Refinishing/ sharpening

razor-edge-knives said:
Yeah... It works fine (diamond stones cut it no problem) it's just that it takes FOREVER since it's so thickly ground and with such a long blade, and I don't even want to think about reprofiling lol
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Makes sense. I bought the 50/80 Grit Diamond stones specifically for the Busses. I'm still debating what I want to do with my FMV14. I know those are going to take a lot of time. I have the Ken Onion Worksharp, but I don't know if that's up to the task either.
 
tokerblue said:
Makes sense. I bought the 50/80 Grit Diamond stones specifically for the Busses. I'm still debating what I want to do with my FMV14. I know those are going to take a lot of time. I have the Ken Onion Worksharp, but I don't know if that's up to the task either.
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Worksharp is up to it, but I like a little more freedom to move my blade.

I've heard a few guys complain about boogering up their tips when they get to the end of their draw out of the machine.

Plus the primary grind on the FMv14 is a little different and thick with that central ridge-- I'm not sure how that'd feed into that guide and interface with the sanding belt.

I've used my harbor freight 1 x 30 belt sander to pretty good effect. I can't make my jobs look professional like Josh, but it's ok for beaters.

But for major regrinds/reprofiles or blades I want to look nice, I leave it to the pros.

I orient mine like this for edge-trailing grinding, with my bright light overhead it's really easy to see when I'm raising/chasing my burr :thumbsup::

mlYFttR.jpg
 
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resinguy said:
Petey, do you clamp that down in some way?
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It's base is pinched in the Workmate. I've considered mounting a piece of plywood onto the bottom to get a little more purchase, but it's adequate as is as long as I'm not trying to hog off a ton of INFI.

I'm just using it for powerstopping long blades and chasing burrs to lightly hit the apex and refine sharpness. Very, very light touch.
 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
Just trying to take the bombproof tip on my HG55, from this <bottom blade>:
323x5Hb.jpg


to this <approx 40 deg. inclusive>:
2RAQKB9.jpg


It sucked a few hours of my life down the grinding rabbit hole using a DMT diafold. :eek:

It's the type of exercise in futility your Dad would term "character building." ;):rolleyes:
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It's Tha' Motha' Lankin' Bomb Proof HG55!!! MLBPHG55!!! I need to do a very little edge work on mine, too! It is actually very sharp factory wise at the edge, it just needs a little TLC....

I use Edge Pro Grinder attachment to good effect, and recently got the leather strop belt as well for it. I overcharged it with compound, initially and I am sanding some off the next time I get it out to see what it can really do!

C
 
COPIUOS said:
It's Tha' Motha' Lankin' Bomb Proof HG55!!! MLBPHG55!!! I need to do a very little edge work on mine, too! It is actually very sharp factory wise at the edge, it just needs a little TLC....

I use Edge Pro Grinder attachment to good effect, and recently got the leather strop belt as well for it. I overcharged it with compound, initially and I am sanding some off the next time I get it out to see what it can really do!

C
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Believe THAT!

That tip was not only bomb-proof-- it was damn near grind proof < for my sorry azz, at least :oops: >.

fairly obtuse and obstinate:

fGS41O4.jpg


As for the rest of the blade, it was a sweetheart to reprofile...I love the way the vertical CBT look when you grind into them...sublime :cool:

Wsmf3yC.jpg
 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
Believe THAT!

That tip was not only bomb-proof-- it was damn near grind proof < for my sorry azz, at least :oops: >.

fairly obtuse and obstinate:

fGS41O4.jpg


As for the rest of the blade, it was a sweetheart to reprofile...I love the way the vertical CBT look when you grind into them...sublime :cool:

Wsmf3yC.jpg
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Indeed on the "look" aspect - "Killer Cool!!!" is a good way to describe it!!! Great stuff.
 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
Worksharp is up to it, but I like a little more freedom to move my blade.

I've heard a few guys complain about boogering up their tips when they get to the end of their draw out of the machine.

Plus the primary grind on the FMv14 is a little different and thick with that central ridge-- I'm not sure how that'd feed into that guide and interface with the sanding belt.

I've used my harbor freight 1 x 30 belt sander to pretty good effect. I can't make my jobs look professional like Josh, but it's ok for beaters.

But for major regrinds/reprofiles or blades I want to look nice, I leave it to the pros.

I orient mine like this for edge-trailing grinding, with my bright light overhead it's really easy to see when I'm raising/chasing my burr :thumbsup::

mlYFttR.jpg
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What grit or grits of belt do you use for that job?
 
FAL'ER said:
What grit or grits of belt do you use for that job?
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Currently it has a leather strop on it, you can probably see. With some white compound loaded on it. Every now & then I condition/clean the strop with a bar of Ivory bar soap.

It's the belt I find myself reaching for most so I just leave it mounted-- it tends to stretch it out a bit...but it's okay because I mainly have convexxed edges plus I'm kinda lazy to take it off anyways.

As for abrasive belts, I've never used anything more coarse than 600, nor fine than 1000 grit. And that is just for knocking the shoulders down on the secondary bevel-- no serious grinding on the primary.

If you're thinking of getting one, get a good light overhead, use a very light touch, be careful not to overheat the edge and especially the tip where there's not a lot of steel to act as a heat sink.

Anything that requires a serious reprofile hogging off more than that, then I just send it to a pro.

And I mainly only use it on large-ish fixed blades that don't fit in WE jaws well or are too long to draw across my SharpMaker rods efficiently.

Folders and small fixed blades get secondary bevels reset <when needed> on WE and maintained on SharpMaker and Spyderco Benchstones plus KnivesPlus stroblock with green compound.

hope this helped :)

if you were asking about a WorkSharp-- I don't have one but one of my local friends does.
 
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Naw, I was asking about the 1 x 30, I've got one I used to use for making knife handle scales, but only have the belts in wood working grits. My finest is 320 grit right now, too course. Thank you for the detailed response.
 
WatermanChris said:
If there is edge damage that you are uncomfortable sharpening out, they will fix it. As Andy said, Garth is your man. Great guy!

He even re-etched the BUSSE logo on my stripped Battle Saw while it was being sharpened. It is razor sharp too after its trip to the mothership.
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Are we allowed to contact him directly or do we need to go through the mothership?
 
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Harbor freight 1x30 for the win.

I did this with a ceramic 60 grit belt, then a 220 grit belt then a 15 micron belt.

The key, and this is important, is to go slow, use a sharpie marker to show where you're taking material off, have a container of water near you that you can dunk the blade into to avoid overheating in an emergency, and most importantly...

PRACTICE ON LESS EXPENSIVE KNIVES UNTIL YOU GET COMFORTABLE WITH USING THE TOOL PROPERLY.
 
So here at the shop refinishing and resharpening are 2 different things. 1 is available and 1 is not.

We will resharpen any Busse or Busse Kin blade at no charge other than return shipping. If you are in need of a resharpen then just contact Amy and she can give you the details. Best way to reach her is amy@bussecombat.com. Or you can email me at garth@bussecombat.com. Amy is more likely to answer you sooner as I am sitting in front of a grinder most of the day and usually only check emails once a day whereas Amy is constantly checking hers throughout the day.

Refinishing is a Custom Shop operation and the Custom Shop is closed for the time being. Recoating, stripping coating, double cutting, competition finishing or satin finishing is considered refinishing so therefore not available at this time.

Hope that helps clear things up a bit.

Garth
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
Harbor freight 1x30 for the win.

I did this with a ceramic 60 grit belt, then a 220 grit belt then a 15 micron belt.

The key, and this is important, is to go slow, use a sharpie marker to show where you're taking material off, have a container of water near you that you can dunk the blade into to avoid overheating in an emergency, and most importantly...

PRACTICE ON LESS EXPENSIVE KNIVES UNTIL YOU GET COMFORTABLE WITH USING THE TOOL PROPERLY.
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What he said. :thumbsup:
 
I've had zero issues with that when I dont wear gloves.

Gotta bear hand it to feel if it's getting cooked. Use fresh, clean belts too.
 
There was another guy here and FB doing mods/stripping that could probably help you out but I can't find him currently. Beautiful work though.. I'll keep looking for his name..
 
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