Recon 1 in CTS-XHP

T

tm1182

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Jun 16, 2016
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I purchased a Recon 1 in XHP a few months ago and when I got it I tried to sharpen it but the edge just rolled (minor rolling that could be felt with fingernail) no matter how many times I tried I couldn't get a decent edge on it. About a month ago I tried again and got I razor sharp with very little effort and using the same dmt and 1000 grit ceramic stones. Any ideas on what's going on? Could the steel be too soft or is it just an easy steel to sharpen?
 
Hard to say, could be a number of things. How much pressure did you use? Applying too much pressure on the stone can cause that problem.

Edit: I forgot to mention, don't forget that diamond plate sharpeners and ceramics are ridiculously hard and abrasive so they can cut the hardest steels pretty easily.
 
If you're suggesting that something has changed in the steel between the first and last time you attempted to sharpen it, I'm gonna say probably not, unless there's some heavy corrosion, molecular destabilization going on.

Something clicked in your mind from going through the motions the first time? Did a couple of things different? Different posture while sharpening?
 
I think it may have been posture but I am surprised at how quickly it will take an edge. I also have a Steel Will Apostate (s35vn) and the cold steel takes an edge in a fraction of the time it takes the Apostate. I thought they would be pretty similar due to the hardness of both of the steels and the fact that they are both powdered steels.
 
S35vn has more Vanadium and some Niobium, very hard carbides! XHP is easy to sharpen. You can always get the burr to roll side to side, the trick is getting it smaller and smaller until it is gone. I don't know anything about your sharpening technique or skill. It can be tricky! I just recently "really" got the hang of sharpening, in the last year, meaning I can get constant results if I try/focus. Before that, I would have good and bad days sharpening, some days I could not get a knife sharp for the life of me, and some I could get any kind of steel sharp. The days I was doing good, I try and do all my knives, ASAP.
So if it is like that, then I would say, start out with the diamond, focus on the correct angles, and start to apply less and less pressure, then switch to ceramic, and do the same.
I have to go back and forth between the two a few times, diamond and ceramic, to get the exact edge I want.
Again, not saying this is the problem, just saying that was my problem!
 
So is XHP considered pretty easy to sharpen? It has been holding the edge for quite a while, especially considering I mostly cut wood and cardboard.
 
Yeah, easy to sharpen, and holds an edge great! That is why I love all these popular blade steels. I can use my 20cv/m390, s30v, xhp, 3V, etc. knives for a really long time, and they just go right back to razor sharp after a few minutes of sharpening! If you can get it back to very sharp easily and it holds it's edge well, I would be very happy!
 
Thanks for the input! I am very happy with it, I can usually restore the edge with a few minutes on the strop
 
from a pointview of physics, easy to sharpen and holding an sharp edge long do not seem to co-exist, because being easy to sharpen means the edge is prone to abraison, which is basically what cutting stuff does to the edge. Or maybe I am missing sth?
 
It's probably easy to sharpen but holds an edge because I use a diamond stone to sharpen it but the hardest thing the blade has to cut is wood or cardboard.
 
Not always. Not to mention plain carbon steels will get sharp very easily and can hold it quite long. Blame vanadium and chromium for your sharpening troubles but generally in stainless you correct, there is always a trade of some kind strop often and save yourself the hassle of taking steel off as much with hard sharpening. You will have to put in some extra work when you do sharpen but it will be much fewer and farther between. You more than likely dmg your edge between sharpening or even when sharpening this time and didn't notice. You have to repair the edge before it can be sharp. I would also wonder if you had put too thin of edge on it?
 
That could very well be the case Idahonotu its already a hollow grind and I always put thinner edges on my knives unless they are for camping or hard use like my RD Tanto, but even that will pass the paper test and shave hair easily.
 
What are you edge angles? I would try something AT least 28-30 inclusive. You should see better results as you go up!
 
I don't use a guided sharpener so I don't know the angle. But it's thin, sometimes I'm afraid to use it because I don't want to split an atom. ;) I'm not that good unfortunately but it is very thin, much more than my other knives
 
tm1182 said:
I don't use a guided sharpener so I don't know the angle. But it's thin, sometimes I'm afraid to use it because I don't want to split an atom. ;) I'm not that good unfortunately but it is very thin, much more than my other knives
Click to expand...
There are many ways to make your own angle guide.check online for different designs that go from simple to elaborate, im sure you will find one somewhere in there that suits you. It will help you get your angles down to a good degree of accuracy and help you hone your skill free hand as well.
 
Idahonotu said:
There are many ways to make your own angle guide.check online for different designs that go from simple to elaborate, im sure you will find one somewhere in there that suits you. It will help you get your angles down to a good degree of accuracy and help you hone your skill free hand as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks man I'll look into it, what angle do you prefer for edc tasks?
 
No problem, im the same way with thin edges but certain steels really perform well with the right edge geometry, for me the steel, grind and task to be used for dictates the angle i take it too. My slysz bowie is at 30 inclusive i believe. i really think 30 inclusive would be a good edc angle at least to start with with cts xhp. I dont own any xhp hollow grinds though but i really think 30 is going to work well for you. Try that and give it some good use and im positive you will see improvement. You can always take it down from there( or up) if you like!
 
sharp_edge said:
from a pointview of physics, easy to sharpen and holding an sharp edge long do not seem to co-exist, because being easy to sharpen means the edge is prone to abraison, which is basically what cutting stuff does to the edge. Or maybe I am missing sth?
Click to expand...

Edge holding is combination of wear resistance, strength and toughness. Which of these attributes is the most important and how they contribute to edge holding depends on what are you going to use your blade for.
So, it's quite possible to have easy to sharpen blade and great edge holding at the same time.
 
I also take a very thin edge angle approach on my CS CTS-XHP blades and haven't had any issues with edge chipping.

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Maybe your first (factory) edge was overheated or came wrong from the factory, and once you passed through it you found the proper, undamaged grind to sharpen.

CAM01913_zpshktegyln.jpg


I use DMTs and Smith's 1000 grit Whita Arkansas stones and I am no sharpening expert by any means, but I can get hair popping edges in a couple minutes with this steel

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.
And edge holding is noticeably better than the old AUS-8. CS did a really great move this year!
 
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