The thread about bows has given me the itch. I want to try out a traditional bow, and I like the looks of a recurve. You guys have any tips on what would be a good starter bow? I'm not looking to break the bank, obviously. Also, is 45# a good place to start? Any suggestions would be welcome. Also, how do you gauge what size bow you need? I'm not a particulary big guy (being short sucks) so I need some tips in that department, too. Thanks in advance, fellas!
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
Recurve bow advice
- Thread starter LeeCQC
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 1,976
45# is a good start. Lighter is better for a starter bow. A 35# bow is a very good bow to practice with. it wont were you out and you wont be practicing bad habits.
Check swap meets and yard sales. If you can find one of those solid fiber glass bows that is 60" long and 35# they make great beater bows. Good for bow-fishing and good for loaning out when you get a better bow.
If you like the sport your going to have more than one bow. Just like knives, one for every day carry, one for special purposes, and one just because its cool.
Check swap meets and yard sales. If you can find one of those solid fiber glass bows that is 60" long and 35# they make great beater bows. Good for bow-fishing and good for loaning out when you get a better bow.
If you like the sport your going to have more than one bow. Just like knives, one for every day carry, one for special purposes, and one just because its cool.
mtnfolk mike
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
- Messages
- 10,040
mike has pretty much summed it up... :thumbup:
45#'s a great starter weight.. pulling to much weight in the begining, will definately lead to bad shooting habits... you need to allow the body to build muscle memory.. in turn working on a solid anchor point...
i picked up one of those fiberglass bows that mike is talking about, at our local swap meet.. it was in great shape.. mine was 45#.. i paid a whopping $10 for it..
also be careful when buying used bows, i speak from experience
, they can have defects that arean't easily seen....check out.. www.3riversarchery.com even cabela's has a few cool starter bows..
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2007
- Messages
- 831
I had three old Bear Kodiak Magnum recurve bows dating back to the middle 70s. Over time they developed crazing and cracks. I ended up selling them as collectors items because I was afraid they would crack or delaminate when used. So look over any used bow carefully before purchasing it.
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2002
- Messages
- 3,291
Starting with 35#, is excellent advice. It will allow you to enjoy your shooting from the beginning, without getting tired right away. Once you muscles start to tighten up and get tired, you will want to stop shooting, or you will start creating bad shooting habits, which will keep you from developing consistent accuracy. Shoot every other day, to allow your muscles to rejuvinate in between.
Like was mentioned, picking up a used bow is probably the way to go if you're on a budget. I purchased a 35# Shakespeare years ago for our daughter and now it looks like I'm going to be using it to rebuild my strength after a shoulder injury. It will also help me to relearn a consistent shooting form again. Paid $10.00 for the old Trident and it's only problem was a slightly twisted limb.
Like was mentioned, picking up a used bow is probably the way to go if you're on a budget. I purchased a 35# Shakespeare years ago for our daughter and now it looks like I'm going to be using it to rebuild my strength after a shoulder injury. It will also help me to relearn a consistent shooting form again. Paid $10.00 for the old Trident and it's only problem was a slightly twisted limb.
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2004
- Messages
- 1,011
What everyone else has said. I might add: Longer bow limbs are more stable than short limbs. Not sure what your draw length is, however I would start with a longer recurve (62" to 66") until you get your form and technique developed. Too, some of the shorter bows (draw length factors into this) can cause significant finger pinch because of the steep angle on the string.
-Danny
-Danny
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2003
- Messages
- 29
Check out this website: http://www.tollgatearchery.com/
He's just up the road from me, and I bought a BEAR Kodiak Magnum from him several years ago in like new condition.
I can vouch for the grading of his used bows.
George is a crusty old character, but does have a wealth on knowlege and stands by his products.
Check out his bowstrings, I've watched him make them on occasion and they are great!
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2005
- Messages
- 11,135
Great link.....I love that used snakeskin backed longbow they have for sale!
Good prices on stuff too.....
Good prices on stuff too.....
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2006
- Messages
- 7,021
What do they say about 'the grass is always greener...............'. Being tall sucks more. During the fur trade, it was always the short, stocky guys that were hired because they were less prone to back injuries (less height, less leverage on your lower back) especially considering the heavy loads they were expected to carry.
Trying being tall and working in a customer's basement in the older part of town. It gets hard on the head after awhile (smacking it on the ceiling beams, not to mention the heating vents
)Try getting in to a lot of smaller, fuel-efficient vehicles (becoming more important by the day
) - bring your shoe horn!Try finding over size clothes and shoes.
And it goes on............ but the most important thing of all to remember is, "It's not the size of the package that's important, but the quality of the contents." (Actually, I think it was, " It's not the size of the wand that brings the rabbit out of the hat, but the magic in it." or at least that's what I used to use :thumbup
but you get the idea. Doc
If you want a new bow for warranty you can't find anything that shoots better than a Quinn Stallion.It's a metal riser takedown for about $270. The best thing is you can get light 35# limbs to learn good shooting form and then get another set of heavier hunting limbs later.Starting too heavy will cause you to develope bad shooting form and habits.
If you just don't want metal try a Check Mate but they have a longer wait list unless you find one in stock and getting extra limbs could take several months.
Quinn also makes a wood riser but I don't know anything about them.I know several target guys that have been through a lot of custom bows that really like the Quinn Stallion.
If you just don't want metal try a Check Mate but they have a longer wait list unless you find one in stock and getting extra limbs could take several months.
Quinn also makes a wood riser but I don't know anything about them.I know several target guys that have been through a lot of custom bows that really like the Quinn Stallion.
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2007
- Messages
- 945
Nice thread. . . I was watching some vids of the Olympic archery events last weekend and it kind of got me itching to try my hand at it again. . . I was a halfway decent shot as a kid with a cheap wooden recurve bow that I had, but I haven't picked up a bow in about 15 or 20 years.
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 1,976
How about roll your own. I make all my own shooting gear. doesn't take any fancy tools, just some imagination. The bow in this picture was once a base board. I backed it with hemp string from the craft store.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2006
- Messages
- 7,021
Beautiful work, Mike. I always enjoy that picture and I agree 100% about 'roll your own'. So far, I've only made 1-2/3 bows. The second one is on the tillering tree but I haven't worked on it for quite awhile. I'll have to get back to it.
Ditto on arrows. I guess I'm a little different than most because I prefer arrow making to bow making. The hardest part for me in bow making is deciding when the tillering look right.
Just need more experience, I guess.
Doc
Ditto on arrows. I guess I'm a little different than most because I prefer arrow making to bow making. The hardest part for me in bow making is deciding when the tillering look right.
Just need more experience, I guess.
Doc
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2005
- Messages
- 11,135
Mike thats a gorgeous setup. You do nice work!
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 1,976
I most enjoy using the gear I make. I really like arrow making, but often make them rather plain looking. I invest the time in making them matched in weight and spine. sometimes arrows are on a one way trip. seams a shame to not want to take a shot because you'll break or lose an arrow. I'm using a lighter bow than normal so I can rebuild my arm. Yester day I went stump shooting and took a shot at a sand bank at about 120 yards. It was just to much to resist watching the arrow ark through the air. It fell short and in to a rock pile. By-by arrow. The second arrow was on the mark.
Doc I may have made a few hundred bows, and I still spend hours tillering. When I read that Tim Baker can tiller a bow in 20 minutes I'm stunned.