Recurved field knife: chisel or flat grind?

J

Juramentado

Joined
Aug 23, 2003
Messages
185
I'm considering doing a field / survival knife in either D2 or 440C with a recurved clip point blade about 8" long. I'm trying to decide between a 20 to 25 degree chisel grind or a scandi grind. My rationale for considering the chisel grind is strength. The scandi grind is my second choice, but the sharpness it provides really appeals to me.

I've read a lot about the pros and cons of the chisel grind and I know that some hate it. I'd like to know what you guys think, for this application.
 
i make chisel grind knives and i like them better compared to the hollow grind customs that i have. i used to make full convex grind blades back in the early 90's but when i got back into making knives last year i started making chisel grind knives. i put a half convex edge on them which makes for some wicked edges. i just made a knife for a friend here in town and its wicked sharp. i would have to say its sharper than either of these 2 that i made in these videos. http://www.myculpeper.com/richardj/MLNA0018.AVI
http://www.myculpeper.com/richardj/MLNA0001a.AVI i will post a video of the new knife when i get around to making one. i would go with the d2 also unless you want something more corrosion resistant.
 
I like 440C for the overall abuse it can take plus the ability to quickly put a nice edge on in the field. I can't comment on the scandi vs chisel grind.
 
i personally find a chisel ground knife hard to control when cutting wood unless its on something that is easy to control the angle on, like a chisel or plane blade.

i would personally go convex or scandi for a field knife, and save the chisel for the dedicated woodworking tools that put all of the force right behind the edge and allow two handed control of the edge.
 
I just bought one of richard j's knives recently.
It has the "half-convex" edge (convex grind on one side.)
It is WICKED sharp for a fairly thick knife.
It should also be a durable edge, although I haven't abused it enough to know for sure.
I have not noticed any problems controlling the knife when cutting.

I guess it really depends on what you plan to do with the knife. You mentioned an 8 inch blade. That indicates to me that you might be doing some chopping with it. I don't think a Scandi edge would hold up as well for chaping as a convex edge or half-convex.

Good Luck!
 
I have a chisel-ground machete made by G. Sakai (a Japanese production knife). They sell it as either "right-hand" or "left-hand" - i.e. chisel grind on one side, or the other side.

Being right-handed, I got the RH. Anyway, they really mean what they say. I've used it a lot in the 'bush,' - the thing is great in one direction, but hardly cuts if I switch hands or switch directions.

To be specific, say your chopping a 2" sapling (trunk is vertical). If I swing down (with my RH) on the R side of the sapling, I can cleave through it it one shot. But if approach from the L side (in either hand), it takes 4 or 5 whacks. Its all about the angle. Just like a regular wood chisel - it cuts totally different depending on whether the flat side faces the work, or faces out.

Anyway, I could go on, but you get the picture.
 
when you say left-handed chisel grind, you mean that the grind is on the left of the blade? so if you're holding a left handed chisel ground knife in your left hand, the ground side in on the side away from you and what you see (the side "closest" to you) is the flat side?
 
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Ok, so now I'm really confused. I thought chisel grind WAS scandi, but apparently not based on this thread. Can someone help me understand the shape of the chisel, scandi, and half convex grinds?

Phil Millam
Winthrop WA
 
phil. if you have seen wood chisels you will notice the chisel is ground on the top side while the bottom is flat. its more or less just a wedge. when i put the edge on i have slack in my belt that allows me to push down on the blade edge and have the belt curve up around the blade. since i only have one side of the blade tapered, i only sharpen this side which gives the blade a half convex. to better explain this i have pictures showing what i mean which i plan on posting at my website for anyone interested to check out. i will try to do this tonight after i take a few more pictures.
 
Thanks, the pictures explain it for me!! So I gather a Scandi is just an edge that has a shorter than usual flat grind.
 
Juramentado, I'm looking at my RH chopper now. It's just like a wood chisel. That is, when swung as described in my last post, the flat side faces the sapling, and the bevel side faces out. (Of course, a wood chisel is often used 'backwards' - i.e. bevel facing the work, flat facing out, to give a less-aggressive cut).

In other words, if I hold the knife straight out in front of me (tip away from me, handle towards me), the grind is on the right side, as I see it.

I think you got it correct, the way you described it above.
 
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