Recommended knife oil?

I've used 10W Nano-Oil for the past 10 years or so, recently switched to KPL and I'm pretty happy with the results. But it's too early for conclusions, as most oils will lubricate in the short term, but many can dry out/gum up or simply degrade quite quickly. I remember briefly using Muc-Off Wet bicycle chain lube briefly, immediate impressions were amazing. After a few weeks of carrying then a couple of more in the drawer I reach for that knife again and the action feels awful, took the knife apart the lube had a nasty smell (originally had a similar smell to KPL), gone rancid is my guess. It was so sticky it behaved more like glue than lube. Same exact thing had happened to my bike's chain. It was harder to degrease than the stock chain grease too, never buying another product from that company again, or experimenting with lubricants on knives (or bike chains).
 
Kryme said:
I've used 10W Nano-Oil for the past 10 years or so, recently switched to KPL and I'm pretty happy with the results. But it's too early for conclusions, as most oils will lubricate in the short term, but many can dry out/gum up or simply degrade quite quickly. I remember briefly using Muc-Off Wet bicycle chain lube briefly, immediate impressions were amazing. After a few weeks of carrying then a couple of more in the drawer I reach for that knife again and the action feels awful, took the knife apart the lube had a nasty smell (originally had a similar smell to KPL), gone rancid is my guess. It was so sticky it behaved more like glue than lube. Same exact thing had happened to my bike's chain. It was harder to degrease than the stock chain grease too, never buying another product from that company again, or experimenting with lubricants on knives (or bike chains).
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This is why I never ever use regular wd40. Turns sticky after awhile. I use silicone lubricants to avoid that. Or a good quality synthetic motor oil
 
I went through something similar years ago asking about lube for a 1911 since I kept being told I'm doing it wrong. There was a group that said grease turns into lapping compound and would end up wearing away the rails. Then there was a group that said oil just runs away, dries, rubs off, and you're left running metal on metal. I insist this is yet another thing many of us overthink. But I am curious what months later now the choice ended up being.
 
I use copper anti sieze on my slide rails. It's what comes from the factory on a glock. Wouldn't use it on my knives though.

I use silicone spray 99% of the time. Workday it's way in, drys to leave a thin film thar doesn't attract dirty. Waterproofs the steel.
 
Maximumbob54 said:
I went through something similar years ago asking about lube for a 1911 since I kept being told I'm doing it wrong. There was a group that said grease turns into lapping compound and would end up wearing away the rails. Then there was a group that said oil just runs away, dries, rubs off, and you're left running metal on metal. I insist this is yet another thing many of us overthink. But I am curious what months later now the choice ended up being.
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Sibyrnes said:
Am I the only one that uses Benchmade Blue Lube?
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Benchmade Blue Lube is not food safe.
 
Maximumbob54 said:
I went through something similar years ago asking about lube for a 1911 since I kept being told I'm doing it wrong. There was a group that said grease turns into lapping compound and would end up wearing away the rails. Then there was a group that said oil just runs away, dries, rubs off, and you're left running metal on metal. I insist this is yet another thing many of us overthink. But I am curious what months later now the choice ended up being.
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I’ve settled on PTFE, and have some rem oil I may try (I got it when I recently bought a Microtech and have been pleased with it there).
 
I use mineral oil on all of my knives now. It is cheap as chips, food safe, and works as well as any of the more expensive knife lubes out there imo
 
lambertiana said:
Remember when BM used to recommend Militec-1? I still have some of that. Nowadays I usually just used Hoppe's Elite, but I have a number of other options to use when the mood strikes me.
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I remember when Militec-1 was all the rage. I used it for years on pistols and rifles going through the whole treatment process. Years ago I went back to GunScrubber on bore patches and REM Oil on everything else. Cheaper and quicker.
 
For those who really wish to know about lubrication: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/tribology-31340

For me, I keep it simple. It works for my Brown & Sharpe micrometers and Starrett precision tools - And it simply works for my folding knives. I like the aroma too.
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Note! It is also my lube of choice for the chain and other points of lube on my mountain bike. One drop per joint and wipe down 30 minutes later, just like with my knives.
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I never worried about "food grade" as an eight year old in 1957, when I used 30W motor oil on everything and cut up my apple with the same knife. I'm not about to begin fretting about it all these years later. I've got enough on my plate right now dealing with the aftermath of Agent Orange, as well as the air I breathe, the water I drink, and the foods I eat.
"Now, where did I put that apple?"

Note! I speak only for myself, and in no way condemn those who feel differently. Have a grand day everyone.
 
What was the oil that was the hyped product for the AR15 that after some guy had a spectrum analysis done it turned out to be veg oil or something similar??? Whatever it was, that's why I tend to be cheap with these things instead of paying $10 - $20 for fluid ounces in a cute little bottle.

(glances at tiny bottle of Rem-Oil that was my grandfather's second favorite only to WD-40 for just about everything)

Either way I prefer to pay a few bucks for good old 3in1 and miss when it came in a can.
 
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