Refining my grinding - Finishing

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Jan 10, 2015
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I have been doing a lot of hand sanding this week, and today I got tired of chasing 220 grit scratches, dips, and worse sometimes.
So I took my Gyuto which still had about a .025 edge on it back to the grinder.
I went back to a slightly worn 120 Cubitron II and did my best to make a flat even grind all the way down both sides. Worked out pretty well.
Then to 220, same goal. Did well with that.
Then I put on a 45 Trizact and did some work with that. I am of the school of the fairly light grind, something like the Silverman grind video so masterfully demonstrates.
I've been using what I call the pool que grind on these long Gyuto blades, which is hard to describe, and harder still to keep from wearing your fingers down in places.
But the idea is a long slow pull of the blade lightly across the belt from tip to heal. Also, as I get to 220 I am holding the blade at almost a 45 deg with tip down. This helps show flaws from the previous belt, and also helps with stability in keeping things flat.
I bounced back and forth a bit between that 45 belt and a 400 belt, which helped to show up the flaws of the higher heavier grit grind.
Finally satisfied, I ended up at 600 grit for kicks, and was fairly pleased with the result. This showed me there are still some flaws, but they are fairly light in the steel, which means a bit less hand sanding work.

So in the end I am kind of settling on a progression of:
50 Cubitron II
120 Cubitron II
220
and I think 400. If someone has a great 400 grit belt they'd recommend I'd be thankful.

A couple of side lessons learned:
I was working that 45 trizact belt way too long and the way I found out was at one point, when presenting the blade to the belt, I fumbled it a little. That blade cut the belt in half and bounced back and hit my chest.
I don't use a work rest, and I am pretty glad at this point about that. I think because of this it couldn't get much bounce and didn't hit me hard at all. Could have gone a number of different ways though, and has me thinking about that leather apron pretty seriously.
A note on 220 gator belts, they are pretty punishing on fingers that touch the edge. :|

Just thought I'd throw all this out for discussion as it was a fairly enlightening grinding session, and I think it will improve my speed and finish.

Here are a few photos of the blade at 600. I wasn't going for a finished blade so wasn't too worried about small flaws.
I should also say that my goal in the end is a 1000 grit hand pulled (pushed actually) finish.

600finish1.jpg


600finish2.jpg
 
I have been thinking of this also as I'm sick and tired of hand sanding for 2-3 hours. I usually stop at 220 on the grinder and go to 220 paper by hand. Problem is I chase 50 grit scratches for an hour. I have just recently bought a file guide so I feel better going up to higher grits and not washing out my plunges. I stop at 600 hand sanding but if I could get higher finishes off the grinder then I would go higher with the hand sanding. It's not as big of a deal with smaller knives but on an 8" gyuto it takes a while. Thanks for posting your process.
 
I have been thinking of this also as I'm sick and tired of hand sanding for 2-3 hours. I usually stop at 220 on the grinder and go to 220 paper by hand. Problem is I chase 50 grit scratches for an hour. I have just recently bought a file guide so I feel better going up to higher grits and not washing out my plunges. I stop at 600 hand sanding but if I could get higher finishes off the grinder then I would go higher with the hand sanding. It's not as big of a deal with smaller knives but on an 8" gyuto it takes a while. Thanks for posting your process.

220 on the grinder, then 220 by hand (or 150 if I didn't do a great job). Same.
I use the Riverside file guides and love them. I start with them and almost never go to the grinder without them. I'm just starting to feel comfortable enough to hit it without them on the higher grits, but am very careful at the plunge.
I just got one of Nathan's 10 inch long end radius platens, and want to try a plunge lengthwise with that.
For the last couple of months I've used nothing but Nathan's 8 inch end radius platen and love it. I was using the Esteem stock platen with glass. I can't see that I'll ever go back to that.
This is maybe a bit more expensive, but I love that hardened steel instead of glass.
I've just started doing a bit of lengthwise grinding, and even used that a bit on this blade. It really shows any pockets or dips on your grind and helps you see them so you can take them out.
Thanks Matt
 
I use a file guide and a disc grinder quite a bit. Took a blade yesterday to 2000 to develop a quench kind with no hand sanding!
 
I've been trying to refine my progression for long knives as well. I also go 50-60 grit intially then 120 Cubitron. I then find that an A300 then A160 gator gets the cubitron scratches out pretty well. I've been going to the disc sander for 220 and 320 grit work because it helps flatten the grinder goofs. I will also do a combo of length wise grinding and sanding on a granite plate to refine things before going to hand sanding.
 
New knifemaker here, I'm on my 5th. Post HT I grind on 50 then 120. I just got many different belts to try from Tru-Grit and was finishing a gyuto. After the 120 I did one side Gator 160>100>65 and the other side Norax 100>65>45. Both sides looked good and about the same. I then took the knife to my 800 grit King stone and put it flat against it after building up some mud destroying the finish. The king is good at putting a kasumi finish so you can see the highs and lows on your grind.
 
For working kitchen knives, what I'm doing now is getting the bevel fairly done with the 60, then 120, then usually 100m gator and straight to a 45 gator or trizact, just smoothing things out, not worrying too much about removing previous scratches.
Then, the disk with Indasa 320 and Windex and I get pretty serious about removing every trace of the 60/120 scratches that go across the blade. After that, it's really not much time hand sanding with 320, like ten minutes or less a side, lastly the straight pulls with a leather pad between paper and tool. I'm not going for the ultimate poochy finish, but it is nice and consistent.
I dunno, works for me, and I can get the knives out the door.
 
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