rat.
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2012
- Messages
- 1,949
I would agree that a knife choice does need to factor in where someone lives. I personally could care less about a bit of rust I also take very good care of my tools however for someone who is more finicky about that type of thing I see nothing wrong with good stainless offerings. That's what is so great about knives there is one out there for everybody but me personally would take toughness over corrosion resistance but I think to say INFI is the only good steel to come from the Busse shops is a bit over the top because there are plenty of us who own both but still use and prefer SR101.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2013
- Messages
- 362
It obviously bothers you that some people don't like this steel for high moisture environments. I guess you'll just have to accept it at some point and reluctantly realize that your beloved knife isn't perfect in every situation. You will also have to accept that people have different preferences and you can't change everyone's mind. By your philosophy, stainless steel should never exist. Guys like me in FL who live near the ocean should all carry oil in our tackle bags and remember to take excellent care of our blades. I do but most guys don't and want more corrosion resistance. The whole point of S35, Laminates, H1, etc.. is to cater to a specific demographic. If this hurts your feelings, I don't know what to say, but I am not commenting on this topic or thread anymore. All the best.
I don't think he's as invested as you think he is. BF users are already beyond normal when it comes to tool care. We're all perfectionists in the eyes of the public and a little oil really isn't too much of a commitment.
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2011
- Messages
- 1,974
If you live in Florida and only buy stainless you are missing out on a lot of great knives and steels. I am a mile from the beach and have no problem with carbon steel. I leave many carbon knives and machetes outside under a covered patio all year round. I apply a little CLP or WD 40 after use and may get a little surface rust on some edges but it comes right off with use.
Saltwater fishing and boating is another story. That will mess up some carbon steel in a hurry so I select a stainless for those days.
Saltwater fishing and boating is another story. That will mess up some carbon steel in a hurry so I select a stainless for those days.
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2001
- Messages
- 27,074
Hahahahaha!!!!! Buy a clue.
A good percentage of my knives ARE stainless. The only knife I have on me right this second is stainless.... You were saying?
I know "my beloved knife" (lmao) is not perfect in every situation. I just found it hard to believe that the entire state of Florida hates Swamp Rat knives. And you know what? I'm still not convinced.
All I was saying is that if you want superior performance, buy a superior knife. If the rust bothers you, wipe a little oil on the edge. You recommend 1095 just because it's cheaper, even though it rusts worse than SR101. It's just a price break to you. That's fine. Whatever floats your boat.
Why not get to know me better before you bust out the flamethrower?
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2001
- Messages
- 27,074
I don't think he's as invested as you think he is. BF users are already beyond normal when it comes to tool care. We're all perfectionists in the eyes of the public and a little oil really isn't too much of a commitment.
Exactly.
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2001
- Messages
- 27,074
Well, do my eyes deceive me? A Floridian who likes Swamp Rat knives?
FTR-14c has quite a few if I'm not mistaken.... (If I am, my apologies, but I could have sworn I saw pictures of your very enviable collection!)