Rediculous first project and some questions: Ball peen hammer into a gutter adze

[Last Visible Canary]

So I've been looking for quality Adze's for a few days and really it comes down to the GB small gutter adze (From 'fine tools'):

for 300$ or equally or even more costly alternatives in the hand forged catagory. The rest of them (ox head, pfeil, muellers biber classic) are cast and still kind of costly. The alternative style: (from rock island)

with the tied on blade really isn't that much cheaper.

So I'm considering trying to forge one out of a ball peen hammer or file. I've going to my girlfriends parents to help them with a yard sale in new mexico, and he has a propane/coal forge that I could use and a basic blacksmiths set up. I'm thinking of trying to do a curved 2" kestrel style head, a flat kestrel style head (basically a chisel with mounting notches), and then two of the same but with a tang built for a long handle to create a gouge. If I have enough time, I'll try to make a GB style gutter adze.

So heres my questions, pretty broad ones at that.
1: For the GB style I'd be looking for used 16 and 32 ounce ball peen hammers at our used tool store here in tucson (Kent's tools). Are there any brands I should avoid? Any to look for?
2: What could I do as a basic heat treat utilizing a bucket of water, a coal/propane forge, and possibly a laser thermometer and a stop watch could I do? They are going to be impact tools, but I'd like them to be somewhere in the 57rc range.
3: If I fail at the GB style or have extra time and go for the kestrel tie on style, what kinds of tools could I use to cut down on hammer time, would files work?
4: Given the tool choice from question 3, what kind of heat treat could I do (same question as in number 2)?

 

[Carcara]

Tried making an ax out of an old ball pein hammer once, don't recall the brand but it shattered into pieces in the quench. Got an adze I made from auto leaf spring still use it on occasion. I see Kestrel sells laser cut adze blanks with heat treating instructions, although you you could just buy a bar of 1095 steel like they use or
3/16th tool steel bar stock from one of the knife steel suppliers. I would read the stickies on heat treating.
If you must use scrounged material an automotive spring shop might just give you their scrap leaf spring cut offs which you could verify if it is 5160 or some other alloy. As I recall from an old Kestrel tool catalog before the days of the internet they use to trade human hair for use in ceremonial masks for tools...

 

[Last Visible Canary]

It was silly not to read the stickies first. I'll go through them all in the next 3 days before I leave, and I'll probably see about getting some springs locally as well. And I'll post the results when I get home

 

[Last Visible Canary]

A more specific question not found in the faq's, what is the benefit of the various grinds on straight or gutter adze? I've seen all three variations, with the bevel on the outside (GB) which i understand because it's like a chisel, ground on the inside of the curve, and ground on both sides.

an example of one thats ground on both sides:

from:
http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/7822/Who-uses-adzes-Let-s-see-them?page=1#.UGj-Q3bfTIU

 

[Britt_Askew]

I bought a bowl adz a couple years ago from a NC blacksmith that sells on ebay, I think his ebay name was jackruss ? It was made from a hammer and if I remember right it cost 75.00. I was very happy with it

 

[Carcara]

Bevel up or down on woodworking tools is to allow the tool to conform to the curve of the hollow you are trying to form. Tools where the bevel is against the wood can carve a deep, small radiused curve. If you are trying to carve a long flat surface, a adze with the bevel away from the wood is the way to go, since it cuts shallow chips at a time.

 

[Last Visible Canary]

Bevel up or down on woodworking tools is to allow the tool to conform to the curve of the hollow you are trying to form. Tools where the bevel is against the wood can carve a deep, small radiused curve. If you are trying to carve a long flat surface, a adze with the bevel away from the wood is the way to go, since it cuts shallow chips at a time.

Awesome knowledge, thanks!

 

[Loosearrow]

A more specific question not found in the faq's, what is the benefit of the various grinds on straight or gutter adze? I've seen all three variations, with the bevel on the outside (GB) which i understand because it's like a chisel, ground on the inside of the curve, and ground on both sides.

an example of one thats ground on both sides:

from:
http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/7822/Who-uses-adzes-Let-s-see-them?page=1#.UGj-Q3bfTIU

Your tool looks like the scraper I made to braintan deer hides with.