Reeder products Grinder

Vask79,

Have you received the Reeder yet? Any opinions? Where did you pick up the motor and VFD? Mind sharing what you paid?

I've got one and I really like it.
Ginder $500- http://reederproducts.com/products/belt-sander
Wheels $140- https://www.knifegrinderparts.com/c...eel-set-5-drive-5-8-4-tracking-2-idler-wheels
Motor $206- http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-hp-electr...204806?hash=item440404e146:g:hl4AAOSww9xZEhy6
VFD $125- http://www.ebay.com/itm/361155386082?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

$971 for a great setup!

I already had most of the stuff from my DIY grinder but my brothers set theirs up with the above items and they run great. I did add a 7'' drive wheel, I'm running around 6300 SFPM

Here is mine-
IMG_4932_zpsvudo9nhf.jpg
 
I have no experience with this reader machine but have a Coote that I purchased 20 years ago and other than replacing bearings and finally just two months ago having to replace the top wheel assemble because the spindle & wheel were worn and it made the top scream.. I have nothing but great things to say about this machine and Norman Coote.. I also have a Wilmont that goes horizontal and a Hardcore Products grinder that made out of Aluminum and it is the smoothest, quietist 2 x 72 on the market!!
 
If anyone cares about my opinion on grinder designs here's mine: I think all grinders should have a second tool arm slot for any rest one might want to add in the future. This is most important to me and both my grinders have one. Second, I think that the spring setups I have seen on most grinders will get old and sloppy as has happened to me. The cure is a gas piston or a ratcheting tension adjustment. Third, for me the weight of steel tool arms at 13.5 lbs on my first grinder was too much with 10 and 14 inch wheels for myself to handle every day so I made aluminum tool arms at about 3 lbs each and took a load off. Most of us know that aluminum can gall when mated to another piece of aluminum or even some stainless steel. I have used aluminum tool arms for several years sliding into steel slots with no trouble. The aluminum rests I have made usually have steel inserts for fasteners and I am now changing all the rest tops to steel because of scratching and friction when grinding. As always, I must say that these musings are my opinion only and not to be construed as absolute fact. Larry

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I've got one and I really like it.
Ginder $500- http://reederproducts.com/products/belt-sander
Wheels $140- https://www.knifegrinderparts.com/c...eel-set-5-drive-5-8-4-tracking-2-idler-wheels
Motor $206- http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-hp-electr...204806?hash=item440404e146:g:hl4AAOSww9xZEhy6
VFD $125- http://www.ebay.com/itm/361155386082?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

$971 for a great setup!

I already had most of the stuff from my DIY grinder but my brothers set theirs up with the above items and they run great. I did add a 7'' drive wheel, I'm running around 6300 SFPM

Here is mine-
IMG_4932_zpsvudo9nhf.jpg
I like that stand!
 
Don't forget direct drive, Larry, which probably goes without saying. There's good reason the most popular grinders, not to mention the newer models out use direct drive.
That's not to say the geared grinders are useless. You can still make great knives with the step gears, but direct drive with a vfd is sooooo much better.
 
Don't forget direct drive, Larry, which probably goes without saying. There's good reason the most popular grinders, not to mention the newer models out use direct drive.
That's not to say the geared grinders are useless. You can still make great knives with the step gears, but direct drive with a vfd is sooooo much better.
Josh, You are sooooo correct on this. Even if a guy has a belt driven machine he will be light years ahead with a variable frequency device ( VFD) . How can you use finer and finer grits without slowing your speed to avoid excessive heat and its problems? Direct drive should be a must also but I would suggest that it is better to use a 1725 RPM motor which is a four pole motor and double the speed with your VFD than use a 3450 RPM motor which is a two pole motor. I actually use a 2 HP 3450 RPM Leeson motor on my horizontal grinder but it is set up with a Travis Wuertz surface grinder attachment and runs at full speed all the time even though it is wired to a KBAC VFD. That is my exception. Again, my opinions only. Larry

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That is a SUPER cool stand!

Funny, I actually just finished designing and spec'ed out my new grinder that is very similar to the Reeder. And then I came across one. If you are buying vs building, I would say the Reeder is about the best deal around. I wish I could drop $1k+ on a grinder. Unfortunately, that is simply not reality. That said, I thank my Lord for the ability to build the things I need
It will cost me about $140 to build the frame w/flat platen, from 7075 T6 billet. Wheels for $110. And motor/vfd or step pulleys around $300-$400. Even this amount is a stretch for me.

I do like the Reeder though. I guess that is why I designed one very similar, without seeing it. Good stuff!
 
Bringing an old thread back to life. Been looking and thinking of a 2x72 for some time. My 1x30 just wasn't cutting it. Yesterday I pulled the trigger and ordered a Reeder grinder. Looked at many and ever thought about building one. But by the time you add everything up they come out about the same. Hoping to have it within a week.
 
I ended up buying a grinder. I have my new Reeder grinder up and running. Man this thing is great. Haven't had a chance to use it on a blade yet but I did bevel a piece of scrap. I can't believe how much time it cut from the old 1x30. I have used it for bolster material and a few other things. I just love it. The one pic I didn't move the work rest into the right position for the large contact wheel. The folks at Reeder especially Greg are great to work with. E-mails and phone are always answered within hours. I'd post some pics but can't seam to figure it out.
 
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