Recon-1 Opening Modification Questions

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CQCGeek89 said:
Hi, I’m new to this forum. I have a Cold Steel Recon-1 50/50 Tanto and I am just wondering if there were any tips to turning this knife into as close to a spring-assisted knife as possible. Like getting the smoothest opening possible. Would Zoom Spout be good for the knife pivot as well? And how many taps with a hammer should I use for the spring when I put it in a vice?
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Polish all contacting surfaces. Do not mess with a hammer...you will most likely ruin the knife. Add a very light amount of lubricant. Snaggletooth mod would be good.

Also...work on developing this skill:0FC0734F-4262-490D-AE6C-11147217C0F2.jpeg

Worked for me. No one messes with me and I avoid conflict.
 
Bigfattyt said:
Hammer taps on the spring in a vice??? [...]

What do you mean "taps with a hammer". If you are talking about taking the locking mechanism apart and bending the spring to make it weaker, sounds like a fine way to screw up the functionality and strength of the internal locking mechanism. Might even screw up the structural integrity of the lock.
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The OP was likely looking for my input, as I had posted in the "best lockup on a folder" thread about a technique I once used to modify the spring tension on a triad lock knife. I disassembled the knife, placed the spring in a vise, and, yup, tapped it really lightly with a hammer a few times and reassembled the knife and tested the lock action. I did this a few times until the action was where I wanted it. The knife suffered no functionality problems thereafter.

I did not come up with this idea, mind you. I had read it previously. Since then, I have also bent the spring on another triad lock knife with pliers, which I find to be a quicker and perhaps more precise method. Some triad locks I have owned have even received grinder treatment to change the lock geometry. Those also fared well, and were perfectly functional and strong knives. These are not difficult mods to perform, and unless one has no concept of patience or restraint, then there is no reason it should lead to a damaged knife.

Full disclosure: I have degraded the function on exactly one knife out of all the knives I have modified. It was a Voyager XL Tanto turned wharnfoot or sheepscliffe, as it were. It's the one with the opening hole instead of the thumbstud. The only reason I messed it up is because I tried to make G10 scales for it by hand, something I had never done before, and my precision with the holes was just not where it needed to be. The knife was able to be assembled, but the fit just didn't allow a full lock cycle. I tried to grind somewhat in the stop pin groove on the tang, in order to get it to function, which it did, but I had sloppy blade play which rendered the knife absurd. I ditched the project, and reassembled it with the factory scales (which I had also modded), and it functioned, but with some noticeable blade play. I alleviated this by applying some CA glue into the stop pin groove in the tang, which resulted in solid lock up for a time, but it has degraded with many lock cycles, and there is now some noticeable blade play again. It is enough to be an annoyance, but not enough to compromise the knife. It's still a decent knife, but it'll never be great. Now I know why so many scale makers refuse to make scales for Recon 1s, Voyagers, Enduras, Delicas, etc.

And OP, why are you planning on being attacked? With situational awareness and a good attitude (humility), you should never be attacked.
 
OP on a serious note, relying on a folder for self defense is not wise. The only time I Have been attacked was in my mid teens and there was no time to grab my knife out of my pocket. Situational awareness is more important and can keep you out of that type of situation
 
slicecream said:
The OP was likely looking for my input, as I had posted in the "best lockup on a folder" thread about a technique I once used to modify the spring tension on a triad lock knife. I disassembled the knife, placed the spring in a vise, and, yup, tapped it really lightly with a hammer a few times and reassembled the knife and tested the lock action. I did this a few times until the action was where I wanted it. The knife suffered no functionality problems thereafter.

I did not come up with this idea, mind you. I had read it previously. Since then, I have also bent the spring on another triad lock knife with pliers, which I find to be a quicker and perhaps more precise method. Some triad locks I have owned have even received grinder treatment to change the lock geometry. Those also fared well, and were perfectly functional and strong knives. These are not difficult mods to perform, and unless one has no concept of patience or restraint, then there is no reason it should lead to a damaged knife.

Full disclosure: I have degraded the function on exactly one knife out of all the knives I have modified. It was a Voyager XL Tanto turned wharnfoot or sheepscliffe, as it were. It's the one with the opening hole instead of the thumbstud. The only reason I messed it up is because I tried to make G10 scales for it by hand, something I had never done before, and my precision with the holes was just not where it needed to be. The knife was able to be assembled, but the fit just didn't allow a full lock cycle. I tried to grind somewhat in the stop pin groove on the tang, in order to get it to function, which it did, but I had sloppy blade play which rendered the knife absurd. I ditched the project, and reassembled it with the factory scales (which I had also modded), and it functioned, but with some noticeable blade play. I alleviated this by applying some CA glue into the stop pin groove in the tang, which resulted in solid lock up for a time, but it has degraded with many lock cycles, and there is now some noticeable blade play again. It is enough to be an annoyance, but not enough to compromise the knife. It's still a decent knife, but it'll never be great. Now I know why so many scale makers refuse to make scales for Recon 1s, Voyagers, Enduras, Delicas, etc.

And OP, why are you planning on being attacked? With situational awareness and a good attitude (humility), you should never be attacked.
Click to expand...


Keyword..... SHOULD
 
slicecream said:
The OP was likely looking for my input, as I had posted in the "best lockup on a folder" thread about a technique I once used to modify the spring tension on a triad lock knife. I disassembled the knife, placed the spring in a vise, and, yup, tapped it really lightly with a hammer a few times and reassembled the knife and tested the lock action. I did this a few times until the action was where I wanted it. The knife suffered no functionality problems thereafter.

I did not come up with this idea, mind you. I had read it previously. Since then, I have also bent the spring on another triad lock knife with pliers, which I find to be a quicker and perhaps more precise method. Some triad locks I have owned have even received grinder treatment to change the lock geometry. Those also fared well, and were perfectly functional and strong knives. These are not difficult mods to perform, and unless one has no concept of patience or restraint, then there is no reason it should lead to a damaged knife.

Full disclosure: I have degraded the function on exactly one knife out of all the knives I have modified. It was a Voyager XL Tanto turned wharnfoot or sheepscliffe, as it were. It's the one with the opening hole instead of the thumbstud. The only reason I messed it up is because I tried to make G10 scales for it by hand, something I had never done before, and my precision with the holes was just not where it needed to be. The knife was able to be assembled, but the fit just didn't allow a full lock cycle. I tried to grind somewhat in the stop pin groove on the tang, in order to get it to function, which it did, but I had sloppy blade play which rendered the knife absurd. I ditched the project, and reassembled it with the factory scales (which I had also modded), and it functioned, but with some noticeable blade play. I alleviated this by applying some CA glue into the stop pin groove in the tang, which resulted in solid lock up for a time, but it has degraded with many lock cycles, and there is now some noticeable blade play again. It is enough to be an annoyance, but not enough to compromise the knife. It's still a decent knife, but it'll never be great. Now I know why so many scale makers refuse to make scales for Recon 1s, Voyagers, Enduras, Delicas, etc.

And OP, why are you planning on being attacked? With situational awareness and a good attitude (humility), you should never be attacked.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. And to answer your question, I don’t EVER plan on getting attacked. This is just one facet in my vast knowledge in self-defense (not to brag). I am going into my 2nd degree black belt in Kenpo and I am expanding my horizon with self-defense DVD’s. When someone wants to try to attack me, I do my best to deescalate the situation using what I learned over the years by saying “I don’t want to fight” while I am setting myself up in a position where I can turn the tables on the attacker so I would be on the OFFENSE and forcing them to go on the DEFENSE.
 
Tjstampa said:
OP on a serious note, relying on a folder for self defense is not wise. The only time I Have been attacked was in my mid teens and there was no time to grab my knife out of my pocket. Situational awareness is more important and can keep you out of that type of situation
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. I have been taking self-defense for almost a decade and I would know not to rely solely on one thing. If I feel like the situation would call for my knife to be brandished (like a certain type of life or death situation) and it goes beyond hand-to-hand combat (which I would assume is rare), then I would simply jab the attacker’s eyes with my fingers before pulling out my knife.
 
https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/practical-tactical.680/

Welcome ! This is our special forum for SD / fighting related topics ^^^ . :)

Cold Steel Tri-ad lock folders are a great choice and will eventually "work in" and become easy enough to fast open .

The wave method is fastest , but you need to practice a backup for failures to completely open . I use the gravity / inertia / shake down as my backup failsafe for the wave .

Of course , never introduce any lethal weapon into a fight unless legally justified and the last desperate resort ! :eek:
 
DocJD said:
https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/practical-tactical.680/

Welcome ! This is our special forum for SD / fighting related topics ^^^ . :)

Cold Steel Tri-ad lock folders are a great choice and will eventually "work in" and become easy enough to fast open .

The wave method is fastest , but you need to practice a backup for failures to completely open . I use the gravity / inertia / shake down as my backup failsafe for the wave .

Of course , never introduce any lethal weapon into a fight unless legally justified and the last desperate resort ! :eek:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions. And thank you for the link that you provided. And I know not to brandish anything lethal unless I was legally justified in doing so and that would be my VERY last resort.
 
CQCGeek89 said:
Thanks for the input. I have been taking self-defense for almost a decade and I would know not to rely solely on one thing. If I feel like the situation would call for my knife to be brandished (like a certain type of life or death situation) and it goes beyond hand-to-hand combat (which I would assume is rare), then I would simply jab the attacker’s eyes with my fingers before pulling out my knife.
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Yeah but what if they saw the eye poke attack coming and dodged or blocked you. They you would have an enemy who is now on ultra high alert. That's when you need that back machete.
 
Mecha said:
Yeah but what if they saw the eye poke attack coming and dodged or blocked you. They you would have an enemy who is now on ultra high alert. That's when you need that back machete.
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Oh , behave ! :p
 
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